jefffski Posted October 23, 2003 Share Posted October 23, 2003 Thank you for the tragic news. While i have not been involved in any event so tragic i have had my share of close calls. I have learned much from those instances but am still in learning mode after nearly 15 years of climbing. Each time i read or hear of such news i am reminded of the dangerous game i play and am spurred on to continue learning. "never forget" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted October 23, 2003 Share Posted October 23, 2003 The most dangerous time in any climbers climbing carreer is when they are first starting to lead - especially trad. The increase in numbers of climbers is due in large part to the increase in bolted routes. Once these sport climbers get good, it is natural that some will venture into trad climbing and leading. At this point, they enter a whole new field of expertise that requires a safe and restrained approach. The death of climbers is always worth discussing if for no other reason than to help others take the endeavor more seriously and help prevent their own untimely demise. I always read accident reports to gleen what I can about what did not work. And in the process of discussing an accident, it isn't going to kill anyone if you express normally acceptable respects to the dead and their loved ones in the off chance that a loved one might read the passage. I wish you all a long happy life of climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted October 23, 2003 Share Posted October 23, 2003 Agreed. This is why I like to read Climbing Accidents in North America. There have been those that say "eeewww, why do you want to read that! How morbid". I tell them I read it to keep my head on straight and maintain a healthy respect for the dangers of the sport. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted October 23, 2003 Share Posted October 23, 2003 catbirdseat said:"eeewww, why do you want to read that!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 I heard about this through an email yesterday. My friend was nearby but did not have any details other than the anchor for the belay was behind a flake. This was probably mentioned earlier. Bummer. I sincerely speak for myself and send my regrets to anyone witnessing or family memebers behind the accident. I dont need or require an arrogant stance to hide behind. I have nearly made errors that could have costed me my life a time or two. May their souls rest peacefully. Accidents are what they are- accidents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mtguide Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 An excellent book is "Traditional Lead Climbing:Surviving the Learning Years" by Heidi Pesterfield.Most thorough treatment I've seen of the whole subject,from anchors to partners & psychology.Climbers of all levels could benefit from reading this before leaving the ground. Bug said: The most dangerous time in any climbers climbing carreer is when they are first starting to lead - especially trad. The increase in numbers of climbers is due in large part to the increase in bolted routes. Once these sport climbers get good, it is natural that some will venture into trad climbing and leading. At this point, they enter a whole new field of expertise that requires a safe and restrained approach. The death of climbers is always worth discussing if for no other reason than to help others take the endeavor more seriously and help prevent their own untimely demise. I always read accident reports to gleen what I can about what did not work. And in the process of discussing an accident, it isn't going to kill anyone if you express normally acceptable respects to the dead and their loved ones in the off chance that a loved one might read the passage. I wish you all a long happy life of climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 Another book of interest is Ultrasafe by George B. Allen. The author is an old guide. The artwork is a bit hokey, but there are some good tips in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 ultrasafe through gridbolting: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted November 8, 2003 Share Posted November 8, 2003 RMRU Report Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted November 9, 2003 Share Posted November 9, 2003 It doesn't sound like anchor failure at all. They were roped with no pro in. Sounds like they let their guard down after topping out and slipped on "easy" terrain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 From Rock and Ice.com TWO KILLED WHEN BELAY FAILS On October 19, two climbers died at California's Tahquitz rock when, still roped together, they grounded from near the top of the 600-foot-high crag. Although still under investigation, the accident was the result of a belay-anchor failure. Witnesses reported hearing then seeing rockfall, followed by the falling leader and then the belayer. The climbers were likely on The Step (5.10), a multi-pitch trad route with a loose, nebulous summit section known for difficult route finding. It's an area "where you have to place your own gear and set your own belay anchors. There's no pins or fixed pro," says longtime Tahquitz climber John Long. It's still not known if the leader fell and zippered gear or, unprotected, fell directly onto the belay. That the belay failed is certain, as the belayer was found with his rope still clove-hitched to the pulled belay anchors. Killed in the fall were Kelly Tufo, 32, of Anza, California, and David Kellogg, 41, of San Diego. See our next issue for full details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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