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montanapup

Wanting to learn to ice and alpine climb

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Perhaps a few of you could help; I'm jonsing to learn to ice climb, but have a limited number of partners willing to show me the ropes due to time and resource constraints (understandable and also frustrating) and others who dont know how or arent willing to commit. I'm pretty serious about getting my skills on ice. I've rock climbed for the last 7 plus years, mostly sport and trad, so I have some idea of climbing. This year I became more serious about moving into alpine rock and now the bug has bitten me for more. I've been facinated with ice climbing for years, and I've decided this is the year. I'm debating taking some mountaineering and ice course, but I'm unsure if this is the right way. Any recommendations? What about AAI in Bellingham? or others other than the Mountaineers. Sorry, they are fine for some, but I just dont like their style.

 

Any advice is greatly appreciated! bigdrink.gif

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nice... just what is needed. The Alpine Starter set for only $100 + s&h. How helpful. You'll soon be soloing big mountain routes.

mm_swag.jpg

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go to an ice fest and try out all the TRs and free demo stuff to find out if you like it.

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try the ice wall at cascade crags in everett

good training to get technique and endurance

 

you can also get lessons there as well, talk to mike palmer @ 425-258-3431

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Perhaps a few of you could help; I'm jonsing to learn to ice climb, but have a limited number of partners willing to show me the ropes due to time and resource constraints (understandable and also frustrating) and others who dont know how or arent willing to commit. I'm pretty serious about getting my skills on ice. I've rock climbed for the last 7 plus years, mostly sport and trad, so I have some idea of climbing. This year I became more serious about moving into alpine rock and now the bug has bitten me for more. I've been facinated with ice climbing for years, and I've decided this is the year. I'm debating taking some mountaineering and ice course, but I'm unsure if this is the right way. Any recommendations? What about AAI in Bellingham? or others other than the Mountaineers. Sorry, they are fine for some, but I just dont like their style.

 

Any advice is greatly appreciated! bigdrink.gif

 

Now don't be distancing yourself from the Mountaineers, Homer. Some of them can ice climb pretty gooder than you can. I recall learning to monkey hang, vee thread, place good screws, and use two ropes and make tracks on steep seracs and even leading for real in a field trip up on Mount Baker. Those guides won't let you lead for real! Hell, go up to Alaska and get Colby Coombs and his buddy Mikey to teach you up in Valdez if you are too cool for the mounties and afraid of the estute hardmen and women on this site. anyway you slice it, waterfall ice climbing has lower tolerance for error than other forms of climbing, so, if it hasn't found you, maybe you shouldn't try so hard to find it. i'm not ice climbing again until i forget about the last time i went.

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Dangerous, shamerous. Learn like I did .. buy a whole bunch of crap that you'll have to sell later cause you end up not liking any of it, then go out and find someone even less experienced than you and go have yourself an epic or two.

 

Seriously, don't over think this. Find another novice and go spend a day on a tr on kiddie cliff at alpental. Then go to Lillooet and lead the first pitch of the left climb at the rambles (WI2) a bunch of times. Even a novice can do this with 3 or 4 screws. The central gully at rambles might be a little steep for you but the far right gully's first pitch is doable at wi2+ and the second pitch is 2-. You could also go do plan B in bridge river or god forbid go set up a tr at marble canyon.

 

The point is, just get out there and climb, it's not rocket science, just stay on moderate terrain until you figure it out.

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Thank you! Best advice so far! Please dont mistake my enthusiasm as overly cocky or brash, I'm just really determined and motivated to push myself in learning this new medium. I'm definately driven, but not foolhardy. I will definately do more research before I decide to go out and have an epic. Bring it on! If you all have more fodder for thought......

 

bigdrink.gif

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the_finger.gif

 

hehehehe

 

well ya darn ingrate, my bitching probably helped get you an offer to follow a rope for the mere price of hotel, food, and beer!

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Best way to learn is through experience, yes? Many courses are great but they cost a fortune and it's their schedule not yours. I'm a relative beginner on vertical ice, but I'm gaining confidence by using a bombproof toprope and trial and error with technique. There is plenty of literature on the subject, but nothing is better than experience. I'd be happy to share what I know and learn more with ya. PM me.

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if you pay my motel and gas money i will do it. just pm me and we can figure it out. ciao- r

 

This is probably a better deal than it sounds. Thinking of going for it myself. Hotels in Lilloet are dirt cheap, and you're paying for half the gas anyways. Probably climb harder/ more than you can imagine with Bob as your ropegun.

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I used to climb ice. Now I am old and fat with some fancy new tools. Bought Cobras and am jonesin to use them too. I will be heading for some moderate ice from Redmond when the ice gets in. I need a few more screws on my rack. Get one or two of those and tools and we could get out for a day here and there. No charge. Just split expenses. rolleyes.gif

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Dangerous, shamerous. Learn like I did .. buy a whole bunch of crap that you'll have to sell later cause you end up not liking any of it, then go out and find someone even less experienced than you and go have yourself an epic or two.

 

Seriously, don't over think this. Find another novice and go spend a day on a tr on kiddie cliff at alpental. Then go to Lillooet and lead the first pitch of the left climb at the rambles (WI2) a bunch of times. Even a novice can do this with 3 or 4 screws. The central gully at rambles might be a little steep for you but the far right gully's first pitch is doable at wi2+ and the second pitch is 2-. You could also go do plan B in bridge river or god forbid go set up a tr at marble canyon.

 

The point is, just get out there and climb, it's not rocket science, just stay on moderate terrain until you figure it out.

thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

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Trundle - so Mountain Madness sells gear. Big deal. They're a great local guide operation and a good place for beginners to get started.

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can you please show me the $100 worth of Alpine Starter gear in that photo?

 

They are selling swag to rich wanna-be climbers that don't know better, not gear.

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What is the difference between this and other marketing/sales gimmicks from (insert industry) here. There is none. Buyer beware and if you are not an informed consumer you should become one.

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