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Interesting tidbit from new R&I


Dr_Flash_Amazing
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Hey Will...

 

Tim Kemple is another trad climber from back east w/ sick routes...he boulders a shitload though as did Matt...that is prolly where they got the strength/skills to pull off the hard stuff they do...whether its bolt clipping (they both are very good sportclimbers as well) and traditional climbing...

 

Doesn't matter whether you start sport or start trad, do both, or do just one...its all climbing...figure out how to do it and do it...

 

I thought the funniest quote in the whole article went sumpin' like "HA, some british guy did ok on it, how hard could it really be!!" yellaf.gifyellaf.gifyellaf.gifyellaf.gifI think he was talking about Leo Houlding/Patch Hammond? yellaf.gifyellaf.gifyellaf.gif

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Flagstaff, Arizona based (formerly Boone, NC based) climber Matt Childers has also done Golden Gate, FreeRider, and some .13R trad pitches in the Sedona area. He's also done 5.hard FAs in the Vampire spires, the NC mountains, and other places.

 

Matt's background? A NRG trad climber, Boone boulderer, and Yosemite lodge employee/trad climber during the summers while in college.

 

Matt was on my soccer team growing up in Roanoke. He did climb quite a bit at NRG and throughout the South, but he started clipping bolts before climbing trad at NRG and other areas in Virginia and NC. He is also fairly tall, built like Dean Potter, and is a machine on thin climbs and stemming nightmares. Climb in different areas, don't limit onesself to one style, and train hard will pay off big.
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RuMR said:

Hey Will...

 

Tim Kemple is another trad climber from back east w/ sick routes...he boulders a shitload though as did Matt...that is prolly where they got the strength/skills to pull off the hard stuff they do...whether its bolt clipping (they both are very good sportclimbers as well) and traditional climbing...

 

Doesn't matter whether you start sport or start trad, do both, or do just one...its all climbing...figure out how to do it and do it...

 

 

Oh, I had it all wrong! I was under the impression that sport climbing and a mess of bolts were REQUIRED for getting strong. You mean to tell me that the path to 5.13 does not require sport climbing?

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I am a so-called self proclaimed tradster. Admittingly though, I started climbing sport and progressed to trad. The simple fact about .14 trad and sport routes is that you have to have some genetic predisposition for cranking. When trad gets to be .13 there is still a wide variety of cracks and techniques. For instance I might be able to some day climb a 1.5 size crack like tricks are for kids because it mainly entails jamming but I'll never be able to crank off a route that is a tips crankfest. Many of the harder sections of el cap routes are facey moves that closely resemble the typical type moves found on hard sport climbs. For this reason sport climbers can easily transition into the world of hard trad if they are willing to take perhaps slightly bigger falls on more marginal protection. I do find it hard to believe that a man that had never placed a cam before could just go run up a .13 OW even if he had climbed .14d before.

 

The simple truth is that if you have "power to burn" then you'll be able to hang on longer and "figure out" the moves and techniques required to jam cracks, chickenwing, etc.

 

 

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