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goatboy

[TR] Hubba Hubba, Leavenworth- Central Flow 1/25/2004

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Climb: Hubba Hubba, Leavenworth-Central Flow

 

Date of Climb: 1/25/2004

 

Trip Report:

Climbed this route this past weekend on Saturday, among droves of other climbers. Nelson's book calls it a "climb not to be missed." Not too many people seemed to miss it on Saturday! Fortunately our early start served us well, as we were first on the route.

 

Pitch one was in good condition, fat ice for the most part.

 

298Hubba_Hubba_020-med.jpg

 

After this steep start (maybe 75 or 80 degrees steep) the route kicked back quite a bit through little bulges and steps, felt like WI 2 with some thin ice and snow over rock. First pitch overall was WI 3, 60 meters to a fixed anchor in rock.

 

The second pitch (WI2) started off steep, on some marginal, rotten ice that soon eased off to lower angle ice (about 100 feet) leading to 100 feet of snow.

 

298Hubba_Hubba_017-med.jpg

 

We climbed it as a party of three, starting in great sun which soon degenerated to clouds and snow. There were little spindrift avalanches all day, making the climb seem more exciting and alpine than it really is.

 

Walked off to the right from the top of the gully. Descent took about 20 minutes on 35 degree slopes.

 

Sausages and fries and IPA at Gustav's completed a great day of multipitch Washington Ice. bigdrink.gifHCL.gif

 

Snowshoes would have been nice for the approach!

 

Go get it!

 

Gear Notes:

Ice screws, optional rock gear (medium to small tri cams or stoppers, piton) for rock belay midway.

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Cool.

 

My plan to head there saturday were demolished by someone too sick of climbing in Leavenworthless.

 

Maybe another time.

 

Best photos of route yet that I have seen here..

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Thanks, Caveman! I haven't seen too many photos of the route here, but I'm glad you liked the ones I put up.

 

- GB

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Trudged up to Hubba Hubba on Sunday with a couple of buddies to find another party of 3 just getting started. The route on the right was looking kind of thin but I would not let my partners talk me out of it, eager fool that I am. The 1st pitch is thin, rotten and half unconsolidated snow and I was glad that I had some stubbies. The first 30"

of the second pitch was pretty much the same before it backed off and was all snow. We had one 50M rope and twin 60's would have taken me to a good tree belay where we could of rapped from. Instead I brought one up and then lowered him so that the other could climb and then the 2 of us ascended to where we could walk off.

The conditions were similiar to the time I backed off of the first crux on the 3X Couloirs. I'm ready now, anyone game?

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We found Hubba quiet and peaceful on Mon. Great ice great friends. No rock gear needed. Thanks for the great boot track y'all. ps, check out Duck Boys Ale House, across teh street and two doors down from Gustav's, and way better food. bigdrink.gif

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So which one of you wankers dropped your pack off the climb on Saturday?

 

HAHAHAHA!

 

 

Edit: Please forgive me. I've been hanging out with PolishBob and IveBeenDrinking.

 

 

 

p.s. WANKERS!!

Edited by Alpinfox

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Cool TR. Sounds like that thing will be there for a while. thumbs_up.gif

 

 

P.S.

 

Hey Alpinfox:

 

Wankers? If you were a real CPB protege' it would have been clownpunchers .....

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ps, check out Duck Boys Ale House, across teh street and two doors down from Gustav's, and way better food. bigdrink.gif

 

Sorry for the thread drift but.... are you crazy? We went to Duckboys a couple weeks ago instead of the usual Gustavs. That food f'ing blows at Duckboys!!! Gustavs has much better food. My buddies agreed too. Now as far as beer selection goes, well Duckboys all the way!!

 

Okay,.. back on track. Great pics!!!

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Climbed HH today, still in pretty good shape, though there is significantly more wet rock showing on the 2nd pitch than in the above photo. Wanted to climb at the mtneer creek area but it was all melting/falling down.

 

hubba_hubba.jpg

notice the glide crack? Always a good sign hahaha.gif

 

also, got a good look at Drury in the morning. The top pitch is just running water now, though the bottom 1/2 looked "in". My guess is that it would be pretty sun rotted.

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Yep, we were up there on 2/2/04 and it looked about the same, running water underneath. Poking my head through the gap at the base and looking at the huger wet cave underneath was less than inspiring. My partner wasn't feeling well so I just did the bottom pitch a few times and he shivered at the belay. Climbed the right side to the crack, the central pillar stuff, and the left side to a bit above the crack untill I got scared looking down inside the top of the crack.

Also the track you guys had put in was totally buried in new snow, falling all day, so the approach, especially above the tree, sucked. I did manage to find a few of your postholes anyways though.

Rumor had it that someone was on Millenium Wall on Saturday too, and that wasn't too bad. But I didn't get over there myself.

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heh, isn't it great to forget things? Especially when you have that reflex to look down when you dislodge a dinner plate and it smacks you right on the head. hellno3d.gif

 

I find that when I forget my helmet, wearing a hat gives me that same sense of security cantfocus.gif

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