Jump to content

ice-etique


glassgowkiss

Recommended Posts

years ago it used to be different (now i sound like an old fart, which i am). fewer people going climbing, simple.

so this topic is dedicated to newbies and half brain morons out there, so read carefully.

the point of ice climbing is to get up on climbs not to bring them down. with modern tools you don't need to send a bunch of ice down, just swing gently, on popular climbs use hooks. if you peel a plate, please clean it!! fractured ice is so suck to climb on for the next party.

don't throw a rope for tr, unless you are 100% sure nobody is on the climb leading. last year some dolt moron went to set a tr on deeping wall and dropped two 60m ropes on my head, while i was leading madgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gif, not kool.

don't bring dogs to ice climbing area- they just don't belong there.

don't start climbing under another party, unless you are willing to take some ice chunks onto your helmet and shoulders. get up earlier, go do something else. but also don't sneak by another party, so you can get ahead.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 36
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

glassgowkiss said:

...get up earlier, go do something else. but also don't sneak by another party, so you can get ahead.

Or stay later.....one of the most memorable ice climbing experiences I've had was climbing the first pitch of ICBC by headlamp. We split it into two pitches so we could both take a turn leading in the dark.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

bigdrink.gif i agree with you, but in the recent couple of years i am more afraid on ice climbing weekend in lilloet then on alpine routes. i don't know if the iq of average throat callus soafer went down or what, but that's my take on things.

i just think if people used their brains more and worry about their egos less it would be much nicer to go climbing to popular areas.

btw with my new stickers on my helmet like fuck you you fucking fuck, porn star and show me your tits i made a lot of friends last sunday at grotto. now if someone can find me another sticker "smoke crack and warship satan" - that would be great

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cluck said:

How come dogs don't belong at ice climbing areas? Why is that different than bringing fido to the local rock crag? ... Or do you think dogs should keep away from rock climbing areas as well?

 

Because there is a shitload of icefall compared to rock fall. Dogs do not belong ice climbing.

also, if you climb below a party and you get hit by ANYTHING, it is ENTIRELY your fault. You are comprimizing(sp?) the safety of the party above by making them not bash as hard when they need too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cluck said:

How come dogs don't belong at ice climbing areas? Why is that different than bringing fido to the local rock crag? ... Or do you think dogs should keep away from rock climbing areas as well?

 

I stepped on my partners dog ice climbing once, punctured her leg with my crampon. It curled up behind me while I was belaying, trying to stay warm I guess, I didn't notice and stepped back.

 

I love dogs, but personaly I'd be afraid of hurting someone elses dog with crampons or falling ice. Mine won't come Ice climbing with me, dogs don't have any fun sitting around being cold all day...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

glassgowkiss said:

last year some dolt moron went to set a tr on deeping wall and dropped two 60m ropes on my head, while i was leading madgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gif, not kool.

 

Alex Lowe dropped a rope on my head in Bozeman once...I was pissed...but what could I say. I guess my point is that not-only dolt gumby climbers can be assholes...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cluck said:

How come dogs don't belong at ice climbing areas? Why is that different than bringing fido to the local rock crag? ... Or do you think dogs should keep away from rock climbing areas as well?

simple, dogs are not too aware what's above them. people are wering crampons, so what lambone is talking about happens often enough. plus i am agains dogs in climbing areas period. everyone's dog is the coolest animal by itself, get them into a group.... just look at smith on busy weekend. they get into pack for food, shit, beg when you eat....all sort of crap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

glassgowkiss said:

cluck said:

How come dogs don't belong at ice climbing areas? Why is that different than bringing fido to the local rock crag? ... Or do you think dogs should keep away from rock climbing areas as well?

simple, dogs are not too aware what's above them. people are wering crampons, so what lambone is talking about happens often enough. plus i am agains dogs in climbing areas period. everyone's dog is the coolest animal by itself, get them into a group.... just look at smith on busy weekend. they get into pack for food, shit, beg when you eat....all sort of crap.

whatever. free food is free food imo. dog is dark meat in case you were wondering.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lambone said:

glassgowkiss said:

last year some dolt moron went to set a tr on deeping wall and dropped two 60m ropes on my head, while i was leading madgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gif, not kool.

 

Alex Lowe dropped a rope on my head in Bozeman once...I was pissed...but what could I say. I guess my point is that not-only dolt gumby climbers can be assholes...

I'm sure there are people who maliciously drop ropes on other, I just haven't met them yet.

 

In my book, it's called a mistake. rolleyes.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm pretty much with Glasgow on the dogs. There have been a couple of times when I've actually enjoyed somebody else's dog being there, and sometimes people are able to bring their dog along without having it beg for food, lie down in the middle of the trail, or shit in the woods. But not very often. And think of the poor dog. Even the Siberian huskies that we had when I was a child wouldn't enjoy being tied to a tree at the base of an ice climb for several hours (set 'em up with a harness and they sure had a good time dragging a sled all over some horzontal ice and snow, though).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

buttcracked- you missed the point. it doesn't matter how good your intentions are. it's not good enough to yell "ROPE" and drop the thing. guy went up to set tr and in the meantime i was climbing on the route. his partner was standing and was bullshiting with some chick. so the guy above just shouted rope and with 2x60m mess rocks and sticks flew down straight onto my head. wazzup.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

glassgowkiss said:

buttcracked- you missed the point. it doesn't matter how good your intentions are. it's not good enough to yell "ROPE" and drop the thing. guy went up to set tr and in the meantime i was climbing on the route. his partner was standing and was bullshiting with some chick. so the guy above just shouted rope and with 2x60m mess rocks and sticks flew down straight onto my head. wazzup.gif

some homicides are more justified than others.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

glassgowkiss said:

cluck said:

How come dogs don't belong at ice climbing areas? Why is that different than bringing fido to the local rock crag? ... Or do you think dogs should keep away from rock climbing areas as well?

simple, dogs are not too aware what's above them. people are wering crampons, so what lambone is talking about happens often enough. plus i am agains dogs in climbing areas period. everyone's dog is the coolest animal by itself, get them into a group.... just look at smith on busy weekend. they get into pack for food, shit, beg when you eat....all sort of crap.

 

Cool. Personally, I don't mind having other people's dogs around the crag as long as they aren't distracting my belayer. I can see what you mean about the base of an ice route not being a pooch friendly place, though.

bigdrink.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cracked said:

Szyjakowski said:

dropping a rope on someone is just plain moronic no matter who it is...

crack one thing you should learn is when to stfu

Agreed, it's moronic. But it's not fair to call them an asshole. Sure, you have every right to be pissed. rolleyes.gif

 

dont get into this semantic bullshit. if you are not carefull enough when you are climbing that you endanger someone else, you ar an ass-hole. and so is alex lowe for doing it. i dont give a shit who you are. leading ice is not fucking around. what if you knocked the guy off and he took a 60 footer onto some shitty screw? when you progress past lowering off ice climbs to pose for chest beat shots then you can talk. smirk.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...