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Dru

New Edition - CAG Vol III (Red Beckey)

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Not sure if this is mentioned in any of the CAGs, but Stehekin means "the way through" not "Rough Water" as stated in "Challenge of the North Cascades"

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I hope Fred is using all the info contributed to A.A.J.'s that have come out since the last edition of his alpine guide.

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no, i think he's just using "hot flashes" from the past few issues of climbing magazine

 

actually I believe he is using mostly the 8a.nu bouldering scorecards

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I saw him down at the gym last night asking for info about the origins of the "Blue Route" -- looks like it has a messy FA history, either the guy with the beanie, or the guy who always climb w/o a shirt.

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man, we're like a bunch of jackyls when we don't get our climbing fix in!

 

The weather isn't going to get any nicer.....

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I saw him down at the gym last night asking for info about the origins of the "Blue Route" -- looks like it has a messy FA history, either the guy with the beanie, or the guy who always climb w/o a shirt.

 

I heard the blue route was bolted on rappel.

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Dunno if this will make it into the new edition, but I'll post it here for reference anyway. The route description for the NW Face of Kangaroo Temple is confusing, though the topo is right on. The first paragraph is fine; here's how the second paragraph should read (bold indicates changes):

 

Begin on the right side of the gully leading to the N notch (c. 200 ft below the notch) at a flat, table-sized rock. The first pitch is steep but sound: the crux is a 10-ft overhanging section (poor protection). Move up and left to a tree, then traverse right, entering the chimney/corner with a short downclimb. Climb the corner and belay at one of two trees. Step left and climb past a large flake, entering a left-trending corner system. (confusing sentences deleted) Two short pitches lead to the "Dance Floor"--a 30-degree slab. Traverse left to bypass a wall and meet the narrowing shallow chimney of the normal North Face route; jam and lieback to the easy summit slabs. Grade II; class 5.7. Rack: On original, 14 pitons used; chocks and cams to 2" are adequate, with small gear useful for first-pitch corner. Time: 3 hours. Reference: Mountaineer, 1943, pp. 12-13.

 

Variation: Instead of traversing left to start pitch four, continue up the corner system for 20 ft to a tree, then move right and up to an alcove belay. From here, follow one of three weaknesses to the summit scramble; the rightmost ascends steep blocks on crumbly rock.

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It would be great to have my name spelled correctly. In the current edition of the red book, Fred spells my name "Hensen"--turning me into some sort of scandie type.

Correct spelling: Henson-- like the muppet guy.

 

Molar Tooth: East Face. Reference: The American Alpine Journal:vol36, 1994; p.134

 

Thanks for passing this along.

Keith Henson

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Is there a chance he is still adding to this update?

 

the best bet is to email him directly and ask.

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The date on my Red Beckey is 2000 so I don't now if it is too late, but the only decent trail I can find up to Kangaroo Pass is on the other (west) side of the creek. (p.292)

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I heard that the new book is FINALLY done & at the printers right now... with ETA c. Christmas.

 

And now it is supposed to be printed and in the Mtneers Books warehouse! :tup:

 

we'll see how many errors and omissions this edition has....

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