Alex Posted November 25, 2003 Author Share Posted November 25, 2003 Only bolted routes. Crack routes/traditional routes are up for grabs by anyone and anytime because there is little/no investment in time (cleaning/drilling) or equipment (hangers, studs, chains). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chockstone Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 mvs said: read mounty book best in Amerika. only rule i know. i come to city state follow you rule? no! please run from point to no point in telling me about dinner of rock on plate. Strong. Anarcky! Yes you see what I speak on my side not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chockstone Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 Maybe they should not leave bolt on rock for rest of world. Solution find simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 chockstone straight up guy. get to meat of issue. why not poach redpoint? I will poach, then pay he who put bolts a bounty. here you are, I say. Have five amerikan dollars. I laugh! and laugh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chockstone Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 No poach. Man leave bolt. Now it in free land in America no? He leave bolt after he climb too. No seperate thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 you guys are just juvie morons. fucking wankers. whoever poaches project is a fuckwad wanker. whoever doesn't agree with my statement is a fucking wanker. and pope- just go fucking flash all these routes, show us how it's done or shut your yapping gob the fuck up. you piss me off more then anybody on this site. you are a dolt, lame wanker and i can outclimb you anytime. you are pathetic weak wankstain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 glasgowkiss rules! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 Ahh yes, internet shit talking, every big man's favorite past time! Anyway, it's funny, keep it coming boys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chockstone Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 glassgowkiss said: you guys are just juvie morons. fucking wankers. whoever poaches project is a fuckwad wanker. whoever doesn't agree with my statement is a fucking wanker. and pope- just go fucking flash all these routes, show us how it's done or shut your yapping gob the fuck up. you piss me off more then anybody on this site. you are a dolt, lame wanker and i can outclimb you anytime. you are pathetic weak wankstain. Weakstain is your face after porn star cum on your face stupid wank. I see thet no morals are here. You make rule of shit like yur face. I am happ to make you pice of shit like yu make to yourself. All claim is make rule when bolts in rock. I have piece of diahreah for glassgowshithead face. I argu good point and yu come back with shit responce. It fun to cee you have fan. Feel better now? You stupid just like other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted November 27, 2003 Share Posted November 27, 2003 Am I correct to assume that every square inch of Exit 38 has been bolted, and this is why it is necessary to export the dubious practice of sport climbing to the mountains? Or is it that a bunch of bolt clippers decided they wanted to play at mountain climbing, and since they were smart enough to figure out how to get crampons on their boots ....and that's about it......they decided to "MAKE THE MOUNTAINS SAFE FOR SPORT CLIMBERS"? Shame, shame, shame. Shame on you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted November 27, 2003 Share Posted November 27, 2003 Do you even lead ice these days, let alone mixed routes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfort Posted November 27, 2003 Share Posted November 27, 2003 JayB you have the best avatar image on this site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted November 27, 2003 Share Posted November 27, 2003 hey pope just to note these sport climbers who are bolting the mtns for safety are some of the best climbers in the state period. way better then you could ever dream of being. these bolters have established impressive alpine routes ground up on several continents. have climbed many a5 routes, .12 & .13 gear and sport routes, been successful in patagonia. what is your contribution to climbing? a bolted crack at lworth and some squeeze job contrivence face route? whoopy! you really sould leave dwayner's ass sometime and see what the rest of the world has been up to since 1985. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted November 28, 2003 Share Posted November 28, 2003 That's a pretty impressive resume. Who are these bolters? It's not Wallstein up bolting stuff up at Source Lake is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted November 28, 2003 Share Posted November 28, 2003 pope said: Am I correct to assume that every square inch of Exit 38 has been bolted, and this is why it is necessary to export the dubious practice of sport climbing to the mountains? Or is it that a bunch of bolt clippers decided they wanted to play at mountain climbing, and since they were smart enough to figure out how to get crampons on their boots ....and that's about it......they decided to "MAKE THE MOUNTAINS SAFE FOR SPORT CLIMBERS"? Shame, shame, shame. Shame on you. look you psycho- ass puke puff. you aid-gabage dead animal raper. i am sure you smoked all the local clasic solo and then you moved on to canada and sent all the hard lines there too. i am sure you did os every route on ww1 wall, you can solo every m8 and wi6+ is just a stroll in a park for you. so what is exactly YOUR contribution to climbing? all i hear is you camplain about bolts. so why don't you show us how it should be done? why don't you go and put up some 5.13XXX? i forgot- you don't climb. you just wank. fuck you and fuck your spew. you are just another throat callus sloafing jizz gurgler. why don't you shove i big donkey kong up your gob and another up your rectum you miserable waste of human skin. now i feel better..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted November 28, 2003 Share Posted November 28, 2003 glassgowkiss said: look you psycho- ass puke puff. you aid-gabage dead animal raper. i am sure you smoked all the local clasic solo and then you moved on to canada and sent all the hard lines there too. i am sure you did os every route on ww1 wall, you can solo every m8 and wi6+ is just a stroll in a park for you. so what is exactly YOUR contribution to climbing? all i hear is you camplain about bolts. so why don't you show us how it should be done? why don't you go and put up some 5.13XXX? i forgot- you don't climb. you just wank. fuck you and fuck your spew. you are just another throat callus sloafing jizz gurgler. why don't you shove i big donkey kong up your gob and another up your rectum you miserable waste of human skin. now i feel better..... Happy Thanksgiving! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted November 28, 2003 Share Posted November 28, 2003 (edited) JayB said: Do you even lead ice these days, let alone mixed routes? Not recently. It's dangerous. I have children. But I'll bet I know how....and I'll bet you know that. And what has this to do with bringing sport climbing to the mountains? Next time, please ask a relevant question. Edited November 28, 2003 by pope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted November 28, 2003 Share Posted November 28, 2003 erik said: hey pope just to note these sport climbers who are bolting the mtns for safety are some of the best climbers in the state period. way better then you could ever dream of being. these bolters have established impressive alpine routes ground up on several continents. have climbed many a5 routes, .12 & .13 gear and sport routes, been successful in patagonia. These facts are relevant because......? Unless you're suggesting that a climber who is successful in Patagonia has license to make a messy bolt trail in the Cascades, I don't understand why you're reporting these facts. Also, if by "climbs 5.13" you mean that he/she regularly on-sights gear routes at this grade, I am very impressed. But I doubt that's what you mean. Only a small number of people in the world have done that even once and I doubt you know them. erik said: what is your contribution to climbing? a bolted crack at lworth and some squeeze job contrivence face route? whoopy! you really sould leave dwayner's ass sometime and see what the rest of the world has been up to since 1985. You're spreading lies. I didn't bolt a crack in Leavenworth. You obviously haven't done the route. I know what the world has been up to since 1985. I started climbing in 1984, probably about the time you were still dropping pencils in order to get a glimpse up your elementary school teacher's skirt. My contribution to climbing: I've climbed for nearly 20 years without making a mess, I've taught others to climb, and I've done whatever I can to discourage the spread of bolt rash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted November 28, 2003 Share Posted November 28, 2003 (edited) JayB said: Do you even lead ice these days, let alone mixed routes? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Not recently. It's dangerous. I have children. But I'll bet I know how....and I'll bet you know that. And what has this to do with bringing sport climbing to the mountains? Next time, please ask a relevant question. pope, the question is very relevant. you are voicing your opinion on the subject you know nothing about. you also stated you started climbing in 1984, so what? i started climbing in 1980, which gives me better perspective then you have. newsfalsh punter- things change, get on with it. just because some forms of climbing don't fit your vision doesn't mean they are less or more legit. there is plenty of route potencial, for all styles. notice these climbs are on a small cliff and not in the alpine terain? so where is the problem? anyway, to argue with you any further would be a complete waste of my time, so i am out of this. Edited November 28, 2003 by glassgowkiss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted November 28, 2003 Share Posted November 28, 2003 glassgowkiss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted November 28, 2003 Share Posted November 28, 2003 Pope dude, I've backed your stances on plenty of issues in the past. This won't be one of them. I don't know whether you're just trolling to get a rise outta people or you truly believe your BS. Look, there are many "styles" or "disicplines" of climbing. Just as Smith is a bolted sport haven and Indian Creek is a trad mecca, each area has it's own niche. I'd be the first to scream when someone retrobolts trad lines in a trad area. I'd be whining if people were bolting trad/mixed lines in the mountains. BUT, get some perspective man. It's a mixed cragging area. It's not like it's some killer 1000m alpine line that people are salivating over. It's a dinky ass little cliff where people can go get strong and practice hard mixed climbing in safety. Personally, I wouldn't waste the time bolting it because it looks like it's easy enough to set a TR. But, some people enjoy "leading" this stuff and I'd wager it's better to be "leading" on the bolts than punching holes in your rope while trying to TR it. It also appears that some of the lines are pretty overhanging and a TR fall from below halfway might put you on the ground. That's not something most people will want to face when they're out there to train in what is essentially an outdoor mixed climbing gym. That type of climbing is not my bag, but neither is Smith...so I don't go there. Just don't retrobolt my trad lines, and I'm a happy dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted November 28, 2003 Share Posted November 28, 2003 why will? if anything, this should be more frowned upon than @ 38. if i wanna make a mixed line up prussik... is that copasthetic? just cause the routes are hard doesn't make it ok. lemme know, cause i got a sweet 7 pitch M9 i wanna put up on SCW. i need donations for the approx 450 bolts i will place. send donations to www.verticalmanifestdestiny.com thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted November 29, 2003 Share Posted November 29, 2003 Scott, maybe you misread my post. I don't care if it's hard, that's not the point. My point was that it's some rinky dink ass little craggin cliff, NOT some big mixed alpine line that someone will covet as a "worthy" ascent. You wanna put up mixed stuff on Prussik, cool man, just leave the bolts at home and do it in a proud style. My view...and that's all it is, MY view, is that if someone wants to practice mixed climbing on some inconsequential cliff and they feel the need to bolt it...go ahead, IF it's not established as a ground-up only area already. Would I rather them not bolt it? Sure. Do I care? Not much, it doesn't intrude on my experience, and unless there are people that were looking to do those lines ground up, it's not intruding on anyone else's experience either. I think sport-bolted routes (mixed, rock, or whatever) make climbing the equivalent of an outdoor gym...that's a big reason why sport climbing doesn't appeal to me. I won't deny that it's a great way to get strong, but to me it's pointless other than as a training activity. That said, it's pretty hard to train mixed climbing indoors...unless you own a three story meat locker or something. Something has to give somewhere. So I guess I'd rather have them get strong on some bolted little training cliff and then take the skillz to da hillz to climb something big and proud without the bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted November 29, 2003 Share Posted November 29, 2003 (edited) willstrickland said: Pope dude, I've backed your stances on plenty of issues in the past. This won't be one of them. I don't know whether you're just trolling to get a rise outta people or you truly believe your BS. Right. I'm really bored, and I need some attention, so I'm just trying to get a reaction. Look, there are many "styles" or "disicplines" of climbing. Just as Smith is a bolted sport haven and Indian Creek is a trad mecca, each area has it's own niche. It really does take a village. I'd be the first to scream when someone retrobolts trad lines in a trad area. I'd be whining if people were bolting trad/mixed lines in the mountains. The cliff in question is in the mountains. It is located in a high-use area enjoyed by winter recreationalists who are trying to find a little wilderness just an hour or so from Seattle. BUT, get some perspective man. It's a mixed cragging area. It's not like it's some killer 1000m alpine line that people are salivating over. It's a dinky ass little cliff where people can go get strong and practice hard mixed climbing in safety. Why should I care if people want to get strong? I have nothing against people getting strong, but it doesn't affect me one way or the other. Personally, I wouldn't waste the time bolting it because it looks like it's easy enough to set a TR. Sounds like these guys can get strong on a TR, without leaving a bunch of bolt trails. This is my objection. But, some people enjoy "leading" this stuff and I'd wager it's better to be "leading" on the bolts than punching holes in your rope while trying to TR it. Thanks for the quotes on "leading". These guys would like to feel like they are leading with nearly the same level of safety as could be found on top-rope. Weird. It also appears that some of the lines are pretty overhanging and a TR fall from below halfway might put you on the ground. That's not something most people will want to face when they're out there to train in what is essentially an outdoor mixed climbing gym. That type of climbing is not my bag, but neither is Smith...so I don't go there. Just don't retrobolt my trad lines, and I'm a happy dude. Smith was once free of the bolt trails that you hope won't show up at your favorite trad climb. A generation of climbers now have only sport climbing as their reference point and see nothing wrong with bolting in the mountains (or at your favorite trad cliff). Recently on this site I read bits of a discussion in which one bolt enthusiast stated that Europe had long bolted alpine sport climbs and he couldn't wait until it happened here. Wake up, Will. Edited November 29, 2003 by pope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted November 29, 2003 Share Posted November 29, 2003 All this fuss about a few bits of metal in a chossy 25 foot cliff in the middle of a valley choked by a ski area, millions of snowshoers, ancient garbage dumps, etc, etc. Pope, I'd say you're barking up the wrong tree. Get that environmentalism attitude and aim it at the ski lifts and the snowmobiles. How about the hordes of snowshoes gapers that piss on the trail and contaminate the water supply? How about hillside erosion? Get political, get the mountains shut down, there are far bigger demons to battle other than bolts. Get with it, man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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