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Mount Garfield, Infinite Bliss route


shapp

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wouldn't you say that if a route is published in rock and ice that the cat is pretty much officially out of the bag?

 

the route looks cool. i see two possible futures: either the total number of people summitting garfield will vastly increase, or after a short buzz, people will forget about it and it will be reclaimed by the moss. does anyone know if the proposed closure of the middle fork snoqualmie road is before or after the access point for the route?

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Both!

 

From Nov -> April the closure will be at Taylor River which is a mile (or less according to Klenke [who seems to know his stuff]) from the trailhead for this climb. May -> October it's closed at Dingford Creek which is well past it.

midp3.JPG

 

By the way, choss not moss is and will be the issue with this climb.

Edited by chucK
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The only beta I want is once you get on the first pitch is route finding fairly straight forward without a topo and how loose is it? On a scale of 1 to 4, where 1 is solid bomb proof granite and 4 is pulling blocks off with serious potential of being hit or cutting the rope, 2 would be and some loose stuff, but can be avoided for the most part there is some chance of breaking a hold, 3 would be you will be knocking off holds, with moderate potential of being hit. In addition is there any natural gear placement opportunity on the route besides the bolts and if so, what size range/type.

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I haven't seen the official topo so my pitch #'s may be off but here's the beta as per your specifications:

 

p's 1 through ~12

straightforward (follow the bolts)

1.5

bolts, lot's of 'em

 

p's 13-16

might want topo

3

small nuts and tcu's (in looseness)

 

p's 17-?

didn't do

 

HELMET recommended

Edited by chucK
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Dammit, I hate it when people quote me from Pub Club. Thinking I might have been on something as opposing to on to something, I checked my topo.

 

It's two miles from the Taylor River junction to the standard start point for a climb of Garfield. You're right, Al_Pine ChucK:

298718-Garfield%20road%20apprch_4.jpg

5a1a55a1b4c96_298718-Garfieldroadapprch_4.jpg.d1cf0c5a11e3cdc8c444726b5666ab7f.jpg

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The route has been up for two years and you wankers just now get the beta!

See what spray'n $#!T about climbers that give their hard work and money to put up climbs for us all got ya!

If it's not your route don't phuk with it or spray Negative $#!T about it!

One mans choss is another mans classic, it's all climbing and it's all good wink.gif

wave.gif DICK

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wouldn't you say that if a route is published in rock and ice that the cat is pretty much officially out of the bag?

 

the route looks cool. i see two possible futures: either the total number of people summitting garfield will vastly increase, or after a short buzz, people will forget about it and it will be reclaimed by the moss. does anyone know if the proposed closure of the middle fork snoqualmie road is before or after the access point for the route?

 

There is a third future, and that is new route development. I was out there this summer scoping it out and very surprised that there "weren't" routes up that huge piece of stone. Glad to hear there is since it is really close to Seattle and everything. I was begining to think the climbing community around here are slackers if they left that hunk of stone by its self.

 

So info please??? someone anyone, there has to be topo, so where is it?

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I was surprised to see this route in the latest version of Rock and Ice .

 

topo therein wave.gif

 

So you mean I gotta buy that stupid magazine? I stop reading Climbing and R&I several years ago. Come on somebody have it that thing and wants to post it here for all?

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No, we did not. And we wasted some time as a result. Onmce you get started, you will probably do OK without a topo up to the top of pith 12, a full-length pitch with perhaps 4-6 bolts in it. However, from here you mave to move right to a bush (120 feet, no bolts), and then start upward again. A topo would help, but is probably not needed if you have this beta. Copy your friend's copy of R&I and you will do fine.

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