Bronco Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 look here: http://www.wildsnow.com/articles/dynafit_mount_2001/dynafit_mount_2001_1.html What do you guys who've mounted the dynafit bindings think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 Bronco said: look here: http://www.wildsnow.com/articles/dynafit_mount_2001/dynafit_mount_2001_1.html What do you guys who've mounted the dynafit bindings think? I've mounted the Dynafits myself with success. I did not have a template or mounting jig, just made the measurements with the bindings themselves, wasn't too hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted October 21, 2003 Author Share Posted October 21, 2003 Sounds pretty good coming from a guy who asked for advice on how to re-lace his climbing shoes last week, thanks! I've mounted (and re-mounted ) several pairs of bindings on downhill skis, usually with no problems but, was a little wary of these goll-dang-fangled bindings. Looks like a 2-3 beer job to me, possiby 4 if I'm trying to keep an ear on the game. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 Damnit man don't you know those laces go all the way around the shoe and shit? Yeah I guess the moral of the story is that its not really any different from mounting downhill bindings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 templates not to size will be worse than using bindings. use bindings. easy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 Also, many tele skiers like their pins 1-3 cm ahead of chord. Unless you are experienced, I wouldn't mount your own skis. Or at least take your skis to a shop and have them mark the holes with a real template/jig. You need to use the right drill (3.5 or 4.0) bits depending on ski material and tap the holes if there is metal. Also use correct glue! More to it than you might think! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted October 22, 2003 Share Posted October 22, 2003 David_Parker said: Also, many tele skiers like their pins 1-3 cm ahead of chord. Unless you are experienced, I wouldn't mount your own skis. Or at least take your skis to a shop and have them mark the holes with a real template/jig. You need to use the right drill (3.5 or 4.0) bits depending on ski material and tap the holes if there is metal. Also use correct glue! More to it than you might think! Anyone who's performed a modicum of home repair can mount their own teleskis. Even randonee binders. It's not hard - Mark holes with pencil. Double Check. Triple Check. Mark with center punch. Select proper drill bit (binding instructions tell you which to pick - visually double check). Carefully drill hole - use a hand drill if your scared of going to deep. Screw in screws. If your scared of them pulling out - add some glue. I don't use glue, and haven't had problems. On Chord or before is user choice - the only way you'll find the way you like it, is by trying. Judging by the less than stellar jobs some shops turn out you're no better off going to them. Unless you want to sue someone if something goes wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted October 22, 2003 Share Posted October 22, 2003 chord center, forward or back? A question that merits a whole nother thread. but briefly, forward of Chord Center (CC ) makes a ski quicker to initiate but also more squirrely. skis mounted neutral or back of CC make a ski slower to initiate but easier to control at speed or from the back seat. I tried 1/2 cm forward of CC for my downhill boards and 2 cm CC back for some touring skis ( more kick and glide than turns) and am happy. And it is relatively easy to mount your own skis. drink the beer AFTER you have got the holes drilled. Always spin some tape onto your bit as a stopper to prevent poking thru the base. Tapscrew metal top sheet (most skis have binding reinforcement plates now, you should tap most skis) I'd recommend using elmers white school glue or wood glue for your screws. Epoxy is best left for emergency repairs in the field with some steel wool. And if you've just misdrilled your skis plug and fill those holes will wood dowel "plugs" and epoxy, you'll be fine- just be careful not to overlap your new hole pattern, move the bindings into a new position relative to CC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_average Posted October 26, 2003 Share Posted October 26, 2003 What skis do you own, Beck? The downhill boards you referred to, what make and model? Foam or wood core? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted October 27, 2003 Share Posted October 27, 2003 my Yostmark Super Noodle 215s? I went 1/2 CM pins forward of chord center for a little quicker initiation. At bachelor this spring for the tele demos, Nils Larsen had all the Karhu boards mounted way, way back of CC, almost like an old school xc ski orientation 2 to 4 cm back, and everybody was complaining until some of the reps remounted them on the fly to be in a more neutral position on the skis. I haven't had "downhill" boards since 1984, but have mounted plenty of dumpster decks with three pins over the years... K2 has always been a good dumpster ski for me. I also have some 2x4s with tennis shoes mounted 2CM forward of CC for tele festivals... 2x4s definetly benefit from forward of CC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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