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Alex

Alpental conditions 11-22-03

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went out and played in alpental valley. was hoping for a clear day, it turned out to be ok in the am, then clouded over and got colder by the early afternoon.

 

nothing in the lower valley is in, though things are trying to form. two dudes we met under Alpental Falls (Alpental 1) said that it had been in much better shape 2 weeks ago.

 

we proceeded to the source lake bowl, and traversed past a forming source lake line (looking like it might get fat this year) to the start of "Thin Slice" (a route not in guide, but will be online at wastateice.net shortly). After floundering around in the deep snow trying to approach the upper pitches, we bailed and joined some others we knew at the Rap Wall. Good time was had by all.

 

 

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Yep, the Rap Wall was looking fun. What was up with the ice-encrusted fixed-looking red rope, though? Anyone?

 

That area is getting popular, when I came through on skis there were at least 10 people in the immediate vicinity. bigdrink.gif to all.

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cracked said:

Yep, the Rap Wall was looking fun. What was up with the ice-encrusted fixed-looking red rope, though? Anyone?

 

Its a new anchor for a fourth route on that wall. I believe the rope is actually Roger S's. We knocked and scraped the ice off it and TRed the route, it was fun, around M7-.

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Alex,

 

Do you know, is it a standard practice for ropes to be left on that wall? If so, why?

 

(I'm not trolling for a fight or anything... just curious).

 

Cheers,

Steve

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Stephen_Ramsey said:

Do you know, is it a standard practice for ropes to be left on that wall? If so, why?

 

There are still routes being developed on this wall and fixed lines have been left in some locations to impliment the continued work on this and other walls in the area.

 

If you see a climb with tape on the bolts DO NOT climb the route. The people who have put in the bolts get first dibs on these routes. It means that they have not yet been climbed by the people who put in the bolts and should not be climbed until the red flagging on the bolts is removed.

 

Jason

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Jason,

 

OK, thanks. Appreciate the info. Looks like a great resource is being developed, for mixed climbing enthusiasts.

 

If you see a climb with tape on the bolts DO NOT climb the route. The people who have put in the bolts get first dibs on these routes. It means that they have not yet been climbed by the people who put in the bolts and should not be climbed until the red flagging on the bolts is removed.

No worries, Jason. It's not like I could climb an M7, in this or any alternate Universe. :-) But I hear what you are saying about the red tape. Good to know.

 

Cheers,

Steve

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Stephen_Ramsey said:

Do you know, is it a standard practice for ropes to be left on that wall? If so, why?

 

On this route in particular, its because there are currently no lead bolts in place, only an anchor, and approaching the routes from above or from another anchor is tedious and dangerous.

 

There is another route in the area (to the right, on Bryant Buttress where Hotline forms) that also has a rope and draws in place. This is a redpoint project.

 

Here are some pictures from Saturday

 

67RapWall-med.JPG

Rap Wall

 

292M6.jpg

The route and rope Stephen Ramsey was asking about.

 

292salidaM7_.jpg

TimL on the exit moves of the center route.

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If you see a climb with tape on the bolts DO NOT climb the route. The people who have put in the bolts get first dibs on these routes. It means that they have not yet been climbed by the people who put in the bolts and should not be climbed until the red flagging on the bolts is removed.

 

 

This is within reason in my opinion, Jason. If someone is putting up a project and does not complete it within one season's time (there are exceptions of course) then I say it is free game, especially if all the gear is in and all that is left is a redpoint, which the setter has left to do in the "next couple of seasons" for example. They may have put money into the hardware and so deserve a crack at the rout first off, but if I see red tape on a finished route for more than one season, it becomes fair game. I do have to say that this is an exception rather than the norm as most people who put up routes can do them and are psyched to do them, hence why they put them up in the first place.

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Jason_Martin said:

Stephen_Ramsey said:

Do you know, is it a standard practice for ropes to be left on that wall? If so, why?

 

There are still routes being developed on this wall and fixed lines have been left in some locations to impliment the continued work on this and other walls in the area.

 

If you see a climb with tape on the bolts DO NOT climb the route. The people who have put in the bolts get first dibs on these routes. It means that they have not yet been climbed by the people who put in the bolts and should not be climbed until the red flagging on the bolts is removed.

 

Jason

 

Hmm. That's odd confused.gif I didn't see that one in my mounties climbing book.

 

Since nobody owns the rock there then let's be realistic and call it a free for all. None of this my beach, my wave bullshit.

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Red tagging is well established in sport climbing circles, and, IMHO, it transfers to sport mixed, too. Fixed ropes are an eyesore far beyond bolts, hopefully they won't become a regular occurence.

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knock yourself out. the last guy that got on the route got a heel spur through an arm. howzzat for anarchy?

 

pitty.gif

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ryland_moore said:

This is within reason in my opinion, Jason. If someone is putting up a project and does not complete it within one season's time (there are exceptions of course) then I say it is free game, especially if all the gear is in and all that is left is a redpoint, which the setter has left to do in the "next couple of seasons" for example. They may have put money into the hardware and so deserve a crack at the rout first off, but if I see red tape on a finished route for more than one season, it becomes fair game. I do have to say that this is an exception rather than the norm as most people who put up routes can do them and are psyched to do them, hence why they put them up in the first place.

 

These routes are brand spanking new and the guy who put them up deserves a couple of weeks to get up them. He's doing a great service by putting in these routes and I think we should at least give him to the end of this season.

 

If it helps, some of these new climbs may be the hardest in the state. The guy working on them says they're probably hard M10.

 

Jason

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Alex said:

knock yourself out. the last guy that got on the route got a heel spur through an arm. howzzat for anarchy?

 

pitty.gif

 

I see you are so smarty pants. Just because climber get hurt doesn't mean shit moron. What your point anyway?

 

My point is fair game. You can't reserve seating when the dinner is serve full of bolts in rock the_finger.gif

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Chockstone said:

blah blah blah doesn't mean shit moron. My point is blah blah blah

rolleyes.gif

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Chockstone said:

Hmm. That's odd confused.gif I didn't see that one in my mounties climbing book.

 

I see you are so smarty pants. Just because you make fun of poor hapless Mounties doesnt mean shit moron. What is your point anyway?

 

My point is that you are just uneducated. No one really cares that much about whether you think the shit is free game or not if you poach routes, just like no one cared what Ken Nichols point was after he started chopping the shit out of the East Coast. the_finger.gif

 

This thread really has no point at this point, so after this point the thread will pointlessly be pointed in the Spray direction.

 

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Alex said:

Chockstone said:

Hmm. That's odd confused.gif I didn't see that one in my mounties climbing book.

 

I see you are so smarty pants. Just because you make fun of poor hapless Mounties doesnt mean shit moron. What is your point anyway?

 

My point is that you are just uneducated. No one really cares that much about whether you think the shit is free game or not if you poach routes, just like no one cared what Ken Nichols point was after he started chopping the shit out of the East Coast. the_finger.gif

 

This thread really has no point at this point, so after this point the thread will pointlessly be pointed in the Spray direction.

 

I refer mounties book because that is rule I know read in America. Nothing more. Then some guy like you create new rule at every city state. Expect each man to figure out this when visit for a while.

 

I dont give Nickols or even know who they are. What it have to do here in Seattle?

 

Stray from point to make a point of no point.

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Isn't this just tremendous? Sport climbing in the mountains. Jeeeesh. And on top of that, we are advised to remember that these guys are doing us a favor, beating back the wilderness with a mighty hammer and marking the path with a shiny bolt trail so that nobody gets lost. So, don't mess with their abandoned trash....I mean, gear.

 

PATHETIC. Really. thumbs_down.gif

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Chockstone said:

I refer mounties book because that is rule I know read in America. Nothing more. Then some guy like you create new rule at every city state. Expect each man to figure out this when visit for a while.

 

Alright. I'll give you the benefit of a doubt and actually believe you are just visiting from out of town. My guess is you are just Dru, but whatever.

 

The Mountaineers book of "rules" is one organization's world view. It doesnt cover everything, nor does it represent the climbing community.

 

It's common courtesy to let the person who set the route try to redpoint it before publishing information about the route, its suggested rating, or its location. This is true for new route development everywhere in the United States and Canada.

 

wave.gif

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pope said:

Isn't this just tremendous?

 

Oh go crawl back to your sunny trad climb, pope!

cry.gifcry.gifcry.gifcry.gif

 

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read mounty book best in Amerika. only rule i know.

i come to city state follow you rule? no!

please run from point to no point in telling me about dinner of rock on plate. Strong.

 

 

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