Jump to content

Yocum...Scary 2/11/04


Jarred_Jackman

Recommended Posts

Well, six people including myself attempted Yocum yesterday, needless to say none made it very far. The weather was warm, the rime was dry and crumbly as only rime seems to be, and the first gendarme was downright scary. Anyhow, I think Tim and Karsten might have a better story regarding retreat, their's took a little while.

 

All, in all, a great day on Hood, beautiful morning, and great snow conditions for routes like the Sandy and Leuthold's.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 25
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

After attempting G#1 direct, Tex and I decided to try and go around it. The climbing was a lot of fun, definitely engaging and constantly varied: hard gully ice, dry unconsolidated snow, exposed rock, neve, you name it. I’m not certain, but I think we traversed much higher than the route shown in Oregon high because we ended up back on top of the ridge at the base of G#2. Continuing on looked extremely difficult, due to the soft snow and things warming up considerably, now that the ridge was in full sun. Party over. We decided it was time for us to bail. A full double rope rap off a horn, followed by downclimbing and another short rap got us down safely.

 

I would sure like to return when the conditions are better. With firmer snow and ice this would be an incredible route. The big mistake was not bringing any rock pro, assuming everything would fully covered. Sure could have used it in some key places. Guess that’s what I get for judging route conditions from Portland.

 

I’ll post a few more picks, when I get some time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

uh, just HOW many of you were up there? starting to sound like a siege

 

we were running w/ your "flavor of the month" idea, iain (and i believe the answer you seek is the first line of the first post)

 

i was amused to discover i wasn't the only teacher on the ridge skipping school

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The weather was warm, the rime was dry and crumbly as only rime seems to be, and the first gendarme was downright scary.

 

 

Ummmmm, Warm rime: (..pause's to check between legs) YES, shrinkage for sure, no question, SEVERE shrinkage. Glad you made it down fine and with nothing hitting you on the way down too - even better.

 

Great pics, thanks for sharing Shred:

 

Bill

Edited by billcoe
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd recommend taking a spectre or two and some pins next time you go, regardless of how rimed up you may think it is.

at least 2 of our groups had pins (KBs) but there was nothing at the base of the first gendarme that would take them. a smallish cam would have worked in a crack beside that wierd bolt though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I climbed the route, there was absolutely nothing that one could call "solid" anywhere on it. Ice screws in rime and the occasional tiny drip of water ice over snow are a joke, and pickets in rime ice in warm sunshine or buried in colder snow beneath it weren't much better. We could get fairly secure belays by stomping a big hole and sitting in it, though, and actually there was one solid anchor--at the rappel point midway, we chopped down around the top of the pinnacle to be sure our anchor sling was around actual garbage rock rather than simply sunlit rime. It is still a fun climb, though. 'Hope you guys are able to go back and find it in slightly better shape next time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't remember which gendarme was which. We went over the first one, if I am not mistaken, then started looking for ways around them. I'm pretty sure we traverssed around the second on the S. Side. For the upper tower, above the notch, we traverssed shortly right to gain a steep gully/chimney and then another bit of traverssing. I believe we counted 16 or 17 pitches.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...