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Triple C beta needed


Mick_Van_Buskirk

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Want to do the Triple C. When is the best time of year? Based on current snowfall etc. how does it look for the 2nd C being in this season? What type of pro is typically need? How long is each C.? If the 2nd C. doesn't come in this season do you swing out onto the north face to get around? (As noted in the "Alpine Lakes" beta postings).

I'm coming from out of the area and any beta would be appreciated.

Mick Van Buskirk

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Winter/spring is the best time of year for TC, probably best by April. After all the snow this past week the route would likely be very dangerous for a while. As of one month ago the second couloir had white stuff in it, but it was hard to tell if it was ice. If the 2nd couloir is not in you have two options. Continue up the Hidden couloir a bit further, until able to traverse back left and down climb or rappel into the second couloir. I tried this option and couldn't figure it out. A party behind us tried it and were never seen again. I did the north face end-run. This might actually be the most difficult of the three options depending on conditions. I encountered up to 6 pitches of 5.7-5.8 mixed climbing; 3 to gain the face, 3 to gain the 3rd couloir.

My rack consisted of 4 screws, two bugaboos, #1,2,3 angles, Stoppers size 6-12, Camalots size .75-2. The pins were very valuable, particularly the angles, the # 2 cam could have been left at home, the smaller stoppers were used. The screws were not used.

I would watch the weather and have at it when conditions are stable and cold. If you arrive and the route is not in shape you can do NE Couloir on Colchuck Peak, a nice alternative.

[ 03-18-2002: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ]

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