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Selected Climbs, Vol. II

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I've enjoyed the run down from the Lake, too, but the trail from there out to the parking lot can be very challenging with a deep trough down the middle of it and not enough bail-out options if the snow surface is firm or otherwise unfriendly. Anybody who has done many Cascade ski approaches other than some drive-up volcano route should know to expect this, though.

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I think Sysiphus(sp?) on Goat wall should be added, along with some of the newer routes in Darrington.

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Not sure if Gato will ever be a "selected classic" but damn if its not a rollicking fun full value alpine rock experience. The crux pitch alone would be a classic at any area if it were more easily accessible. Hype! Hype!

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Concidering Mt Hardy and eve dearborn route are "selected classics," then I guess unrepeated routes are fair game.

I'm sure it's a great route, however. You should post a photo of the pitch you're talking about!

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As an authority on Black Peak (having climbed it for the first time this week) it seems like the approach information should be modified. The text says "Many climbers find the way in to the mountain somewhat confusing the first time, with most of the routefinding problems encountered on the approach rather than on the climb itself."

I assume they've improved the trail since this was written: it's now impossible to get lost; the trail is very nearly wheelchair accessible up to Heather Pass, and pretty obvious after that.

 

And as a rule, on the driving directions, it'd be nice to have milepost numbers when possible, in addition to descriptions.

 

Thanks for all your hard work, the books are invaluable.

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Concidering Mt Hardy and eve dearborn route are "selected classics," then I guess unrepeated routes are fair game.

I'm sure it's a great route, however. You should post a photo of the pitch you're talking about!

 

Mike; compared to the two routes you mentioned Gato is a veritable trade route now. I personally know of 5 1/2 ascents to date. All of them faster and I'm sure in better style than Larry's and my FA. And now with the new and improved second & third pitches (edited this summer) so you don't have to do the scary 5.8 corner grovel.......well,what can I say.

I personally do not have photos of the crux pitch. We didn't take a camera; light and fast and all that. Besides I was too busy trying to not fall out of it. Anyody else?

 

Jim; Hury and get that book in print. Someone stole my copy and I need another.

 

Scott

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Jim:

I just had another thought form an inclusion into Vol II. W ridge of Paisano below Buragndy Spire. The Red Fred gives a very cursory description and does not do the climb justice. I has about 7 pitches of moderate 5th class rock from 5.6-5.9 on very good rock. Steve H and I trimmed up some of the offending shrubbery a few years ago. Great position. A better route than N Face of Burg. But when combined, these two routes make for a great long day and make the approach much more worthwhile.

I highly recommend it.

Scott

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ditto on what sj said about the w.rig of paisano done it a few times and its cool...mr natural has some pics of it in his gallery

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Sloan Corkscrew - the approach via Sloan Creek had a major avalanche that took out a good half mile of the trail two years ago. Not sure if detour has been cut around it since. If not, be prepared to scramble across loose logs and avalanche debris.

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I'm gonna sound whiney but.....the cover shot is lame

 

Guy doing overhanging rappel in Tatoosh Range. Carrying no gear to speak of, maybe crampons? (don't have it in front of me)

 

Maybe there really is some peak there that requires overhanging rappell to get off of.

 

Maybe he left all his gear at the base and is now returning to it.

 

The impression it leaves however is...staged photo shoot of sport rappeller. Lame. Might look good in REI catalog.

 

There are plenty of good photographs and photographers out there. Use a shot of someone(s) actually climbing, preferrably on something a little grander, maybe even something in the book?!

 

Its 100 percent staged. its taken maybe 20 yards away from the class 2 scramble up Pinnacle peak. I remember thinking the same thing when I reconginzed the location.

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I think both volumes are very valuable work & I admire the authors. But in my view the snappy writing gets pushed too far. Kearny's book suffers to the extent it imitates. Becky has the best writing because it doesn't call attention to itself.

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Hi,

 

Re: Glacier Peak – you might as well add the White Chuck Gl w/ the N. Fork Sauk River approach. There’s no telling when the old road will re-open. This is currently the standard route. P.S. there’s now a sizable lake near the snout of the White Chuck Gl. that’s not shown in Becky’s guide book. The lake is a good landmark. The view of Glacier Pk. is obscured at that point during the approach. Becky’s “early season approach” to the White Chuck area is accurate.

 

Re: Forbidden West Ridge – there’s a nice 4th/5th class gully to the west of the snow gully. This is a good option/variation in late season when the gully’s mote is too wide. The best descent from the West Ridge is a bit further west of this gully. There are several rap stations on that descent (loose rock).

 

Could you add Little Tahoma E. Shoulder? This really is a “classic.” Is appears in a couple of guide books but the details are vague – especially the location of the final rock pitches. One of these route descriptions incorrectly rates the route 3rd class. I felt it was a respectical snow climb. The lack of an accurate route description obscures this wonderful route.

 

Re: East Wilmans Spire – snow in the approach gully? Global warming has melted it. Leave your ice tools at home.

 

Re: Mt. Maude N. Face. I didn’t catch your comment (above). But, I think Ice Lakes/Entiat Gl. is a better approach. It's scenic and it adds a couple hundred feet to this already short route.

 

Last but not least for your fans in PDX – please add Mt. Hood, Coe Gl Icefall. Another obscure classic. I’ve done it WI2/3 directly up the center. It appears to be easier now, and a large serrac has been trundling ice down the east side. Regardless, this can be a great ice climb in early season and it deserves classic status. Optional traverse to Snow Dome at mid point is a plus. The Jeff Thomas description is OK.

 

Cheers and thanks,

Chris

 

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I'm Jersey Scum under different name and here's what I think at the moment:

 

Kearney's book is more personal, probably more informative and has different aims and better writing than "Selected" I & II. But the most basic premise of all three books is the same, which is to package a few routes and sell them as "classic."

 

All three books have plenty of merit and I don't regret buying them. My complaints are more properly about the "consumer" mindset which publishers are wild about, and which is also somewhat unavoidable for anybody (including me) born after about 1940.

 

 

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You're probably right about route information, but regarding total volume of information, especialy historical and personal stuff. you're probably wrong. Maybe Kearney should have just done a memoir... I'm now completely drunk....God bless all three authors....

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