Doug_Hutchinson Posted April 17, 2002 Share Posted April 17, 2002 I know there have been only about 60,000 posts on TCs, but here's a question I have not seen discussed yet about this route: What are opinions about climbing the route with skis and AT boots? After climbing the backbone ridge last year, it was obvious that a ski descent of Dragontail would be ideal, but it is a little steeper than I would want to do in plastic mountaineering boots. Since conditions seem to be variable in TCs, I don't have a clear sense about how difficult the route would be with clumsy boots and skis on a pack. Bonus question: With a party of three, would two ropes be best for the rock bands or are they short enough to do with one 50M rope and the second tied into the middle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted April 17, 2002 Share Posted April 17, 2002 If you can catch the route with the crux bands well iced, climbing the route with AT boots would not be a big deal. But with skiis on your back? Well, I would not do it. The descent is a straight forward walk off and trivial compared to the climb. I feel you would be screwing up the climb for a few turns. But hey, if that's what you're into... Bonus question: Definitely two ropes, preferrably twin or doubles. And belay both seconds at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted April 17, 2002 Share Posted April 17, 2002 You will Epic, and it will suck. It will suck harder than anything has EVER sucked before. Go ahead w/just one rope though for the upper rock bands, but be prepared for it to suck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hikerwa Posted April 17, 2002 Share Posted April 17, 2002 not all things that suck are bad. (ask hugh grant) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted April 17, 2002 Share Posted April 17, 2002 when I was on in Apr 99 (heavy snow year, like this one), the route was in shape enough to be done with randonee boots, as long as your crampons fit very well. Skis, I would think thats possible. Mattp did NEBC of Colchuck with skis on back this season, and while not as sustained as TC, it was not less steep or technical either. However, I would really question whether the ski down would be worth it. The top half of ASSguard pass tends to be very windblown and very icy. The decent is pretty fast even w/o skis With a party of three, you would be stupid not to bring double 8s. a single 50 isnt enough for the steeper sections with three, as there will be parts of the route you wont want to simulclimb at all. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted April 17, 2002 Share Posted April 17, 2002 I've only climbed this route once, but it was only a few weeks ago. I would not take skis up that route! The descent is very pleasant without skis, and in fact we encountered some water ice on Asgard Pass which we front-pointed down (for fun -- we could have avoided it). In other words, it didn't seem like the skiing would be worth the added weight/slowness of hauling skis up triple couloirs. Rock band beta: The rock band connecting the 2nd and 3rd couloir is about 40 feet tall -- sugary snow over slabby rock when we were there, about 60 degrees steep I suppose -- we had two ropes, so I just went a full 60 meters to a snow-shoulder on the right and belayed off of cams in rock. If you wanted to tie someone into the middle of a single rope, you'd have to try to stop just above the rock band where the couloir narrows down... and would probably need pitons to belay off of. You'll want a few pins anyway . . . If I were trying to move a party of three up this long route, I would take two 60 meter ropes and try to stretch them out as much as possible rather than being constrained to 25 meter pitches. Good luck! Post a report. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted April 18, 2002 Share Posted April 18, 2002 quote: Mattp did NEBC of Colchuck with skis on back this season, and while not as sustained as TC I'm not sure if I saw Mattp or not on the way up, but some dudes were comming down from colchuck as I headed up in the treed section just below the lake. Anyway, they were swearing and having a miserable time and I heard, "I wish I had snowshoes" more than once. In fact the whole trail up and 50% of the road are not skiable. If you were to come down in boots on the trail, your life would be pain. I saw some Serious post-holes that looked crippling. Most of the descent was icy. If you simul, and do a short pitch across to the 3rd coulior, I believe you can get away with one rope. I don't work at a gear shop or for a guide service, so I don't feel bad about giving you a possibly dangerous reccomendation. Like I said, you can get away w/ it, but only if you feel comfortable simul-climbing 95% of the route. Or, leave one of your friends at home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_Hutchinson Posted April 18, 2002 Author Share Posted April 18, 2002 How far is the road blocked from the trailhead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted April 18, 2002 Share Posted April 18, 2002 If you wear skis on the TC climb then it could be certainly annoying to take up the exit of the ice runnels. It gets a little like a chimney or something like that there. But if you so desire to ski then go ahead and have a blast thrashing up the mountain with unnecessary weight. A smarter alternative is to ski in and then ski up the back side of Dragontail on your approach day if you spend the night. If you carry a shorter than 50 meter rope you will be making the ice runnels into more than 3 pitches most likely. I dont know if you would get good belays either, because I remember getting some rope stretching pitches there to find solid rock to belay on. Also if you take a shorter than 50 again it will make it hard to find the better sound belay exiting into the 3rd couloir. But go for it if you want. I left a pin at the rock on left there. Camp knifeblade... Shit maybe we should install a webcam above the ice runnels that rotates 360 degrees. Then you can all spray about how you will free solo it and ski it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted April 18, 2002 Share Posted April 18, 2002 Oooh, a webcam, now thats a damned good idea! I had no idea the route was such a popular obsession until I found this site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted April 18, 2002 Share Posted April 18, 2002 I'll be sure to BA it if I pass it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
To_The_Top Posted April 18, 2002 Share Posted April 18, 2002 If you do take up the skiis you can go down a colior that faces west to the Colchuck col and ski down the Colchuck glacier, and avoid the crap at Aasgard Pass. Otherwise would agree that going up TC with skis would not be worth the hassle, but the glacier would be a fun ski after the climb if you want to deal with it. TTT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted April 18, 2002 Share Posted April 18, 2002 I say ski the route. Just rappel the ice runnels. Free solo it. If you are looking for good skiing exiting the ice runnels will provide difficulty with skis on your back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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