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Spielman

Fraser Valley climbs

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Hey there...Just moved from Lethbridge Alberta back to the Lower Mainland (abbotsford) and was wondering about local climbs. People on other boards have been suggesting Sumas, Harrison, Hatzic Valley but I have not been able to find any information on any of these crags at all?!?! Was wondering whether anybody here knew about local climbs (climbs, bouldering, top roping pretty much anything near by abbotsford). Someone said that "dru" knows a lot about the local stuff? and that I could find him on this board...Anyways, thanks guys and I'll hopefully see you on the rock!

 

Jason

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Someone said that "dru" knows a lot about the local stuff? and that I could find him on this board.

Fuck, you have no idea how true this is. You may learn to regret finding out exactly how true...!

 

Seriously though, whoever told you to "ask Dru" is right. He lives in Chilliwackoff and has done loads in the Valley (and elsewhere on the Coast). And he is generally helpful, if occasionally surly. wave.gif

 

If he doesn't reply within minutes of your post, it probably means he is away. You'll know when he gets back....

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Be sure to stock up on paper plates and permanent markers so that you can communicate with the locals. Otherwise, they shoot your car full of holes, burn it, and ram it off the road and into the woods.

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Thanks for all the great input (esp. the styrofoam cup and string?!). I'll make sure I keep an eye out for dru. If anybody knows where I can get the guidebooks for sumas, hatzic prarie and harrison that info would be great....Thanks again

 

Jason

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Check at the Abbotsford climbing gym (sorry, can't recall the name) or at Valhalla Pure (local gear shop @ 1993 Riverside Road). They should know what sort of guides are available. Maybe Coast Mountain Sports, too.

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Valhalla Pure in Abbotsford should have the book, it's by Mike Crapo, smallish pamphlet thing, but topos included. "Fraser Valley Rock"? MEC doesn't have it anymore. Check out the couple of climbs in the Chehalis River Gorge, they're good, esp. "Karma Dogs", 10d, which is wicked.

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Who is this "Dru" person anyway?

 

The Abbotsford climbing gym is called Flashpoint. thumbs_up.gif

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OK FV crags.

 

Lefebvre Road erratic has some bouldering/TRs. No topo available, probs to V6, anchors on top.

 

Sumas Mtn has some poor quality crags often missing hangars from the bolts. Often muddy. But can be fun. There are 3 diff crags on diff parts of the mountain. One sandstone, one volcanic, one granite.

 

FV north (highway 7) has hatzic prairie, chehalis gorge, chehalis roadside, elbow lake, harrison lake and rockface areas. All cragging with longer routes possible at rockface, harrison and elbow lk.

 

FV south has chilliwack river limestone sport routes, chwk. granite trad and aid routes, and crag routes near hunter creek.

 

Bouldering sites - best are near Hope with the Cobbles, HunterCreek, Lorenzetta road and Lake of the Woods being the most developed.

 

Mike Crapo's guidebook covers Hatzic, Chehalis Roadside and Gorge, and Chwk Limestone.

 

The Harrison Bluffs guide covers Harrison Bluffs. Due to some access issues this place is not too popular at the moment and many climbs have vanished under the moss. A great spot for aid soloing though!

 

There are no guidebooks for any other areas. Just go and poke around.

 

I think there are about 150 crag routes and like 500 boulder probs at the moment... good if you cant drive to Squamish or as a alternative destination.

 

Flashpoint is the best place to meet other FV climbers. I keep meaning to buy a membeship myself. The only prob i have with it is the bouldering terrain isnt very good as compared to the Edge or Cliffhanger.

 

Cliffhanger Coquitlam or Vert Reality Surrey are your other gym options. Both are more of a drive but Cliff Coquit is "cool". Bring an attitude. yellaf.gif

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cliff coquit isn't bad. high ceiling, lots of lead climbing, not too crowded due to big open space, and bouldering is fairly good.

 

the routes aren't bad, many not as well thought out as I like, but given how many routes are there, they can't be all stellar. many hard routes are just power or fingery, no intriging problem solving involved. mad.gif and not too many stemming problems either - a big minus! mad.gifmad.gif

Edited by Stemalot

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Dru...thanks for that information and by the sounds of this board you are also the man!!! I definitely would be interested in going to flashpoint (closet one) and getting to know other s around here.

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i'll probably start going to flashpoint cause i finally admitted need to get stronger for the coming season. if u see a guy with glasses and a goatee falling off v2's come up and say hi hahaha.gif

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Dru. If you are ever at the Rock Wall in Maple Ridge lemme know. I go there when the weather is shitty. wave.gif Gotta admit they grad pretty soft. I was climbing v5 there! cantfocus.gifyellaf.gif

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You can get Crapo's book at Valhalla Pure Abby or Flashpoint gym.

 

There is no more info on Elbow Lake except that it is about 2km up the Chehalis logging road. There is bouldering up to V8, and a big cliuff in back with some neat looking potential lines but not a lot done last time i was there except this one Zombie Roof like crack and a poorly cleaned bolted route. Lots opf potential so takle drill scrubbrush and so on. Dont forget the lake is a drinking water source when you go swimming afterwards.

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Sorry about the small size (see attachment). Not the best photos of the Elbow Lake Bluffs....but just enough to give peaople an idea what the hell Dru is talking about. Might want to wait until the weather is nice....or go aid in the rain.

5a1a55a1e73b0_302792-ElbowLakeBluffs1mod.jpg.d3180bf2616bf3b0a8a707c7688f8e32.jpg

Edited by Stemalot

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in my list of crags i forgot to mention there are a few routes on a crag on private land at lake errock, in latest crapo guide...

 

also there are some secret project cliffs

357drillin-med.jpg

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