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Alasdair

Traversing Kahiltna Dome or Crossen

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Does anyone know if it is feasable to get to the north side of Foraker by Traversing over Kahiltna Dome or Mt. Crossen? By feasable I mean traverse in a safe manner down the north or north west slopes of these mountains.

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To do the standard NE Ridge of Foraker you climb Crosson anyway and then continue up the ridge. The best way to get to the north side would be to get flown in there.

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It is possible to climb Crosson, traverse to peak 12,472 (the next peak to the west), then descend west down the ridge to the Foraker Glacier. This was the path that was taken to climb the route Full Circle on the north face of Foraker. The approach is apparently safe and straightforward. Climbing up and over Kahiltna Dome lands you on the Straightaway Glacier, which doesn't connect with the Foraker massif. Flying to the Foraker glacier is not allowed because it is in the national park (and probably not even possible for that matter.) The closest fly in point on the north side is 40+ miles from Foraker, on a small lake (I forget the name.)

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Alasdair, I've climbed Crosson and its not unsafe. Only the last 500 feet or so are anything more than a ridge walk. You have to be really fast though to make it worth your while, however.

 

Alex

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Check the 1998 AAJ pg.209-211 for an account of Rod and Stuart's climb. They were the first to use this descent route to climb Full Circle. There is a great picture and map as well.

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