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wind_river51

good routes after washington and ellinor

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last summer i climbed mt rose, mt ellinor, and mt washington- are there any other good routes i can do without protection before the snow comes, was thinking the south brother- any ideas?

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Mt. Jupiter (NE of Brothers) has a trail all the way to the top. It's a long way I hear (I haven't done the climb but want to sometime), but totally doable in a day. Summit is 5,700 ft. Trail goes up the length of the East Ridge. Mabye something like 10 miles one way.

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Mt Jupiter is nice. Also check out Mt Townsend for a trail to the top. Mt Stone is a good rock scramble. You might also check out another route or variation on Mt Washington. All are one-day climbs with no technical difficulties this time of year. Hurry before the snow blocks easy access.

 

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wind_river51 said:

last summer i climbed mt rose, mt ellinor, and mt washington- are there any other good routes i can do without protection before the snow comes, was thinking the south brother- any ideas?

 

There is no end to the possibilities. If you're looking for a single day climb in Staircase/Hamma Hamma area--somewhat in the Mt. Washington class, you should try Mt. Stone. It's longer but well worth the effort and you'll have spectacular views on a clear day. The final pitch becomes obvious as you get right to the base of the summit block. The Hamma Hamma road to Putvin should be open for several weeks. thumbs_up.gif

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Raoul said:

You might also check out another route or variation on Mt Washington...

 

Yeah that: If you like Mt. Washington area and already did the dog route from above Lk. Cushman, Northeast Ridge may be a go now... depending on route finding. Call it a day-long off-trail romp and class three scramble. It's a great hike, but no trail... notably, basically need to get off the hill before dark or bivy.

 

Detailed as "Route 5" in CG to the Oly Mtns; Grade I, Class 3. FA 1964...

 

Recall from running the Northeast Ridge, class 4 choss avoidable by not bearing over to intercept the East Ridge too soon-- stay with the Northeast Ridge until compelled to join the East Ridge to summit. (Then up and around Washington's nose to the summit.)

 

Notable for the return: if visibility wanes, take care to resist tendency to bear slightly off to the North which could turn into major off-route descent into the maw of wild animals...

 

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Flying_Ned said:

There is no end to the possibilities. If you're looking for a single day climb in Staircase/Hamma Hamma area--somewhat in the Mt. Washington class, you should try Mt. Stone...

 

Second that... IMO Stone will be far better next bet in South Olys than alternate route on Wash...

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That depends on what you are looking for, Crux. If your goal is to climb new mountains, I'd go for a new peak rather than a second route on one you've already climb. However, I've been up Stone and I'd say that the E. Face or SE Bowl or whatever you want to call it on Washington is much more fun than Stone - for the amount of effort involved.

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I like Mt. Stone. I've done it a bunch for training, and its always a great outing. Jupiter is a good hike, but really just a hike (no routefinding or scrambling, really). Tromping around in the Constance area is also pretty cool. Some amazing scenery and lots of goats (if you're into that sorta thing smileysex5.gif ). Snow up there now is way better than scree running. Washington's routefinding has thus far eluded my 2 early season attempts, though the short drive makes it more attractive. Good luck.

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Constance is WAY cool, but it is a bigger hike and perhaps more of a mountain climb than the next thing to try after climbing Washington and Ellinor by the standard routes.

 

Rollo: try this thread for my description of the E. Face route on Washington. It is, in my opinion, a "classic."

 

old thread

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If you decide to go up Mount Stone via the Putvin Trail, a fun way out is to drop over to Scout lake and then out via Lena lakes trail. Then you just need a ride back up to the Putvin trailhead. Look for the yellow nalgene bottle I lost on the east side of Mt. Stone where my brother and I slid down to the little lake visible from the summit just south of Scout Lake. Finders keepers. snaf.gif

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Thanks Matt. I'll be sure to take your description on my next attempt. The oly guide's charcoal renderings resulted in me thinking I had the route figured out, and then cliffing out atop a seldom traveled couloir. So it goes.

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mattp said:

That depends on what you are looking for, Crux. If your goal is to climb new mountains, I'd go for a new peak rather than a second route on one you've already climb. However, I've been up Stone and I'd say that the E. Face or SE Bowl or whatever you want to call it on Washington is much more fun than Stone - for the amount of effort involved.

 

I concur, bagging another peak is a goal to consider, as is the fun factor. Also, between my experiences on Stone and Washington, I too have had more fun on Washington.

 

In response to the previous suggestion that a second, alternative route on Washington may be good experience after Rose, Elinore, and Washington from the SE, my first thought was of Washington NE Ridge-- definitely a choice to consider for a second ascent of Washington.

 

However, upon recollection that my idea of fun included shwacking by compass and enduring an unplanned bivy in the rain, I'm now compelled to say a first trip up Stone is better choice for a person plausibly not yet as diseased as myself.

 

BTW: To be clear about Washington NE route, I started from Jefferson Creek road, near branch at vicinity of 47-32.58 N by 123-13.49 W From car, ascended SW by easy shwacking to broad ridge crest, continued SW over point 4457' and followed meandering series of traverses and scrambles that eventually topped on the "nose." Chose to retreat N down from the tip of nose to reach traverse SW to base of George's chin. On summit, observed dust devils and updrafts, premonition of rain to follow. Nice sunset, then it poured.

 

 

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Here are some more you could try this year or maybe next year if it snowing there now.

 

In the Quilcene area: Mt. Buckhorn north of Marmot Pass.

 

In the Dungeness area: Baldy, Tyler Peak, Petunia Peak, Graywolf, Fricaba

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Lazyboy said:

Here are some more you could try this year or maybe next year if it snowing there now.

 

In the Quilcene area: Mt. Buckhorn north of Marmot Pass.

 

In the Dungeness area: Baldy, Tyler Peak, Petunia Peak, Graywolf, Fricaba

 

Did Fricaba by moonlight in early November several years ago. Pretty mellow climb but that was a beautiful experience.

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nolnar said: Did Fricaba by moonlight in early November several years ago. Pretty mellow climb but that was a beautiful experience.

Sounds like a nice trip. Did you go up Milk Creek from the Dungeness side or did you go up from Royal Basin?

 

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Another good climb is Pershing up the Hamma Hamma valley. Great views of the backside of Washington, some nice short 3rd/4th class rock scrambles and a fun, thin ridge walk to the summit make for a great day's outing. The route up through the trees has been cut and cleared somewhat and also flagged, making route finding up through the jungle a lot easier than it used to. Book says 8 hours up, which was accurate before the trail work. Now it's more like 6.5 hours for an average Joe like me.

 

Don't forget some other great full day Oly bushwacks in that area like Lightening and Lincoln.

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