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bigwalling

Green Dragon Beta

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I want to try this route solo soon. Anybody got any beta on it. Gear list? Also anybody done the golden arch or chicken mcnuggets on the upper wall?

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Awesome route, It goes clean, with micro nuts, hooks, cam hooks and a standard free climbing rack up to a #4 camalot. The second pitch corner is GREEEEAAAT (first time I used cam hooks). As I recall, one of the last pitches was the most challenging, I had to move in and out of my aiders, some of the placements on that pitch were interesting.

Trip report when you get back, please!

matt

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Few big cams & HB Offsets in particular. Hammer to remove common booty. Tradition is for soloist climbers to leave a film canister with some swag for the next party(w/ matches).

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Some of the cracks can be wet even after a few days of sun. You might want to consider that when deciding on attire. As far as booty goes I would leave fixed pins fixed. Green Dragon has many section s of free climbing and several people have worked on freeing parts of the remaining aid sections. On several occasions climbers have returned for free attempts only to find critical pins removed.

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As I remember the coner pitch (2nd pitch) can be quite slimy and wet......I recall being saturated to the bone, perhaps bring rain gear for that pitch and then toss you rain gear back to the bottom? Or just wait untill the whole route is dry.....a novel idea, but probably worth the wait.

Have fun.

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The fixed pins on Green Drag-on are not considered booty (some are cracking anyway), leave them be. Second pitch is very slimy when wet. However, you can jump over to Town Crier if you are sick of getting covered in liquid moss. Remember to leave some shake at the top of the third pitch. It will protected from the elements by a large roof.

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Those of us in the know call it the "Lime Lizard". It parallels another excellent route called the "Village Whiner".

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quote:

Originally posted by DCramer:
As far as booty goes I would leave fixed pins fixed. Green Dragon has many section s of free climbing and several people have worked on freeing parts of the remaining aid sections. On several occasions climbers have returned for free attempts only to find critical pins removed.

what the fuck? you tweakers are going to slam in bolts when the pins break anyway. don't o.d. your pins and don't fucking tell me what to take and what to leave, when to stay and when to go. booty is booty is booty but recovery is a slow and unnecessary process.

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quote:

Originally posted by scorpion:

what the fuck? you tweakers are going to slam in bolts when the pins break anyway. don't o.d. your pins and don't fucking tell me what to take and what to leave, when to stay and when to go. booty is booty is booty but recovery is a slow and unnecessary process.

if your worthless ass feels the need to steal some pins, then my worthless ass my feel the need to steal your tires.....

both statments above are assinine, the second was prepared to illustrate this....both acts being selfish and quite improper.....and people who particapte in such acts are vagrants......and should be treated as such......

have fun!!

and the route is quite fun....slime or no slime....the green drag-on is all about the slime.....

[ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: erik ]

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