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Paco

first ascent Ice on Shuksan

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On Saturday November 8th JayB and I climbed a 5 pitch mainly ice line on Mt. Shuksan between the Upper Curtis Glacier and the Sulphide Glacier. The route is approximately 200 meters left of Hells Highway.

 

P1: Climb corners and ramps on rock left of the overhanging ice for 60m to access the ice above. 5.??

 

P2: Traverse right 5m onto the ice and then climb for 60m. WI3+

 

P3-P4: Climb ice for two 60m pitches. WI2

 

P5: Climb glacial ice and neve for 60m to top out on the Sulphide. AI2

 

I have not found any information about this line from talking to people, or from Fred’s guide, or from Alex and Jason’s new ice guide. Does anyone have any information about the line that JayB and I climbed (i.e. name, rating, previous ascents)?

 

If it doesn’t already have a name, I propose calling it “Satan’s Sidewalk.”

 

Satan’s Sidewalk WI3+ 5.?? 250m

 

Notes:

- If the bottom pitch comes in it would probably be an awesome WI4 or 5 pitch.

- The views from the climb are absolutely beautiful. The whole time you have Mt. Baker behind you and a very crevassed Upper Curtis Glacier below you.

 

Go get it boys. Whack ‘em tools. You want ice; get this before the snow comes. Someone else climb it and tell me what you would rate the first pitch. I haven’t climbed much rock in crampons so I don’t have a feel for the rating. The first pitch was the crux of the route, though.

 

Pictures are posted in the gallery.

 

Picture 1: The Route

Picture 2: Traverse

Picture 3: Scary belay

Picture 4: JayB climbing ice.

Picture 5: Another pic of JayB climbing ice.

 

A Trip Report might follow, as there were some good moments like climbing the last pitches in the dark by headlamp and topping out to a beautiful moon and clear sky.

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Paco,

 

Nice job, but please edit the URL address on Picture #5. It appears to have a double "http" in it, and I can't get it to stay up long enuff to edit it meself.

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purty looking route

 

this thing is to right of the Hourglass, as seen in photo p. 66 Beckey, is directly under the g in Glass as shown on the photo?

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Paco, I am duly impressed. This climb is beautiful and from the pictures and your description I think it should become a late Fall or early Winter classic.

 

Do you think that in mid-Winter there will be too much snow?

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