goatboy Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Okay, I'm just curious what sort of conversation this will generate. You know how some routes suck, and you'd never do them again? And you know how some routes are okay, but you'd still not do them again? Well, what are some routes that you folks have done which you'd like to repeat or which you tend to repeat regularly? I'm most interested in ALPINE routes, though whatever sort of routes you'd like to mention are interesting to me as well. Personally, I've done Outer Space about 4 times . . . and Monkey Face Pioneer Route a few times . . . and The Beckey Route on Liberty Bell about 5 times, and the South Arete on South Early Winter Spire about 4 times . . . . just because they're quality routes and fun and very approachable. Seems like I tend to do them when there's out-of-town folks visiting and I want to just go fire a quality route that I know they'll really enjoy. Anyone else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 I did the Tooth, Lundin, and the SE Face of Red Mountain two times each just last summer (six pack! ) and will probably do something similar this next year. Reason: fun, very quick escapes from the city. I've done Dreamer and Outer Space a bunch of times and probably will again. I'd do Forbidden or Triumph again: classic Cascades climbs with relatively easy, BRUSH-FREE approaches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 I would repeat the Exum ridge on the Grand Teton. I would also repeat the Becky Route on Liberty Bell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Good idea for a thread. NW Face of N Ridge on Forbidden has a lot to offer: scenery, fun climbing, and variety. Eldorado, just because of the view, the flowers way up high, and the summit ridge. Mt Anderson (Olmypics): long approach but the area around the pass and the climb are both outstanding. St Helens is always fun on skis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 I rarely repeat alpine climbs in the Cascades because there is so much I want to do...so having done N.Ridge of Stuart three times and south face of Prusik twice is testimony to my opinion of them. i would repeat liberty crack also. [ 03-12-2002: Message edited by: W ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Hmmm, I just made my 6th ascent of Chair Peak in winter, so I suppose that would be on my list. Also Orbit and Outer Space I have done a few times and enjoyed every trip up. The Tooth, South Face of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Some routes I do on a regular basis (quick and easy):W Ridge on LundinS Face of the ToothNE Buttress Chair Some routes I'd do again:NE Ridge on TriumphDirect N Ridge on StuartLiberty CrackW Corner on N Early Winter Spire Some routes I wouldn't do again:Serpentine AreteLittle Mac Spire-S FaceN Ridge of Sperry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Mt. Cruiser. Long hike in/out for a day climb but the pitch to the summit (standard line) was absolutely awesome. Last year I also did for the first time Stuart N. Ridge (bypass) and the West Ridge of Prussik. As excellent as they both were, they just weren't quite as special as that one pitch on Cruiser... I guess I'm a bit wacked to want to repeat one pitch that has a 10mi approach I should also say that climbing in the baking sun, and sitting on the summit looking around to see nothing but a sea of low clouds (thinking to myself lowland suckers!) did have something to do with making that such a great climb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Sorry it's not alpine but...Great Northern Slab!This route is 1 hour from my house, and can be rope soloed in just an hour. Sometimes I have a free Saturday morning, but need to be back home at noon. Cool way to start the day! I haven't yet come across an alpine route I wouldn't repeat. Loose rock? Part of the game! --Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 - Dreamer - Grand Wall - Orbit - W. Ridge Forbidden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 The West Ridge of Pidgeon Spire in the Bugaboos is JUST PLAIN FUN. At class three, with a 5.4 finish, you won't get any points in the hardman collumn, but it is surely one of the best alpine jaunts around. Closer to home, the E. Buttress on South Early Winter Spire is a great route, with a high fun-to-work ratio. Also, Davis Holland with the Lovin' Arms finish at Index Town Wall has got to be one of the best 5.10 outings in the State. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Anderson Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Ignoring single pitch climbs, the routes I have repeated the most are Davis Holland - Lovin Arms Finish (Index), the Grand Wall (Squamish), Zebra-Zion and the Pioneer Route or variations thereof(both at smith). Not quite alpine, but the ease of access combines with the quality of the route to make them big repeaters. D-H's big wall ambiance can't be beat for the price! Especially when you get to look down on the planes flying up the Skykomish Valley. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 Around Highway 542, Mount Ruth and the West Ridge of The North Twin Sister see lots of repeats. They are both excellent, modest day trips that just kind of grow on you. I like to spend time in Darrington and have been drawn back to Dreamer and now Safe Sex (its great!) many times. The approach, ambiance and climbing are worth repeating in spring, then summer, especially fall.... Up at Washington Pass The Southwest Ridge of S Early ("the other arete") is an excellent climb that I always look foward to as is the West Face of North Early and the East Face of Lexington. While I haven't repeated it I look foward to heading back to the Nw Face of Liberty Bell as well. I think all these climbs offer a nice consistent experience from beginning to end with sustained climbing at their respective levels, a pleasant but interesting approach and LOTS! of good memorys. Oh, they also offer a bivouac in the comfort of my bed or truck. Nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 Liberty Crack for sure because its a good one to improve your style and time. South Face Flathead Spire Blodgett Montana because its the best 5.10,IV in the world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 What's up with everyone saying they'd repeat Liberty Crack? I thought it was a good climb, but after the first five pitches the climbing quickly deteriorated and I thought it was a great line but far from the "classic" that it is reputed to be. Once was enough for me, unless I had a partner who was truly desparate to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 quote: Originally posted by mattp: What's up with everyone saying they'd repeat Liberty Crack? I thought it was a good climb, but after the first five pitches the climbing quickly deteriorated and I thought it was a great line but far from the "classic" that it is reputed to be. Once was enough for me, unless I had a partner who was truly desparate to do it. I just had a really good time doing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 This is kind of embarassing, but I like Outer Space so much I've probably done it about...I lost count at about 30 times back in the mid 90's. It's just too cool. Almost got a B.J. up there one time...OH SHIT, I'M "OFF-THREAD"! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithKSchultz Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 Alpine on Snow creek wall? OK. Orbit and OuterSpace were good but I really liked MaryJane Dihedral. It reminded me of the South Face of Flathead. My all time favorite is the combination of routes that take you from the very bottom of the west face of Dragontail to the very top. You can do the ledge traverse if your partner is dragging or the fin if you are cruisin. Either way, you get 2200 ft of climbing in. North Ridge of Stuart is good too. I've never understood the draw to Serpentine Arete. But South face of Prussick is way up there. From there I go back to Montana again and for that tour you'll need more time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegetablebelay Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 Another vote for West Ridge of North Twin Sister. I've done it twice and I'm sure I'll do it again this year - no rope, a little exposure, exhilirating bike ride to the car. Nice trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 ALPINE?Stuart, Lower NE rib variation to the standard couloir, then finished once by the Great Gendarme, and the other by the friction traverse.NF of N Peak of Index. Maybe it was just the company, but what a hoot that was! Both times!Tooth, S Face in winter. What more can i say?Beckey route on LB, teamed up with the NF of Concorde Tower. I always do these (6 times now) as a pair waiting for the LB crowd to clear out. R&D Route, L-worth. 3 times now, plus gave my wife her engagement ring at the top (with a knowing nod to pope, i'm off-topic, too!) Last but not least, Outer Space. At least once or twice a year every year since 1990. But it's getting too greasy now. PS: Almost forgot! Slick Rock outside of McCall, ID. 10 pitches of serene 5.6 crack/slab climbing, and almost nil crowds. And free camping! [ 03-12-2002: Message edited by: sobo ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highclimb Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 another vote for S. face of Prussikanother vote for s. face of tootheast ridge of ingalls! that route rocks our faces off dan! Aidan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceScrewed Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 -Agree: SF Tooth, Chair, Outer Space, N Ridge Stuart, Givler's Crack I'd add: -classic ridge on Sir Donald -E Ridge Bugaboo Spire -NW Face of Higher Cathedral Rock, YVNP -E Face Middle Cathedral Rock, YVNP -E Face El Cap -NW Face Half Dome -After 6, Snake Dike -Yellow Spur (Eldo) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_t Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 South Ridge and SE arete S EarlyS Face PrusikDreamerOuter Space ... and ss long as you're breaking into Colorado, Center Route, Cynical Pinnacle,Casual Route, the Diamond,Bastille Crack, Hair City, West Buttress, Green Spur, Yellow Spur, Wind Ridge, Grand Giraffe, Superslab, Ruper, all Eldo multi-pitch "repeatables",Laps on the Flatirons......... [ 03-12-2002: Message edited by: crazy t ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeadSpace Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 Grand Wall D.H.-L.A. Centerfold some sport route on S. Early aka"Nothing" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 The 3 pitch off width sqeeze chimney on the south side of the Cock in the Sawtooths. Thanks Fred. That's a great name! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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