glassgowkiss Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 erik said: thanks for all the info... phil..i believe trundle was being sarcastic...and your input is very much welcomed! bob- is "polish sausage" like one of the am/pm hotdogs?? good for the 1st bite and then it keeps you up all night afterwards??/ something like that. they are very good routes btw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jja Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 glassgowkiss said: easy mixed routes. hey i just remember. above right hand "Rambles" back in 98 or 99 i did a couple of very cool pitches. after you finish righ line "Rambles" go up hill for about 20 minutes. there is another cliff with at least 3 lines. there was a very skinny "cigar" on the left side of that cliff. initial 5 m pour over a cave and during fa was maybe 30cm across at the base. "Polish Sausage" WI5 PG, 20m. don't sneaze, might fall off (if you know what i mean). rap off a big block at the top (double sling left in place) to the right of that line there are another lines (about 20m down the slope). there are several crack systems (good granit, natural pro). there are 2 mixed lines, in a true polish fassion mixed. bring set of cams, kb's, la or two stoppers and short screws. both are about 25m long and are about M4/M5 (depends how much ice). use a tree (sling left) to lower off. have fun! Hey bob, is this the area that is accessed by climbing a short 2+ pitch then a long annoying low angle ice pitch? If it is, that is where the mixed ice clinic was at last year's ice fest. Or am I thinking of the far "right-right" line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 Polish Sausage isshown on the INFAMOUS LILLOOET ICE MAP I got mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jja Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 Scan it and post an image dru, or is the INFAMOUS LILLOOET ICE MAP as real as the NEW SMITH ROCK GUIDE? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 i don't have a map scanner but I have 3 copies of the ice map including a waterproof one THANKS DON! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 i didn't go to the ice fest, so i can't answer that. i think i made a mistake, it is above a left hand line, long easy ice flow, usually wet, to a WI3 finish and a big, big tree. you can see that cliff above from the road, can't miss that one.sorry about the confusion, it was some time ago since i climbed in rambles area.from the big tree belay you can see the cliff thriugh the trees and it takes about 15-20 minutes to hike up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 bob's real problem = Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 lummox said: pm that shizzle to me. Here are the most obvious ones, that are easy to get to...I don't know all the names and shit, lots of the smaller lines don't have names. When you are hiking up the main trail, on the big wall where you turn to go up to th emummy climbs there are several "new"-since 2001 mixed lines, most put up by Pete Tapley. Some are on the far right and some on the far left. they can be TR'd and are moderate. Good mixed practice. G2 has a new line courtacy of Pete on the right side. Zack attack, Mummy 3, and the Big Sleep and Climb in Between in Flanders.. and loads of stuff on Unamed wall are some of the clasic nice mixed climbing in Hylaite. They are in the guide book. I have also heard of new mixed lines in East Hylaite in the Alpha-Omega cave, Palisade Falls, and near Champagne Cherbert. Winter Dance, Bull-Dog world, and Teenage Delinquant (cave under responsible family man) are some of the test peices that get done, put up by Alex and Pete. The bolts on Teenage Delinquant may be suspect, beware....equalized bolts in cobbles stuck in volcanic mud. Will Gad did the FA and called it M9-M10....very steep. Pine Creek has some good ones as well...Incubus and Succubus. Cooke City is the Vail of Montana, many new lines and many FA's waiting to be developed. And it has it's own version of the Fang. If you are going with mixed climbing in mind, give me a hollar and I will hook you up with Pete, he loves to share info and welcoms newcomers. Lambone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 erik said: bob's real problem = i wouldn't call that a problem . just a training regime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason_Martin Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 Philonius, Check your Private Messages. Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_m Posted December 6, 2003 Share Posted December 6, 2003 A little clarification--Gentle Groove was one of the TR routes (there are 5 TR anchors, not counting the bolted sport route on the far right) first set at Black Ice when we started developing the "crag" as a mixed/dry-tooling area for any interested people to use without scratching up a viable sport (or trad, either) crag. The route was retro-bolted for leading by one of the main developers of the crag this summer and led by him in October. I don't think it would be possible to lead that line on gear, though a couple of the right-hand routes have some cracks that would take gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trundle Posted December 6, 2003 Share Posted December 6, 2003 great info... thanks mike... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted December 6, 2003 Share Posted December 6, 2003 personally the day that scratching up slabby shite gets routine is the day climbing gets boring. it is all about the pucker factor baby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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