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Doctorb

Littlewet TR??

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I have a rope for you but considering: 1) silk degrees apparently never complety forms, 2) Salmon stakes is hardly a grade 3 especially if the tube is 3+, not really worth ever going back for, 3) there are no trees worth tying in to or rocks for that matter, 4) I got soaked to the bone with slush in my toes and so should every one else!!

 

it may not be worth the trouble

 

Fern: first we tried to cross up river rock hopping, I fell in on the first rock hop since it was ice covered and we realized we needed to wade. We didnt go back to the salmon bar since we were now too far, so it was fairly deep. On the way back however we chose the salmon bar which was just as deep but had nice rocks to walk on.

 

This time i just wore my boots, which are now rotting on my heater at home.

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but SILKWORM!!!!! and you can go climb Drake and Troubled Waters too when you are over there,

 

and anyways people climb the mixed start to Silk Degrees now although it's crying out for a bolted direct start instead of the sketchy traverse in with manky pro used in the past.

 

Salmon Stakes is usually 2+ or marginally 3 sometimes if the uppermost pitch is thin.

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Not to bust your bubble but its hovering around 5degrees c right now with a forecast of 7c for the rest of the week. Id say a week of warm temps will proly make most of the climbs out of condition considering most are just barely surviving now.

 

Pray for cold

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maybe santa will bring some ice for christmas

 

thios warm spell is gonna wreak havoc with lower climbs but its a good bet night n gale, shriek of the sheep, oregon jack etc will still be in.

 

still ya might want to bring some skis along in the event there is no ice you can still justify the 10 hour drive from southern oregon by wading in some warm slushiez fruit.gif

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It was just as warm last season and we got lots of cool climbs in....while everyone was spraying on line how much things sucked. You arn't bursting my bubble...I'll be climbing while you are sitting in town moping.

 

yeah we are bringing skis too...Whistler is phase 2 of the plan. bigdrink.gif

 

Still need a partner for monday wave.gif

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hey riptorn, how much precip fell up high? winds? wondering about avy conditions in the Bridge...thanks! bigdrink.gif

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strong southerly winds, around 60cm new, check CAA website for southcoast conditions. Loaded North and East aspects as well as a predicted rise in freezing level.

Sounds a bit sketch

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I climbed in Lillooet From Sunday 12/14 through Wednesday 12/17. Saw Jon at marble on Sunday with his buds, there is plenty of thin, wet, steep stuff to climb there.

 

Monday I climbed at the Rambles with Mark Husbands. The center gully is in fine form, although the last step on the first pitch is a bit thin to protect. At the upper tiers the central column has not touched down, but there are at least 5 other distinct lines that are in. We climbed the squeeze to the left of the column and the long, grade 3 face a bit further left. Ice was soft, damp, but took decent pro.

 

Tuesday we hiked around in the woods above Cayoosh Creek and found a route that we couldn't identify, but it wasn't in climbing condition. Synchronicity has not touched down yet, but it's close.

 

Wednesday was more steep fun at Marble. Ryan has some info from his outings to other locales, but I can't speak for him. I'll post some photos of ice conditions if I can get them from Mark.

 

It rained a lot on Tuesday.

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Tuesday we hiked around in the woods above Cayoosh Creek and found a route that we couldn't identify, but it wasn't in climbing condition.

Hey Nick,

This wouldn't be in the area of "wet lady" would it? We thought about heading up there after seeing it on the ice map, but none of us had heard of it before and didn't want to hike up there (seems about the same elevation as the upper pitch of loose lady) and either not find it or not climb it.

thanks,

-john

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Jon, I haven't seen the ice map, and I haven't tried to match the route we found to the guidebook yet, but maybe with some of my info you can help figure it out.

 

Our plan was to go climb Synchronicity, but we started heading uphill way too soon. We reckon we gained 1,500 feet or so. Crossed an old logging/mining road and wandered up a broad gully. We finally came to a wall on our right that had a few icicles hanging down, but nothing that a good swing wouldn't snap off. There was sort of a little alcove/amphitheater type area, to the right of which was a multipitch, thin, stepped flow. I do not believe it is visible from the road, but I could be wrong.

 

We ended up hiking south a little ways, peeking into a couple gullies in hopes of finding ice, and finally bailed in two raps and some downclimbing. The point at which we descended was at the notch on the rightmost edge of the huge chossy rock face just downstream of Cayoosh from Synchronicity.

 

Basically we were on the wrong side of that big rock face (too far north?), and the potential climb we spotted was way back in the gully. We noticed some blue tape tied to trees for a little ways.

 

Given more precip and cold I think that route will form, but if you can't see it from the road it is kind of a gamble to bushwhack up there only to discover there isn't worth climbing. Mark had a camera and tried taking photos of it, but they were useless.

 

Does this compare to anything on your map?

 

cantfocus.gif

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Alas, the ice map isn't mine. (and dru won't sell me one of his 3 cry.gif) In fact the one I was using was a map that a friend had borrowed from a friend. So I can't match your description against it.

 

But wet lady is on the other side of the road - the same side as loose lady, rambles, tube, etc. The area and climb you describe sound an awful lot like twilight tiers. I've never been there either but it's apparantly a long multi pitch 3+ ish climb to the north of synchro.

 

-john

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Yeah... twilight tiers is right above the duffy bridge. Serendipity is on the left (south) side of the big rockfall scar, to the right of synchro. The area you are describing (I think) is left of twilight teirs and is helpfully marked "projects" on Lyle's ice map cause the south facing area catches sun and the ice has never been known to fully form.

 

GRR I wish I was in Lillooet right now... oh well Im going alpine tomorrow! fruit.gif

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Climbed in Lillooet Sat./Sun. Marble Canyon in but thin--we climbed The Dihedral, Icy BC (first pitch), and No Deductible. One group there climbed all three pitches of Icy BC--they reported the last two pitches as thin and scary. Sat. night bought a 6 pack of Kokanee “Glacier” Beer--that beer is definitely NOT in--yuck (does Canada brew anything worth drinking?). bigdrink.gif

 

Sunday had fun on Oregon Jack--that’s a really cool climb. Oregon Jack isn’t huge, but takes mostly decent pro. Upper 10 or so feet thin and hollow, but doable.

fruit.gif

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Sat. night bought a 6 pack of Kokanee “Glacier” Beer--that beer is definitely NOT in--yuck (does Canada brew anything worth drinking?). bigdrink.gif

 

Clearly you have not yet tried Ye Extra Olde Stocke. My friends and I drink a case of it on every trip to Lillooet. We are also considering seeking sponsorship.

 

Thanks for posting the excerpt from the ice map. I can't tell what the scale is or what the contour interval is, but the Twilight Tiers you guys have described doesn't seem like it matches up with the route we found way up in the gully. Once back at the car we looked uphill and noticed a thin, tiered wall of ice forming almost directly uphill of the bridge, which may correspond to the dot on the map, but the thing up in the gully took us three hours to reach. I would have to put the ice map next to a 7.5 topo to compare, but it kind of seems to me that they are different things. Perhaps we can sort this out by the end of the season.

 

Ye Extra Olde Stocke

Gets Ye Drunke Quicke

yellaf.gif

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the 4km bar in lower left tells you the scale wave.gif

 

contour interval is 200m

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does Canada brew anything worth drinking? bigdrink.gif

 

Warthog Ales! thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

 

Cheap, and good for ya!

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The ice map is more better and accurate.

 

Somebody please sell me a more better ice map!! I'll even pay in canadian funny money.

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I have a rope for you but considering: 1) silk degrees apparently never complety forms, 2) Salmon stakes is hardly a grade 3 especially if the tube is 3+, not really worth ever going back for, 3) there are no trees worth tying in to or rocks for that matter, 4) I got soaked to the bone with slush in my toes and so should every one else!!

 

it may not be worth the trouble

 

.

 

I have an old 10.5 that I will donate all or part of for a Tyrolean but being as it's dynamic it'd take some serious tension to keep your average climber's ass out o' the water on the way across. I'll bring it with me to LW this weekend if someone's serious about trying to install a Tyro. Maybe just a rope strung across the river to help everyone keep their balance while wading across the river would be just as good.

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Good luck setting up a Tyro in the Bridge. The trees are short sticks on both sides. But if you wanted to do something about the Synchro crossing, that would truly be a public service.

 

-L

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It's a stretch for me just to get a route in with the short days - so I probably won't do much there except wade across - but I would be willing to donate some rope for the cause per an earlier request by another poster...

 

Maybe Sobo can decomission the now irrelevant Tryolean by the Royal Columns and pack it up to Lillooet...

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