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To Bolt or Not to Bolt?


Crackbolter

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Is it still a flash if someone was showing a video of a climb you later do at a party but you didnt watch the video, Ok you did for a minute but you focussed in on the cute girl spotting and not the hard boulder problem Joe Shirtoff was sending? how about if you worked the first move once six [Confused] years ago but couldnt do it and since then thanks to the kine you have forgotten that incident? [Confused]

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As of last fall, I was surprised to find two new bolts installed basically alongside two old bolts on the second pitch of Canary. I'm not sure how many bolts the FAs put in, but I was surprised to find what appeared to be a sloppy upgrade job (not pulling the bolts you're replacing) on such a classic.

[Confused]

 

[ 04-27-2002, 02:20 AM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ]

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quote:

Originally posted by Uncle Tricky:

As of last fall, I was surprised to find two new bolts installed basically alongside two old bolts on the second pitch of Canary. I'm not sure how many bolts the FAs put in, but I was surprised to find what appeared to be a sloppy upgrade job (not pulling the bolts you're replacing) on such a classic.

[Confused]

Haven't done the second pitch recently, but I remember something like what you describe, and I remember the bolt(s) being placed on obviously convex (read "weak") features. Would a solution be to install 1/2" bolts in the old holes? Maybe remove the "upgrade" bolts? I've been told you can drill out an old snapped-off 1/4" jobber and put a 1/2" bolt, but I ain't never tried it.

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