Alex Posted December 4, 2003 Share Posted December 4, 2003 went back to Black Ice drytooling crag this morning, and one of the lines has been lead bolted. Its fairly good climbing for the first half of the route til past the crux, then gets easier and less interesting to the top. Still, for those people who can't get up the M7s at Rap Wall, its a good way to get used to drytooling on lead. About M4. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted December 4, 2003 Share Posted December 4, 2003 (edited) ... Edited December 4, 2003 by Lambone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
assmonkey Posted December 4, 2003 Share Posted December 4, 2003 Is there a topo for this crag? There's mention of a couple routes in the new book, but I don't remember much detail. I definitely want to try out this mixed gig on easy terrain. Assmonkey is pretty sure he'd poke some new holes the ol' carcass on an M7! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 4, 2003 Author Share Posted December 4, 2003 assmonkey said: Is there a topo for this crag? There's mention of a couple routes in the new book, but I don't remember much detail. no. Jason and I were talking about how to put up topos of areas on wastateice.net today. I don't think it will happen before new years, but we plan on putting up some pics and topos for certain things before long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trundle Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 Why is this thread so heavily edited? I think Lummox had a valid point. I think that what Alex says happened up there warrants a question or two. 1. Was this an established line? Had it been lead climbed already, or just toproped? 2. Who retro-ed it? The FA? Was the FA asked? I’m not saying that it wasn’t appropriate, esp. if the line was just toproped previously or the FA put it up. Also, it is just an Exit 38 “park”. But it’s a pretty slippery slope. Wasn’t it just said that retroing a line on Denny would be inappropriate? What’s the diff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 trundle you are starting trouble. wear a helmet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason_Martin Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 This particular area was put up by a mountaineers ice climbing course to initiate their study of mixed climbing. The area actually went through some kind of review process before they put in a single bolt. They wanted to make sure they weren't going to be putting anything together that would ultimately be in the way of future sport climbing development. And believe me there will be no future sport climbing development around this crag. The rock is low angle and slabby which makes for some interesting drytooling. Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trundle Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 Jason. I respect your opinions and your book (which I did buy last night)… and I’m not convinced that anything wrong was done yet, but to play the devil’s (Lummox) advocate.. That is some interesting info on the background of the area, but doesn’t answer a single question of the above. Is it ok to bolt a previous line because it chossy, low-angle, slabby or run-out and because there isn’t going to be any sport climbing developed nearby? Or is it OK because it’s 38 and happens to be 10 miles away from “real” climbing? I’m a bolting advocate, and based on the info given, this makes even me nervous… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 Trundle, Lummox knows exactly why he was edited. We are nnot going to go there again. I will not let every good thread about mixed climbing turn into a bolt debate. If you have nothing but crap to contribute, expect you crap to end up in the garbage can, simple as that. Some people are actualy interested in mixed climbing, and would like to read a positive thread on it once in a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 Lambone said: Trundle, Lummox knows exactly why he was edited. We are nnot going to go there again. I will not let every good thread about mixed climbing turn into a bolt debate. If you have nothing but crap to contribute, expect you crap to end up in the garbage can, simple as that. Some people are actualy interested in mixed climbing, and would like to read a positive thread on it once in a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trundle Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 Lambone.. back off.. I am not looking for a spray-fest about bolts. I am not anti-bolt. I live near Exit 38 and most of my climbing is sport climbing on choss with too many bolts. Alex reported a climb that I have specific questions about. Yes, I am interested in the route. As a weak-ass ice/mixed climber, you might even find me on it. But I think that the questions still are valid and I would like a little history on it. Bolting is part of climbing. And so are the ethical and access issues that go along with it. You can’t edit that all away because you get to be a moderator on a website. Sticking your head in the sand is stupid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 Trundle – You are right that there are issues related to bolting. The answer to your questions may simply not be available. One thing that is for sure is that due to the behavior of many on this website a large number of climbers choose not to post here. Lummux was not addressing the issue in a serious manner instead he was being a jack ass. I think that the moderation of such behavior is essential to improve CC.com’s functionality as an information-clearing house. Thus the editing of this thread improves the chances of your current and future queries being answerable. Cheers, PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 boy. it would be fun to get lambone erik and peter-puget in the same room together. luv ya;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
assmonkey Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 The area actually went through some kind of review process before they put in a single bolt. They wanted to make sure they weren't going to be putting anything together that would ultimately be in the way of future sport climbing development. I'm not trolling, just curious: What exactly was this review process? Asking Leland if he was going to bolt the wall? Or is there actually something like a steering commitee that reviews new route development at 38? I can just imagine a group of mounties filling out a bolt request in triplicate that they submit to themselves for approval. Form 12B-2, "Ten Essentials for Bolting." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trundle Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 Not having an answer I can understand. The questions are still there. I also saw what Lummox wrote and didn’t feel that it was worthy of being deleted and it did ask the right question. It was overzealous to censor the questions that more than one of us had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 If up at Lillooet and a river of melt water is pouring down "Cherry Ice" WI2, you can bust out either right or left and climb M2 up surprisingly "solid for the area" ( you won't kill your belayer) rock to the belay. however you will still need screws for pro or tie off a few shrubs on the way cause the rock is too suck for good rock gear and probably too suck for bolts too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil K Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 Well if no one minds a bit of input from someone who actually knows a bit about the area's development... Yes , the Mountaineers are responsilble for bolting the area as part of their Water Ice course. (Flame on) Before doing any work on the area, others, including B Burdo were consulted, and the conclusion was that this dirty low angle slab was not going to be missed by the sport development crowd. The route in question was bolted for lead after it had been top roped, by the same people who did the initial development. It has been led, and given the name "Gentle Groove." There are a few other TR lines which can provide a decent way to crank a few mixed moves with reduced likelyhood of puncturing yourself. Apparently someone has put up a short, easy sport route over on the west edge of the crag. If this outrages you, perhaps your sense of perspective is askew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 5, 2003 Author Share Posted December 5, 2003 Trundle said: Why is this thread so heavily edited? I think Lummox had a valid point. The thread was edited immediately because I didnt want this thread to go down the bolt debate debacle that the Rap Wall thread went down not just a week ago. As far as I am concerned, Lummox is free to contribute his thoughts in an intelligent manner on this thread if he likes (which he didnt) or start a new thread on the merits of developing mixed areas (which he didnt). However, people need to contain their desire for useless sniper remarks or all-out-frenzy and keep that shit in spray, or I will just stop posting the information here like so many other people have stopped (you have no idea). I really enjoy sharing information with other climbers. That should be obvious. I dont particularly like seeing information in trip report forums get buried in a pile of childish remarks. If you have an opinion, I welcome it in a constructive manner. If you can't do it that way, then (as Ray says) where is that can of shut the fuck up? Trundle said: I think that what Alex says happened up there warrants a question or two. 1. Was this an established line? Had it been lead climbed already, or just toproped? Yes, it was an established top rope anchor already. I have no idea if its been lead on natural gear, if that is what you are asking. I highly doubt it. Trundle said: 2. Who retro-ed it? The FA? Was the FA asked? See Philonius' post above. Jason and I didn not recieve a FA credit for it. No one indivudual has taken credit for the development of this crag. Trundle said: Also, it is just an Exit 38 “park”. But it’s a pretty slippery slope. Wasn’t it just said that retroing a line on Denny would be inappropriate? What’s the diff? NPI, I'm sure. I think people around here are all too aware of the bolting issues, and for that reason its been attempted to contain some of this new mixed climbing development to areas "reserved" for it where the impact on other climbers and other users would be minimal. Balck Ice is an attempt to contain peoples need to scratch up a chunk of stone to a place where it will not be noticed by other users. If you will take a few hours to visit the area, you will understand much better why this particular crag was chosen. It really is very low impact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trundle Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 Alex, thank for the info. I will be checking it out for fun anyway. Your input has been helpful here and in many threads. Philonius, get over yourself. Your information is interesting, but lose the hostility. I am only questioning the situation. The only thing that I have said is bogus is the editing that I thought was over the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 Alex said: Lummox is free to contribute his thoughts in an intelligent manner on this thread if he likes (which he didnt) or start a new thread on the merits of developing mixed areas (which he didnt). Yes, it was an established top rope anchor already. I have no idea if its been lead on natural gear, if that is what you are asking. I highly doubt it. ostrich syndrome. i could give a shit about retro-bolting crap routes but i do give a shit about lying. and omission is a form of lying imho. glad you cleared that up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 (edited) easy mixed routes. hey i just remember. above right hand "Rambles" back in 98 or 99 i did a couple of very cool pitches. after you finish righ line "Rambles" go up hill for about 20 minutes. there is another cliff with at least 3 lines. there was a very skinny "cigar" on the left side of that cliff. initial 5 m pour over a cave and during fa was maybe 30cm across at the base. "Polish Sausage" WI5 PG, 20m. don't sneaze, might fall off (if you know what i mean). rap off a big block at the top (double sling left in place) to the right of that line there are another lines (about 20m down the slope). there are several crack systems (good granit, natural pro). there are 2 mixed lines, in a true polish fassion mixed. bring set of cams, kb's, la or two stoppers and short screws. both are about 25m long and are about M4/M5 (depends how much ice). use a tree (sling left) to lower off. have fun! Edited December 5, 2003 by glassgowkiss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil K Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 Trundle said: Philonius, get over yourself. Your information is interesting, but lose the hostility. Hostility? Ouch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 thanks for all the info... phil..i believe trundle was being sarcastic...and your input is very much welcomed! bob- is "polish sausage" like one of the am/pm hotdogs?? good for the 1st bite and then it keeps you up all night afterwards??/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 If anyone wants info on easy mixed routes in Hyalite, let me know and I'll send it to ya. There are alot of new bolted lines from M4-M7. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 pm that shizzle to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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