mattp Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 Yeah, and on Breakfast she still gets the no hands rest slight up from that "hands" rest stop. It is still hard, though.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 Crackbolter said: Crux pitch of Susu is sandbagged  so what do you feel it is? (i assume you mean sisu)  i always felt the 2nd pitch of godzilla (the start off the ledge) was harder than advertized but i am kinda short Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackbolter Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 I can't really give an honest grade. I didn't lead it. Â On toprope it felt like .12 something. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 i thought sisu was hella easier than swim!! Especially for the same rating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackbolter Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 Yes but was it sandbag? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 no...i think .11d for index is right on...its in the range of stuff like full iron horse and shirley...a bit harder than jap gardens... Â remember conversion factor... Â .11d-->12a/b or b at squamish...that's about right, don't you think?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 First pitch of Blownout Direct at Beacon is kinda sandbagged. It's not hard, and has fixed pins, but it is weird and awkward for something that looks so straightforward. Man, I miss Beacon...it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackbolter Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 RuMR said: no...i think .11d for index is right on...its in the range of stuff like full iron horse and shirley...a bit harder than jap gardens... Â remember conversion factor... Â .11d-->12a/b or b at squamish...that's about right, don't you think?? Â No, I do belive it feels like .12 something. Even in comparison to other .11d routes at Index. Â Just my humble opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 (edited) Crackbolter said: Yes but was it sandbag? Â when i did the climb, it seemed about right to me but what do i know (a bit sustained may be). i am not sure i can discriminate within one letter grade anyway. cool pitch though. Edited November 21, 2003 by j_b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 could be a size thing...i'm short...might pack in to the holds better... Â Swim is awesome!!! But that first pitch was rough for me...the rest of it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bird Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 The V2 next to Royal Flush is a V3 for sure. I saw one guide called it a V1! Â I swear the layback start to Toxic Shock is a little bit harder than 5.9. It is really short, wich is probably why it is not graded harder, but it is a total barndoor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 Sagitarius is a sandbag for me. It's a really cool climb, for sure, with good pro and interesting cruxes, but not a good lead for a "I can climb 5.10 in the gym" climber, as there is much jamming, scumming, grunting and bloodying of knees. Â Erik, the prince of Index calls it Sagi-scary-ous. Â If an arrogant French (is this redundant?) climber were walking round the base of the LTW, I would tell him to climb Sagitarius. "mon ami, c'est le Index experience...you must try it... a perfect warm up to City Park..." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 a visiting French climber would shred lowertownwall... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bird Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 Matt said: Sagitarius is a sandbag for me. It's a really cool climb, for sure, with good pro and interesting cruxes, but not a good lead for a "I can climb 5.10 in the gym" climber, as there is much jamming, scumming, grunting and bloodying of knees. Â Erik, the prince of Index calls it Sagi-scary-ous. Â If an arrogant French (is this redundant?) climber were walking round the base of the LTW, I would tell him to climb Sagitarius. "mon ami, c'est le Index experience...you must try it... a perfect warm up to City Park..." Â I haven't had the balls to lead this one yet. I have top-roped it. I think it is one of those climbs that it is not technically very difficult, but can be mentally devistating on lead. I have watched a few people lead it with serious difficulty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 I'll second the Lizard Chimney at Index and add that frickin Blockbuster thing. It spanks me every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 (edited) MisterE said: speaking of which - wedding day... Â No doubt my wedding day and marriage was a total sandbag! Edited November 21, 2003 by David_Parker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmcmurra Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 bird said: The V2 next to Royal Flush is a V3 for sure. I saw one guide called it a V1! Â Second that. and BOC and Sag. and Zoom and Saber. And, the route I've whined about multiple times before, "B.S." at L-worth. Still can't do the "5.6" move past the only bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 Where is the hardcore guy who comes flaming in here to say: bullshit, you pussies. You are a bunch of whiners. Index ratings are just fine - everywhere else is soft. I remember the old days when Angel was 5.7, while Damnation, and Outer Space were rated 5.8 -- those were ratings! And whadayameen about Toxic Shock. I see kids going up there, climbing the 5.5 Even Steven start, liebacking the handcrack, and saying they climbed 5.9. Climber's these days.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted November 22, 2003 Share Posted November 22, 2003 Al_Pine said: Minx if you got small hands then Breakfast of Champions must be perfect for you right at the bottom (crux) then turn into overhanging OW . No wonder you think it's hard!  Libra Crack is basically BOC without the extra 40 feet of overhanging handcrack. So if you really think Libra crack is a sandbag then BOC has gotta be on your list too.   Lizard Chimney? Anyone think that's a sandbag at 5.8? 5.8 is a pretty weird grade I guess.   right on the money w/BOC...the start is strenuous for me but goes reasonably well. the upper portion is some horrid combination of fists and whatever else i can jam in there kicks my ass  libra first couple moves always get me a little but pretty much that's perfect hands for me. love that crack!  that chimney is just funky...i haven't climbed it the same way twice and i think it's hard to grade an OW anyway sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 22, 2003 Share Posted November 22, 2003 I have like really tiny hands...seriously...I think i get by w/ pretty decent "cup" jams...they feel wicked solid???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted November 22, 2003 Share Posted November 22, 2003 do you have tiny hands as in finger length or skinny hands/fingers? for some reason i have ridiculously skinny hands. Â cupped...maybe one or two and the then onto fists definitely. Â green camalot is perfect hands for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted November 22, 2003 Share Posted November 22, 2003 minx said: green camalot is perfect hands for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted November 22, 2003 Share Posted November 22, 2003 Bullshit, you pussies. You are a bunch of whiners. Index ratings are just fine - everywhere else is soft. I remember the old days when Angel was 5.7, while Damnation, and Outer Space were rated 5.8 -- those were ratings! And whadayameen about Toxic Shock. I see kids going up there, climbing the 5.5 Even Steven start, liebacking the handcrack, and saying they climbed 5.9. Climber's these days... Â Couldn't resist the temptation, mattp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted November 22, 2003 Share Posted November 22, 2003 bird said: I haven't had the balls to lead this one [sagitarius] yet. I have top-roped it. I think it is one of those climbs that it is not technically very difficult, but can be mentally devistating on lead. I have watched a few people lead it with serious difficulty. Â You think that's maybe because of the lieback factor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 22, 2003 Share Posted November 22, 2003 green camalot???? Damn, you should be hiking 12 hand cracks!!!! HAHAHAHAH Lisa Gnade version 2.0 Release MINXY!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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