DCramer Posted February 10, 2004 Share Posted February 10, 2004 In a perfect world these would be threads on cc.com: 1 – Freeing of second pitch of Golden Arch. Only a body length to go! 2 – Free the start of 10%. Thin but good pro. Clean and dries fast. 3 – Free Hell Bent For Glory. Only a few hangs need to be eliminated. 4 – Free Bobcat Reality. Faster please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeadSpace Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 nice suggestions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted February 12, 2004 Author Share Posted February 12, 2004 A couple other threads would be Witch Doctor Wall Free A TR about Cerberus @ Squamish A TR about the top pitches of Remorse on SCW A TR about the east face of Gunsight –so I’d know if there really was a huge rockfall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 I ended up doing a Remorse finish to Outer Space at the end of a 3-in-a-day a few years back because of a major traffic jam at the base of pitch 5. Angling up and right from the bottom of the Shield, fairly easy climbing got us to a ledge where we saw a couple of bolts heading up and back left. The moves were thin and dirty, as were the bolts. The pitch ended at the start of 4th class terrain that traversed up and over to the top of Outer Space. Adventure climbing at it's finest. The name is apropriate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 New Sky valley 5.13a freed: slab is back in style! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 In a perfect world these would be threads on cc.com: 1 ? Freeing of second pitch of Golden Arch. Only a body length to go! 2 ? Free the start of 10%. Thin but good pro. Clean and dries fast. 3 ? Free Hell Bent For Glory. Only a few hangs need to be eliminated. 4 ? Free Bobcat Reality. Faster please! 5 - Directions and Topos to Secret Crags. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 Crag X directions Turn L. 10 mi. E. of Startup Go NE. 3/4 mi. Make first L. (river crossing) The walls should be visible from this spot. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted February 13, 2004 Author Share Posted February 13, 2004 Shhh! Lance you are giving away the secrets of the super secret spot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 Personally, I love the fresh bread .... All kidding aside, DC makes a good point with this thread... the climbing community is getting stronger and the remaining "last great problems" can breathe new life into a area that once stood out as one of America's best crags. Town Crier The Golden Arch The Dihedral route The Zipper Hell Bent For Glory Abraxas The Green Dragon Just look at all these prizes, just waiting to be won..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted February 15, 2004 Share Posted February 15, 2004 Bobcat reality..... Another 5 years and I might have a chance. Definitely one of the most insipiring lines I have seen that hasn't had a free ascent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted February 15, 2004 Author Share Posted February 15, 2004 Mike - Don't wait five years! I was 130 when I was 18 and about 145 in my late 20's then 200 in my 30'S now mid 40s 185. Life goes on and waists grow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted February 15, 2004 Share Posted February 15, 2004 145 sounds perfect..... I need another 15 pounds of muscle to pull that thing off. Have you actually tried to lead that thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted February 15, 2004 Share Posted February 15, 2004 I want to see detailed beta on the new routes going up,I'm getting tired of the same old classic choss. Speaking of classic choss, who is holding on to the beta for all that new stuff I here is going up in the Tieton. I heard there is some killer stuff up at south fork, I can't seem to find that crag, I went up that way last fall and got lost ,I road around on old dirt roads for hours. Do the FA dudes surf here? come on give it up , spring is getting close. DICK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertm Posted February 17, 2004 Share Posted February 17, 2004 I could post a TR of the East Face since I was the one to start the E.Face rumour... verification would be welcomed. We started up the East face based on the description in Selected Climbs Vol. II. We found shattered loose rock for two pitches until we were able to traverse left (with 1 rappel) into the steep gully between the main peak and its satellite to the South. I wish I would have taken pictures but since I had very little film (before my digi camera) and it didn't dawn on me that perhaps there had been a rockfall... I didn't. I can tell you that the climb was scary and loose -- that didn't fit the description that was in the book. Once we were able to climb onto the SE Face and the ridge the climbing was great. Here are some pics of the trip. Rounding the southern satellite of Gunsight (Backside of the group) Climbing on the exposed Ridge crest (upper part of the E. Face as described in Selected Climbs) Nearing the summit of the main peak (final pitch) If I was to go back there again I would do some FA(s) on the Southern peaks and hit the Nelson route. I didn't bring wide gear so I was not keen on the OW. The backside of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertm Posted February 17, 2004 Share Posted February 17, 2004 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted February 20, 2004 Author Share Posted February 20, 2004 Robertm - Thanks for the beta. Anyone else been up there? Photographs make the place look spectacular. Mike - Haven't ried to lead it. The crack is more of a flake at the start and thin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyf Posted February 21, 2004 Share Posted February 21, 2004 I want to see detailed beta on the new routes going up,I'm getting tired of the same old classic choss. Speaking of classic choss, who is holding on to the beta for all that new stuff I here is going up in the Tieton. I heard there is some killer stuff up at south fork, I can't seem to find that crag, I went up that way last fall and got lost ,I road around on old dirt roads for hours. Do the FA dudes surf here? come on give it up , spring is getting close. DICK South Fork is a pile. You're just as fortunate to have gotten lost. Nothing to see there, move along. Besides, I seem to remember you berating sport routes in the Tieton at one time; something about them not having mindless jugs, like 38 or Vantage... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted February 24, 2004 Share Posted February 24, 2004 Where the hell is bobcat reality? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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