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eternalX

Winter Climbing

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Anybody interested in climbing Rainier sometime in the next couple of months? Preferably somebody who can effectively evaluate avalanche conditions (as I cannot).

 

 

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what, whiteout climbing on snow dust bridges doesn't appeal to you? where's the spirit?

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Nnot paying for someone to guide me up Rainier. If you're interested, great. If not, there's really no need to post.

 

 

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eternalX said:

Nnot paying for someone to guide me up Rainier.

 

 

But you are looking for someone to go up there with you and determine whether or not the avalanche risk is acceptable. Sounds like you're looking for a guide, that's all. wave.gif

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No. I just want to find somebody who is also interested in doing a winter climb of rainier that feels comfortable evaluating avalanche conditions. I'd find it educational. I don't need somebody to tell me what to pack and how to get to the top.

 

 

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I'm interested, but not yet committed to the idea. Last year I was thwarted and I told that same team we'd try it again. You can bet we'll be taking the trade route and wont be setting any speed records.

 

Anyway, yeah, stay in touch.

Dox

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eternalX said:

Anybody interested in climbing Rainier sometime in the next couple of months? Preferably somebody who can effectively evaluate avalanche conditions (as I cannot).

 

I'd strongly recomend you make a concerted effort to learn avalanche forecasting and not rely on an "expert" you met on the internet. I found myself in some akward situations with some "experts" I found on this very website. I'm sure I'm not alone in that regard wazzup.gif

 

It's really not rocket science and there are a few basic avalanche courses you could complete prior to Feb/March which is the most common time to do a winter climb of Rainier. It is possible to perform a pretty accurate analysis of the snowpack without getting into the facceting or metamorphism of the snow particles, just the basics.

 

I talked with one guy who met some (experienced) internet buddies to do Rainier in the winter and had to show them how to self arrest and tie in at the middle of the rope at Camp Muir. hahaha.gif

 

or just hire a certified guide. rolleyes.gif

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Once upon a time, I went up there for a summit attempt over the Thanksgiving weekend and it was fun to be up on the mountain when nobody was there (we were just about the only party at Muir for three nights) but the weather kind of sucked. For the next two months, high winds and high precip will probably be pretty much the dominant forecast and you'll be lucky to get more than a day or two of stable good weather in a row. Good luck!

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Bronco said:

eternalX said:

Anybody interested in climbing Rainier sometime in the next couple of months? Preferably somebody who can effectively evaluate avalanche conditions (as I cannot).

 

I'd strongly recomend you make a concerted effort to learn avalanche forecasting and not rely on an "expert" you met on the internet. I found myself in some akward situations with some "experts" I found on this very website. I'm sure I'm not alone in that regard wazzup.gif

 

It's really not rocket science and there are a few basic avalanche courses you could complete prior to Feb/March which is the most common time to do a winter climb of Rainier. It is possible to perform a pretty accurate analysis of the snowpack without getting into the facceting or metamorphism of the snow particles, just the basics.

 

I plan on taking an avalanche class as well, but it'd be nice to have somebody who also knows a thing or two about snowpack.

 

 

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If the only thing you lack is avy knowledge.....

If you have any backcountry ski buddies that know avy assemsent, teach em' crecasse rescue and take em'.

 

Chances are they already in good shape, know how do deal with Cascade winter storms, know how to self arrest, and are not afraid of steep snow.

 

good luck.

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Hello capitalist!

Give the X a break.

I sometimes make point to climb someone that has more experience so I learn something. So what if X doesn't have avalanche training. With his motivation and enthusiasm, he will meet another climber who maybe willing to teach him.

Thank you for allow commie to post.

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I plan to make some more winter attempts of Rainier as soon as enough snow has fallen. February is usually the best time for winter climbing, because the crevasses are filled in and the days are beginning to get longer.

 

I was lucky last year to summit twice in two weeks on different routes. The key is to be willing to go at a moment's notice. You can't expect to be a weekend climber and get to the top in winter.

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My winter ascent plans have been thwarted by weather each of the past two winters, because I was a weekend climber. This year I will have many more two and three day periods free, weekdays and weekends. Come February I will be watching for windows of good weather. I will hope that some of the parties on this board/this post will be available on short notice if a few good days appear.

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I have not been to the summit in winter yet. After three or four tries, I have resigned myself to calling in sick by cell phone on the way there.

Count me in if you go Norm. I'll do likewise.

Oh yeah, do you know how I put these camprons on my boots? Do we really need them?

Just kidding X. Keep a sense of humor or you will go insane on this site.

bigdrink.gif

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>>I'd strongly recomend you make a concerted effort to learn avalanche forecasting.<<

 

Avy forcasting is a crap-shoot. Best just stay out from under avy chutes.

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jhamaker said:Avy forcasting is a crap-shoot. Best just stay out from under avy chutes.

 

Obviously forecasting is no guarantee that it's going to be safe but, the guy said he wanted to climb Rainier in the winter so to suggest he avoid avalanche chutes and terrain altogether is not very realistic.

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Bug said:

I have not been to the summit in winter yet. After three or four tries, I have resigned myself to calling in sick by cell phone on the way there.

Count me in if you go Norm. I'll do likewise.

Oh yeah, do you know how I put these camprons on my boots? Do we really need them?

Just kidding X. Keep a sense of humor or you will go insane on this site.

bigdrink.gif

 

Duck tape, duh. wink.gif

 

I'm up for it too. Keep me in mind too Norm

 

 

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eternalX said:

Bug said:

I have not been to the summit in winter yet. After three or four tries, I have resigned myself to calling in sick by cell phone on the way there.

Count me in if you go Norm. I'll do likewise.

Oh yeah, do you know how I put these camprons on my boots? Do we really need them?

Just kidding X. Keep a sense of humor or you will go insane on this site.

bigdrink.gif

 

Duck tape, duh. wink.gif

 

I'm up for it too. Keep me in mind too Norm

 

Norm is really fast. Put your joggin shoes on now and find some hills.

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I have exercised only once in the past ten days. I can feel my resting pulse creeping back up. But after today I only have two more shifts this month, so maybe I can make up for it before Halloween.

I do not have any motivation to set speed records on Rainier in the winter. A more measured ascent on a crisp winter morning, no other parties but our own, is what I'm dreaming of. grin.gif

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catbirdseat said:

Barry, if we ever climb Rainier together in Winter, I know who is going to kick most of the steps and it ain't me!

top_left.gif

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for those that have climbed Rainier in winter, what is your favorite route? fastest? easiest? least objective hazard?

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Well I haven't been successful in winter but Gib Ledges is the most popular winter route.

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Trundle said:

for those that have climbed Rainier in winter, what is your favorite route? fastest? easiest? least objective hazard?

 

Gib ledges.

If you go Sunday- Monday during a weather window, you might even get lucky enough to find some steps put in.

And I've found that sleeping in the Muir hut in winter can actually be enjoyable when no one else is up at muir.

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