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Leavenworth rock


Smoker

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Frenchman Coulee near Vantage was excellent last Monday. Dry, warm, and deserted. Peshastin opens this weekend, also.

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Andrew

"But to snuff it without knowing who you are and what you are capable of, I can't think of anything sadder than that." Mo Anthoine in Feeding the Rat, by Al Alvarez, 1988.

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EVERYONE,

one my mutli weekly days to the crag i have recently noticed an disturbing amount of trash. from smith rocks(really dirty) to index(dirty). so i am asking everyone to pick up all the garbage you see. i know i offer no incentive to this plan other then everyone taking pride in the places that the climb. i even avoided getting in trouble with ranger once cause i was picking up trash. it can only make the craggs a better place. thank you for EVERYONES help.

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Right on Erik,

I was *&^& cragging on ice in Lillooet and saw dookie. Marble Canyon on the trail (nice to clean out of my crampons!), Loose Lady approach. Not to mention trash at rock crags. Do your part and crap away from the trail and water sources. Plus pick up your trash too.

-Ray

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Last weekend the rock was dry in some places up the icicle, but snow is still on the ground. Careno looks good.I have been over there scoping it out on every weekend for ice posibilities since christmas,or on my way to Banks lake or the Palisades.I climbed some ice on the rim across from Castle rock last weekend, and castle looked pretty good as well, however there is water ice above saints rainshadow, and snow on loggers ledge. One note: check yourself freqently for ticks! I got over 28 ticks on me a few years ago on an early spring rock climb in levenworth. The ticks were climbing out of the crack up my arms, on my eye brow's. Pretty tough shaking them in the middle of a lead. They are pretty aggresive in the spring.

 

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Retro,

We crossed the old hydro bridge, and hiked up to the indian art. The week before we post holed the approach. last week we left early saterday and made the appoach up to the big ice curtians near the top of the rim. We did 3- short 1 pitch climbs on the left side. If conditions were right the right hand pillar would be really good. The sun was on it and 2-3' sections were comming off the free hanging ice from the rim. We stayed out from under it. The ice tended to fall to the right side of the main shield away from the pillar so the left side was OK. the climbng consited of (poorly bonded to the rock) moderate ice formed pillar & drips of plastic,but on the rim of each drip, poorly bonded snow and slush. We had fun. If you could catch it on the right day it would be phenominal.

I have to jam, If you want to talk about it more that would be cool. did you climb the pillar above the cave? e-mail me ockjr@msn I am catching a flight to Sun Valley in an hour so I have to run.ock

 

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hey Smoker,

Great!glad you had a good time.

It is probably a little early for the pinacles the rock may be "soft".

I am planning to go rock climbing up in the icicle next weekend. See you around.

Thanks for the update!

 

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