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jja

lillooet this weekend

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anyone want to go?

 

Text Forecast from Environment Canada

Lillooet: Issued 7.36 PM pst Tuesday 18 November 2003

Tonight .. Snow at times heavy. Accumulation 10 to 15 cm. Temperature steady near zero.

Wednesday .. Flurries. Temperature steady near plus 1.

Thursday .. Cloudy. 60 percent chance of flurries. Low minus 6. High minus 2.

Friday .. A mix of sun and cloud. Low minus 5. High minus 2.

Saturday .. Cloudy. Low minus 5. High zero.

 

 

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cracked said:

I would go but I've got a midterm on Monday. cry.gif

 

Post photos if you go, John! fruit.gif

 

Is Sky in town? If so tell that fucker to consider.....

 

Nothing wrong with bringing a natural bigdrink.gif

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You might be a week too soon. Two days ago, there was NOTHING formed. Carl's Berg was a series of frozen drips and Rambles was super thin. Only thing in was Isodore Gully (WI2). I think we need a coupla sunny days after this snow to set up some melt/freeze action bigdrink.gif

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Judging on resent weather conditions history trend… not enough time to form well…I will wait for more consistent cold conditions to form more then a icicles/daggers

Yeah I can’t wait either

 

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i drove up to marble last monday and there was a lot of water running. it will take more then a couple of days to freeze all this run off. some mixed alpine might be in though. i think it's raining quite high up and by tomorrow the freezing level is supposed to drop down to 1000 and to 500 on sat. bring your warthogs and get ready to buy new picks.

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Szyjakowski said:

go rock climbing you wanks! HCL.gifmushsmile.giffruit.gifyellowsleep.gif

 

Yeah...no shit...fuck ice...its about sunny rock...

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guys, let me repeat a comment i've made before, regarding early season ice at marble canyon. it's wonderful to get on it as soon as possible, BUT there is a sordid history in the last few years of people top-roping really "young" ice, bashing the hell out of the immature formations, and setting back the solidification of the features by weeks - sometimes (as in the really lean winter last year) fucking it up for everyone for the rest of the winter. use a little self-discipline and patience: early season, if the ice is poor enough (or if you're not tuned enough) to lead the climb, leave it alone. or, if you absolutely MUST top rope, if your mother is going to disown you if you don't climb SOMETHING on the weekend, do so with utmost delicacy.

 

even once the routes are fully "in", develop (and encourage in others) the habits of climbing "lightly" when you top-rope. you're on a frigging TR; you can't get hurt; this is precisely the time to work at developing technique that'll allow you to lead securely and confidently - and that certainly does NOT include climbing (as the late, great john lauchan used to put it) like a mastodon!

 

and push yourself to CLIMB the routes rather than top roping them. yup, way more scary, way more serious, far pumpier, much slower. but you'll find over time that people who get sucked into the TR'ing mentality just don't go very far with their climbing development. they might "get up" a bunch of single-pitch ice routes, but they don't really know how to "climb" ice. so they live in a world of self-delusion - and THAT is the greatest enemy there is to a long and happy career (not to mention survival) as a climber...

 

marble canyon is a "limited resource", and all of us who spend time there every winter owe it to each other to think a little more broadly than just of our own pleasure in that specific moment when we are there.

 

there endeth my annual sermon...

bring on the cold!

cheers,

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well put Don. i would like to add a couple of points. don't drop a rope for tr unless you 100% know that there isn't a party LEADING (next time anyone drops a rope on my head again i will kill the fucker in cold blood, drag his body onto galeon pole and leave it as a warning for the next generation madgo_ron.gif)

second point- leave your fucking dog at home. dogs are cool, but not at the ice climbing area.

third- if you have a tr up and someone wants to lead your line- sorry- you must yeld. this is standard practice, so don't get you fucking panties bunched up in a wad. just move your rope to the side and watch, maybe you'll learn something

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bigdrink.gifthumbs_up.gif

 

[begin rant] Yeah dammit...and don't top-rope the upper pitches of IC BC, or the lower pitch for that matter! As far as I'm concerned this is a multi-pitch route, and top roping any of it just thwarts aspiring LEADERS CLIMBERS. Not to mention that it creates a dangerous situation of falling ice, and chews up the climbs. The last few times I have been to IC BC, I have led up the first pitch exited about finishing the climb to find people who walked around to set up top-ropes on the upper pitches, then started sending ice down on my partner while he was trying to second the pitch. These climbers were part of large clubs who had top-ropes slung on every available climb. This is total bullshit.

 

The Deeping wall and other climbs I don't have a problem with, because they are ideal for top-roping. Just be gentle, hacking the ice is not only a waste of energy, but shows you don't give a shit about fellow ice climbers. [end rant]

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1st ice pitch i ever did i lead. it was out at snoq pass. so sack it up. you learn to top rope real good, then you will be a real good top roper.

 

 

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Be nice and offer to belay experienced partners so you can follow??????? Just a suggestion....

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Knowbody said we newbies shouldn't set up top ropes; just that we should be carefull where and how we set up and climb on top ropes. I'm not a very good ice climber but i'm good enough to know when my partner is unnessesarily beating the shit out of the ice, and i'll let em know to.

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cracked said:

If nobody is allowed to toprope, how are newbies such as myself supposed to learn anything?

No one said you can't toprope, they're just saying to think about how setting up a TR may affect the ice, other climbers and yourself. Especially in popular areas like Marble Canyon.

 

My advice to new ice climbers.... find a partner who leads, and follow them up everything you can. Your technique will improve much faster than it will from endless toproping.

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Exactly, go lead some WI2 that you could never fall off, and work your way up. If you can't top rope without pulling down half of the climb, you shouldn't be doing it.

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cracked said:

If nobody is allowed to toprope, how are newbies such as myself supposed to learn anything?

 

Second the pitch. You'll learn more that way. (i.e. removing screws, watching someone lead, etc.)

 

Also, no one is saying that you can't top rope, they're just saying that if you do be considerate of others: be gentle on the ice, don't create hazards for others (i.e. top-ropping a second pitch), and share the route (i.e. move your top rope to the side when someone wants to lead the climb)

 

Edit: Damn, you guys are quick with the responses today. This post is about 4 posts behind the times. All my points have already been said.

Edited by Paco

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Paco said:

cracked said:

If nobody is allowed to toprope, how are newbies such as myself supposed to learn anything?

 

Second the pitch. You'll learn more that way. (i.e. removing screws, watching someone lead, etc.)

 

Also, no one is saying that you can't top rope, they're just saying that if you do be considerate of others: be gentle on the ice, don't create hazards for others (i.e. top-ropping a second pitch), and share the route (i.e. move your top rope to the side when someone wants to lead the climb)

 

Edit: Damn, you guys are quick with the responses today. This post is about 4 posts behind the times. All my points have already been said.

 

Slow poke...throw your dial up modem in the the trashcan!! yellaf.gif

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cracked said:

If nobody is allowed to toprope, how are newbies such as myself supposed to learn anything?

by paying for motel, beer and pizza for more experienced compadre. like old skool.... bigdrink.gif

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hey, i top-rope too. great way to climb things you fear you'd kill yourself on otherwise. as others have said, it's not about TR'ing or not TR'ing, it's about where, when, and the effects on others. and yourself...

cheers,

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