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Rainier Guiding under review

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I know that this has been brought up before, this is what was written in the AAC newsletter. It's not too late to respond if you missed the meetings.




How, when and where guided climbing occurs on Mount Rainier is a prominent

subject of the Mount Rainier Commercial Services Plan, which is under review

through November 25. Though the AAC generally does not get involved in guiding

concession issues, the plan affects all climbers—both guided and

non-guided—by the way it intends to allow guided climbing on the mountain.

Reports from the four hearings in Washington state indicate that the voice of

the guided climber is principally being heard, though guided climbers represent

fewer than two in five climbers on the mountain.


The preferred alternative calls for making several routes—the Liberty Ridge,

Sunset Ridge (including Puyallup Glacier), Sunset Amphitheater, Tahoma Glacier

and South Mowich Glacier—“non-commercial†during the summer climbing

season. Additionally, only independent climbers will be allowed on the Emmons

and Kautz routes on Friday and Saturday nights. Capacities on most routes

effectively are limited due to limits on overnight camping/bivying at high

camps. Keeping guided parties off of selected routes and on certain days means

that independent climbers will be more likely to obtain a climbing permit than

if they must compete with guided groups.


The plan also would provide greater competition for those seeking to be guided

on the mountain by providing three concessioner guide services that are allowed

to operate on the mountain, as well as 18 single-trip guiding permits for

independent AMGA/UIAGM certified guides. Currently one guide service is the

exclusive concessioner on the Muir route (which sees the vast majority of use),

while four guide services are allowed four trips each per year on the Emmons

route. Independent guides are not allowed to guide on the mountain.


The draft Commercial Services Plan can be viewed at

http://www.nps.gov/mora/current/CSP.pdf. Comments on the plan need to be

received by November 25, and should be sent by email to

mailto:mora_commercial_services@nps.gov, by fax to 360.569.2170, or by mail to:


CSP Comments

Mount Rainier National Park

Tahoma Woods Star Route

Ashford WA 98304-9751


Note: “ = HCL.gifsnaf.gifGeek_em8.gif

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Figger_Eight said:

Huh...this is the first time I've heard of the AMGA certification being a criteria for getting a guiding permit. thumbs_up.gif

The UIAGM has been pushing for this for a bit now - there are a number of European guides interested in guiding clients in American national parks who until now have been prohibited by law. Interesting to see if it works it's way into other concession agreements.

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