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Jarred_Jackman

Yocum...Scary 2/11/04

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Well, six people including myself attempted Yocum yesterday, needless to say none made it very far. The weather was warm, the rime was dry and crumbly as only rime seems to be, and the first gendarme was downright scary. Anyhow, I think Tim and Karsten might have a better story regarding retreat, their's took a little while.

 

All, in all, a great day on Hood, beautiful morning, and great snow conditions for routes like the Sandy and Leuthold's.

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Yes a fine day in the hills! Seems like a doable route in more consolidated conditions...very looooooong.

 

Pics from 2/11/04

 

Crackman makes a desperate attempt on the first Gendarme

 

2182Hood_Yocum_Crackman_1-med.jpg

 

2182Hood_Yocum_Crackman_2-med.jpg

 

CC asault team in retreat

 

2182Hood_Yocum_CC_Retreat-med.jpg

 

Tex looks for another way up

 

2182Hood_Yocum_Tex_1-med.jpg

 

2182Hood_Yocum_Tex_2-med.jpg

 

Back on the Reid

 

2182Hood_Yocum_Gendarmes-med.jpg

 

The skiing sucked on Palmer on the way back down but all in all it was lots of fun! Tons of people up there yesterday for a weekday.

 

bigdrink.gif

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the funniest one is of the runner coming straight out a pile of rime. sucker's truckstop for sure haha

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Actually that was right off the belay and there was some sort of homemade bolt on that rock! cantfocus.gif It was a little questionable...so on the rap we backed if up with a slung flake. On a side note none of us brought rock gear but it probably would have been a good idea if we had continued.

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After attempting G#1 direct, Tex and I decided to try and go around it. The climbing was a lot of fun, definitely engaging and constantly varied: hard gully ice, dry unconsolidated snow, exposed rock, neve, you name it. I’m not certain, but I think we traversed much higher than the route shown in Oregon high because we ended up back on top of the ridge at the base of G#2. Continuing on looked extremely difficult, due to the soft snow and things warming up considerably, now that the ridge was in full sun. Party over. We decided it was time for us to bail. A full double rope rap off a horn, followed by downclimbing and another short rap got us down safely.

 

I would sure like to return when the conditions are better. With firmer snow and ice this would be an incredible route. The big mistake was not bringing any rock pro, assuming everything would fully covered. Sure could have used it in some key places. Guess that’s what I get for judging route conditions from Portland.

 

I’ll post a few more picks, when I get some time.

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in addition to the lack of rock gear, i must complain that, given that we're all cc.com-ers, there was a appalling shortage of beer...would have been nice at the first gendarme cluster-fuck

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Climbing without beer???? hellno3d.gif

 

Nice work guys... Certainly more exciting then my day at the office thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

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uh, just HOW many of you were up there? starting to sound like a siege

 

we were running w/ your "flavor of the month" idea, iain (and i believe the answer you seek is the first line of the first post)

 

i was amused to discover i wasn't the only teacher on the ridge skipping school

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The weather was warm, the rime was dry and crumbly as only rime seems to be, and the first gendarme was downright scary.

 

 

Ummmmm, Warm rime: (..pause's to check between legs) YES, shrinkage for sure, no question, SEVERE shrinkage. Glad you made it down fine and with nothing hitting you on the way down too - even better.

 

Great pics, thanks for sharing Shred:

 

Bill

Edited by billcoe

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I'd recommend taking a spectre or two and some pins next time you go, regardless of how rimed up you may think it is. What looks like rime may often just be sugar over rock.

 

Not that pins will help either.

 

Sounds like a fun day in the hills fellas.

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I'd recommend taking a spectre or two and some pins next time you go, regardless of how rimed up you may think it is.

at least 2 of our groups had pins (KBs) but there was nothing at the base of the first gendarme that would take them. a smallish cam would have worked in a crack beside that wierd bolt though.

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That's gotta be the scariest climb to ever attain "cc.com flav-o-the-month" status shocked.gif.

 

What could possibly top it?

 

Nice report. Thanks! thumbs_up.gif

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That's gotta be the scariest climb to ever attain "cc.com flav-o-the-month" status shocked.gif

The fact that any climb is "cc.com flav-o-the-month" alone is scary enough. Triple Couloirs at the tail end of primetime last spring was a stimulating day in the hills.

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When I climbed the route, there was absolutely nothing that one could call "solid" anywhere on it. Ice screws in rime and the occasional tiny drip of water ice over snow are a joke, and pickets in rime ice in warm sunshine or buried in colder snow beneath it weren't much better. We could get fairly secure belays by stomping a big hole and sitting in it, though, and actually there was one solid anchor--at the rappel point midway, we chopped down around the top of the pinnacle to be sure our anchor sling was around actual garbage rock rather than simply sunlit rime. It is still a fun climb, though. 'Hope you guys are able to go back and find it in slightly better shape next time.

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That shitty kind of rime is exactly what we found on the entire west ridge portion of the stuart glacier coulior climb last year. THat crap is *scary*. I think half of the time the only reason why I kept going up it was because we had NO other option. tongue.gif

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I think half of the time the only reason why I kept going up it was because we had NO other option. tongue.gif
I seem to find myself in that situation on hood all the time yellaf.gif

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I don't remember which gendarme was which. We went over the first one, if I am not mistaken, then started looking for ways around them. I'm pretty sure we traverssed around the second on the S. Side. For the upper tower, above the notch, we traverssed shortly right to gain a steep gully/chimney and then another bit of traverssing. I believe we counted 16 or 17 pitches.

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