TrogdortheBurninator Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 I think I tried to cross over left hand onto some thin sloping crimper, then move right hand way out to a decent hold. If that move were at 38 or Vantage, it would be 10c/d in my opinon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 STFUN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbuktu Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 Hey MCash, Tangled up in Blue is sweet, but just to the right of it I think is the ultimate wantage sandbag - ponykeg. It gets pretty offwidth at the top dontcha think. I've heard many a sprayer claim that Air Guitar is noticeably easier. Try it without clipping the hanger. Sowweeeeet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbuktu Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 LMBTIJIYFB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 Hey MCash, Tangled up in Blue is sweet, but just to the right of it I think is the ultimate wantage sandbag - ponykeg. It gets pretty offwidth at the top dontcha think. I've heard many a sprayer claim that Air Guitar is noticeably easier. Try it without clipping the hanger. Sowweeeeet! Â Ponykeg is Sandbagged? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 LMBTIJIYFB Â EB,A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 (edited) Hey MCash, Tangled up in Blue is sweet, but just to the right of it I think is the ultimate wantage sandbag - ponykeg. It gets pretty offwidth at the top dontcha think. I've heard many a sprayer claim that Air Guitar is noticeably easier. Try it without clipping the hanger. Sowweeeeet! Â Ponykeg is Sandbagged? vantage sandbag...now i've heard everything! Â of course it is...if you don't know how to do a particular style of climbing its "sandbagged" (like ow)...its similar to the first time you get on a route it really has a harder rating, really it does... Â peeps need to trek to home base (the ditch) for a taste of what "benchmark" levels are...pretty soon ex38 will be the standard Edited May 27, 2005 by RuMR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 calamity jam, the lieback section near the start heading left. Â Calamity certainly spanked me! That's the hardest move I've had to pull on lead. It made me wish my fingers were much smaller so I could actually lieback through the whole thing!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 peeps need to trek to home base (the ditch) for a taste of what "benchmark" levels are  taking notes on what the cool term for yos is this year... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted July 14, 2006 Share Posted July 14, 2006 "The Ditch" has been in use for quite some time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_m Posted July 14, 2006 Share Posted July 14, 2006 Phone Calls From the Dead (11b) @ index. that mantle to the chains is fricking HARD! Yep - climber cleanly till the last move then fell off again and again and again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Posted July 16, 2006 Share Posted July 16, 2006 I did Alley Oop Chimney in 1986 and made a note in my Carlstad & Brooks guidebook that I used one point of aid. I remeber it was way hard, and I was leading 5.9s back then. So, yes, I agree it is sandbagged! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted July 16, 2006 Share Posted July 16, 2006 I did Alley Oop Chimney in 1986 and made a note in my Carlstad & Brooks guidebook that I used one point of aid. I remeber it was way hard, and I was leading 5.9s back then. So, yes, I agree it is sandbagged! Â Dwayner introduced me to Alley Oop Chimney....probably 1989. I got frustrated and bailed. Then I climbed Bomb Shelter (with one enormous flight out into space when I peeled off the lay back section) which seemed less chalenging. I can't remember the grade on Alley Oop but I do remember feeling humbled. Maybe a big lunge is the secret. Â Carlstad/Brooks is still a great guide. Most Leavenworth routes not found in that guide aren't worth doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 what about this  http://www.mountainproject.com/v/washington/index_town_walls/lower_wall/106165850 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 If anyone has the beta for Hindquarters, I'll take it too. It's been a couple years since I tried it, but at the time that bulge seemed like an enigma. Â If I remember correctly: Â Get your left hand solid. Move your feet left. Push and reach faaar right. Seems hard for 5.10a, but the rest of the route seems easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 I've always thought Breakfast of Champions was kind of hard for the .10a rating. Â Â BoC is 10.a? I thought it was more like 10.c. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 I've always thought Breakfast of Champions was kind of hard for the .10a rating. Â Â BoC is 10.a? I thought it was more like 10.c. Â Come on, overhanging rattly fingers is not more than 5.9. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 -snip- I felt that the rating was entirely reasonable for a tr, but leading it left me feeling 10b, easily. -snip- I normally don't play "pile on the new guy" but this statement bothers me, and I've been hearing a lot of this crap lately. Â The rating of a climb has nothing to do with it's protection. It only has to do with the difficulty of a climb. The "R", "X", "PG13", or :: speak to the available protection. Â If it feels 5.9 on toprope, it's 5.9. You don't need a harder grade in a book to lead it, you need bigger balls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 B.O.C. is solid 10a. No way 10b nor 10c. I think it feels about the same as other 10a's in Index. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 And BoC is definitely nothing more than 10a! Sheesh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 BoC is... BoC. All you need to know is that it is a steep widening hand crack that protects well. The rest you can figure out for yourself. Â I'm sure the sportos who brought you 7 distinct letter grades could even come up with a special term for when you 'onsight' something for which you may not know the precise consensus grade to 3 decimal places. Â But for the sake of promoting immensely entertaining threads like this one, let's instead randomly change the rating on every climb by a 'full grade' every year, so that we always have something to bitch and moan about. Next year's thread: "Softest Index wussroutes!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 B.O.C. is solid 10a. No way 10b nor 10c. I think it feels about the same as other 10a's in Index. Â It's a sight easier than Karate Crack (10a). It's just more burly than technical. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 anything within two letter grades isn't that big of a sandbag. Â What about heinous Bosch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 I think it feels about the same as other 10a's in Index. Â Enough said..... Â Â It's a sight easier than Karate Crack (10a). Â I disagree.....Karate Crack would be 5.9 in the Valley..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 It's a sight easier than Karate Crack (10a). Â I disagree.....Karate Crack would be 5.9 in the Valley..... Â Â 10b in the valley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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