erden Posted May 3, 2002 Share Posted May 3, 2002 Does anyone have recent beta on this route? I have the Meyers "Yosemite Climbs" book with the yellow cover and that is quite dated. In that book, the route is rated as 5.10 A3+ with fixed bolts (rivets?). I wonder if the bolts are still there, or have been replaced/enhanced, how the per pitch ratings been affected over the years... Any other useful info would be nice. I am planning to leave the bolt kit at home. Once I get to the valley, I will grab the latest guide as well, that may make a difference!!! Erden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 4, 2002 Share Posted May 4, 2002 i think there have been some free climbing atemps on it in recent years, so it probably has good anchors and fixed gear, you never know though... lots o chimneys! e-mail Chris Mac, he should have the beta. and he likes to help folks out with that kinda stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erden Posted May 4, 2002 Author Share Posted May 4, 2002 Thanks Lambone. I found a copy of Reid's guidebook that I was able to browse briefly. That one is newer version... Reid says that the route goes free at 13c/d. If so, I think you may be right that the rivets would have been replaced by bolts, and anchors reinforced. I am no 5.13 climber, so I still have to find out if I can progress on that route with clean aid, now that it goes free. I did do the Regular NW Face a while ago and I do remember that particular route with plenty of chimney pitches leading up to the Sandy Ledges. I will email Chris as you suggest. Erden. [ 05-03-2002, 06:33 PM: Message edited by: erden ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 4, 2002 Share Posted May 4, 2002 I remember reading that on the inernet a while ago, search around for a bit and i bet you'll find it. try the Yosemite Threads in Mountaineering forum good luck dude, have fun, sure looks like a stellar line! straight as an arrow... when are you going down there? [ 05-03-2002, 08:47 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted May 4, 2002 Share Posted May 4, 2002 Well, I haven't done it but I know that the free route varys from the regular aid route. Todd Skinners site has some good photos of the route. Of course he isn't aiding it. From what I have heard it has a way different feel from the regular route up the dome(you likely know that). People have also said tissack is a pretty good route. I think it has lots of bad bolts. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 4, 2002 Share Posted May 4, 2002 Been tryin to encourage the ASCA to redo the bad bolts on Tis-si-ack. I'd be willing to pay for the bolts if someone who knew how to place 'em would be into going up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackhead Posted May 5, 2002 Share Posted May 5, 2002 Get on Supertopos.com Thank you Chris Mcnamera Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 5, 2002 Share Posted May 5, 2002 It'd probably be wise not to discuss such a topic on this forum...there are informants everywhere... BL, alias "Copperhead" is the fella we need to reqruit for such an endevor. He rebolted much of Tangerine Trip reciently. He'll go up on half dome for a twelve pack...keep in touch for further planning. this message will self distruct in 30 seconds [ 05-05-2002, 03:37 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 5, 2002 Share Posted May 5, 2002 p.s. - good luck down there! half the battel is getting on the route, the rest is just going through the motions! I hope yoget stellar weather! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erden Posted May 6, 2002 Author Share Posted May 6, 2002 Thank you all for the encouragement. I will be in the Valley May 14-22. A bit early in the season - it will be cool and the weather iffy at times. I will play it by ear. If not this time, I want to go back in September for another try... I did go to Supertopos but did not see that Chris assembled a pdf for HD Direct NW Face; the route is not listed among the betas. I posted a similar topic on the Supertopos forum, and a gentleman there pointed me to Google.com (DUH!!!). When I did that, a few references popped up. Yes, they do refer to the free line being a bit different than the aid line. Also there were references to bringing a couple RURPs and a hammer in case the end of pitch 11 is missing the resident RURPs. There is reference to the quality of the Grand Terrace bivy on top of pitch 12 which is about half way in the # of pitches and in labor. One trip report referenced the horror stories that since the HD Direct NW Face route gains the Big Sandy Ledges on climber's right and is less traveled, it's supposed to be the dumping grounds from the Big Sandy. I guess since the Regular route gains the BSL from the climber's left and is more heavily traveled, people think that if they dump their garbage down the other side, it is better. So these guys were climbing up, imagining pulling down on turd mounds, and shimmying up offwidths lined with doo. It was not that bad, after all, so they say. Makes me think twice ;-p But everyone uses poop tubes now and use pee bottles right? ;-) Erden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erden Posted May 6, 2002 Author Share Posted May 6, 2002 Lambone: I would be happy to go on a Tis-sa-ack bolt refurbishment expedition. I have not placed a bolt ever, but it is not rocket science; we can practice on junk rock beforehand and head up... Erden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 6, 2002 Share Posted May 6, 2002 Scott Cosgrove sez Skinner didnt free the route... Skinner dynoed for long slings hanging down from a bolted belay stance... and the belay wasnt a no hands rest... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted May 6, 2002 Share Posted May 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erden: I will be in the Valley May 14-22. A bit early in the season - it will be cool and the weather iffy at times In my opinion, May is THE time to be there. Yes, the weather is not as stable as later in the year, but it sure is beautiful to have the waterfalls in full force and flowers blooming in the valley, and the days are much longer than the nights. Having said that, I did get snowed off Halfdome Direct a number of years ago... Have fun and say hello to Mike Shaeffer. [ 05-06-2002, 10:42 AM: Message edited by: mattp ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted May 6, 2002 Share Posted May 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by mattp: In my opinion, May is THE time to be there. Yes, the weather is not as stable as later in the year, but it sure is beautiful to have the waterfalls in full force and flowers blooming in the valley, and the days are much longer than the nights. Having said that, I did get snowed off Halfdome Direct a number of years ago... Have fun and say hello to Mike Shaeffer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 6, 2002 Share Posted May 6, 2002 Yeah, mays great... I've had good luck with weather on Spring Break in March also. NO ONE is around in March! All the park employees are actually freindly and exited to see you! There were three tents total in camp 4 when we were there this year. Experienced snow and 70 degree weather within two days! The thundering of icefall was also a nice bonus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downhill Posted May 7, 2002 Share Posted May 7, 2002 a great route.take some pins,a few knife blades, baby angles,and 3/4" angles.Probably leave the bolts at home.Fix the first 4 pitches off the ground due to difficult hauling thru the crescent crack.The crack to the left of the of the original first pitch is a better option.also the pitch leading to big sandy ledge is unpleasent but easy. Just cruise thru holding your nose and take some handy wipes.Great camping at the base of the route with spring water a few feet away.Also take the direct approch to the NW face,a much better way to go.Have a great adventure,this can be a good time to do the route.Regards,D.B.,NOT DOWNHILL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted May 7, 2002 Share Posted May 7, 2002 the Regular NW face goes hammerless, and has for decades. Most of it goes free at a moderate level. Forget about hauling and have the second jumar with a pack. It's quite reasonable to blast to the sandy ledges, so you can also avoid fixing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 7, 2002 Share Posted May 7, 2002 Um dude, we are talking about the Direct, not the Regular... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downhill Posted May 7, 2002 Share Posted May 7, 2002 Ok, this time I am Downhill (who gave that DB my password?). Anyway, I'll add my 4 cents to DB's advise.... Bolts & rivets: shouldn't be a problem. even without parties attempting it free, the route gets done enough that everything should be updated well enough. Clean??: I've heard that it goes clean but if any of the fixed pins have been bootied, you're hosed unless you can fidget a widget in to a pin scar - but that won't help you if the RURPS are missing from P-11 as noted above. I'd agree with DB's selection and add a RURP (maybe Todd replaced those with bolts??). Chimneys: The crescent crack is a stuff-fest (fix 4 and haul to the ledge as DB says to avoid this)but those higher (between Grand Terrace and Big Sandy) tend to be more the stemming variety rather than squeeze/stuff affairs. Season: DB and I did it that last week in May and it was perfect. Approach: going up from below through the slabs is much quicker than around but you might want to scout it without bags if unfamiliar (you've done the reg NW so you probably know this). Ledges: Grand Terrace is fine unless you're sharing with too many others - should accomodate 4+. The last pitch or two to Big Sandy had a bit of shit on it but you will probably be able to avoid it - wasn't bad at all and that was before pipe bombs. It's a great line - you can see your bivi site at the base directly between your feet for 20 pitches. Have fun, DH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downhill Posted May 7, 2002 Share Posted May 7, 2002 good point - albeit it's been awhile, there used to be plenty of slower parties on the regular route aiding and taking several days - it all has to go somewhere. Is it okay to shit down a route cause you're free climbing but not okay if aiding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erden Posted May 8, 2002 Author Share Posted May 8, 2002 I will remember to take handy wipes with me, and a fresh shirt to exchange into once I get to the BSL!!! ;-) I am familiar with the Slabs approach as that was how we gained the base of the Regular route way back when. I can't wait to get there. Erden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted May 8, 2002 Share Posted May 8, 2002 erden, torn off shirt sleeves and an extra sock do the tricks fine. Wipe that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 8, 2002 Share Posted May 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Downhill: good point - albeit it's been awhile, there used to be plenty of slower parties on the regular route aiding and taking several days - it all has to go somewhere. Is it okay to shit down a route cause you're free climbing but not okay if aiding? No, I don't think it's justified to toss your shit if your free climbing, especialy onto a route... But I think lots of people do. Most people avoid hauling at ALL costs, and only spend one night on the Regular route. If it were me I hold it Or pack it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 8, 2002 Share Posted May 8, 2002 I don't think most people take pipe bombs up on the regular route... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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