Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   12/08/21

      Thanks for visiting Cascadeclimbers.com.   Yep, we are still going!    Just put a new coat of paint on the site. Still the same old community of climbers, skiers, and people who love to get outdoors. Hope you had a great 2021, and wish you the best for 2022 and beyond.  Thanks again for stopping by.
Sign in to follow this  
Bronco

Time for Winter Ascents!

Recommended Posts

Well, time for your pre-climb chestbeat. It's the first day of winter, what's everybody planning to flail around on?

 

With any luck -

 

Scaling some rocks out at Index when it's sunny and warm.

 

Little Tahoma on my skis.

 

Knock down some ice around Bozeman.

 

The steeper Coulior on the N Face of Colchuck.

 

[/start token nemises climb] Maybe scratch around on the NFNP of Index if we get good conditions. [end token nemises climb/]

 

Poach tele skiier's lines whenever possible wazzup.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You mention Index crags, but what about Index mountain? Has anyone been on it in the winter or planning on climbing it? What does it take for it to be in? Last Friday is the first time I have been able to see the mountain in a long time looks like it would be fun, but it was way to warm. I am assumming we need a freeze spell for things to set up, but how many day are required? What about some of the cool alpine lines in WA Pass when do those come into shape, what type of weather patterns are needed, anyone game?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am hoping to make some winter ascents of some local peeks laugh.gif by some technical type routes if we get good conditions. For instance today would have been good conditions but I'm stuck at work cry.gif

 

I am hoping to climb a few unclimbed ice routes lurking in the back reaches of the north Cascades cool.gif if'n they ever form up.

 

I am hoping to climb some stuff at Lillooet and maybe lead my first WI5 if I feel strong and confident thumbs_up.gif

 

I wanna learn to ski more good and not fall down and wipe-out so much.

 

That's about it for now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ken,

 

OK, but I wonder if it would actually be pretty easy for them to enforce. How many lift-served skiers will be parking in their parking lot at 4:00 in the morning (a typical departure time for a winter alpine route). Probably they wouldn't tow unless it was a repeat offender, but who wants to take the chance, given how massively expensive a tow would be?

 

Now, if you show up after the lifts open, I agree it will be hard for them to nail you. But that makes winter alpine climbs kind of infeasible unless you're superhero fast. Overnight parking presumably will also make you stand out as a potential parking violator.

 

I'd be happy to walk further, but where else would you park, without also risking a ticket or (even worse) getting towed?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ken:

 

I was referring to the North Face of the North Peak of Mt. Index (NFNP) as I am a lazy person and will abreviate whenever possible.

 

The route is described in a few different guide books and has a reputation for being popular when it's "in". I think it's Grade III - V, 5.7+, WI3+. Plan to bivy.

 

Now that I've typed that out in plain letters and numbers, I think I'll just scope it out from HWY 2 for another season. blush.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bronco, I thought they gave it IV,5.7,WI4 rating, yeah that route seems like a good one. So you been scoping it from the road, but not getting on it. Why? Just haven't gotten the right conditons or other reasons?

 

Stephen, what? 4 am for the Tooth f-dat are serious? Your pulling my leg right? I was going to see if you wanted to get on it, but there is no way I am leaving Seattle at 2:30 am to climb the Tooth, have fun.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ken,

 

I've got a partner, thanks. We are both beginners, so we move slow, and hit the trail early. For the Tooth, I wouldn't leave quite that early. But for other winter routes I would. To each his own. wave.gif

 

Cheers,

Steve

Edited by Stephen_Ramsey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
So you been scoping it from the road, but not getting on it. Why? Just haven't gotten the right conditons or other reasons?

 

Mainly becasue it's so scary looking!!! cry.gif

 

If I do climb it this year, look for a very long cheastbeater trip report!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've tried Index in winter a couple times. Difficult to get the conditions just right.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
So you been scoping it from the road, but not getting on it. Why? Just haven't gotten the right conditons or other reasons?

 

Mainly becasue it's so scary looking!!! cry.gif

 

If I do climb it this year, look for a very long cheastbeater trip report!

 

You're climbing that bitch this summer if I have to drag your ass!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
So you been scoping it from the road, but not getting on it. Why? Just haven't gotten the right conditons or other reasons?

 

Mainly becasue it's so scary looking!!! cry.gif

 

If I do climb it this year, look for a very long cheastbeater trip report!

 

You're climbing that bitch this summer if I have to drag your ass!!!

 

Summer, man that doesn't look scary, just looks like work. I wanted to get on it this last summer so I could try figure out what is the best way to get off that damn thing during the winter. On Monday someone had told me it suppose to stay like it was for the rest of the week, it got me all worked up instantly thought 'Index'. Pray for cold and clear down low.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey anyone been on NE ridge/face of the tooth this year? Also what about Chair (is there too much snow right now) and Snoqualmie NY Gully?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
So you been scoping it from the road, but not getting on it. Why? Just haven't gotten the right conditons or other reasons?

 

Mainly becasue it's so scary looking!!! cry.gif

 

If I do climb it this year, look for a very long cheastbeater trip report!

 

You're climbing that bitch this summer if I have to drag your ass!!!

 

Summer, man that doesn't look scary, just looks like work. I wanted to get on it this last summer so I could try figure out what is the best way to get off that damn thing during the winter. On Monday someone had told me it suppose to stay like it was for the rest of the week, it got me all worked up instantly thought 'Index'. Pray for cold and clear down low.

I have been trying to solo the NF of N Index for two years now. Summer only so far. I have only had a day each time and keep running out of time. But what I do know is that there are rapell routes all over the face. Slings etc. Just be careful toward the bottom. If you go down the middle, you end up on a couple funky wire placements that are probably older than you are. Take the route down the east side of the face so you end up going down the route before the traverse near the bottom. You will have to work at cutting over there if you do not tend that way from the start. Take some long leaver slings and pins (short KB's). I have heard that the west ridge is a safe way off but you end up in a long bushwhack down Anderson creek.

A winter ascent would be worth a good chest beating. That is a very big face.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"...best way to get off that damn thing during the winter."

 

With a couple exceptions, pretty much just rap and downclimb the ascent route. When descending the big snow ramp that tops out on the N ridge proper, rap off one of the lowest trees straight down to a big tree at the upper edge of the bowl.

One of the last raps is free-hanging off a shitty bush. Fortunately in winter it's frozen in place and feels alot better! Oh, 60m ropes are very helpful.

 

If the upper bowl has slid already the climb should be great right about this weekend! Enjoy!

 

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×