Crackhead Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 I'm going to J-tree in April! I'd like to know some of the better climbs... a to do list. I lead solid 5.9 trad, but breaking down the 5.10 barrier! I clip bolts in the 5.10 range, but prefer not to be 40 feet out over my last bolt dancing like Elvis. I can also work stuff on top rope to mid 5.11. So... what are your favorite climbs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Crackhead: prefer not to be 40 feet out over my last bolt dancing like Elvisbe prepared to shake like a hound dog..bow..wow All routes at Jtree are basically rad. Just use the guidebook, pick a neat looking area full of monzonite and climb till your tips bleed.... never a bad route at jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elvis Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Easy on me boys... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 For warmin up to breaking that 5.10 barrier, do Bird on a Wire 10A I think. It's one of my favs. Go to Echo Canyon and lap everything there on the days your hands are all mangled. It's all bolted slab but will keep your head straight. Good place to break the 5.10 barrier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Crackhead: Here are some 5.9's that you should not miss: North Overhang, Intersection Rock- wild, airy step around, more intimidating than hard. Room to Shroom, Wonderland of Rocks- a long and scenic walk to get there, then a laser-cut splitter! Wild Wind (and Sail Away), Real Hidden Valley- classic fingers. Sail Away (5.8)- don't miss it. Get there early for both climbs- very popular. Dazed and Confused, Lenticular Dome- a cerebral but not too runout bolt clip up. Do Mental Physics right next to it while you're there- the best 5.7 in the monument. Overseer, Hemingway Buttress- gets steeper as you go, with well-protected crux finger crack through an overhang. Very cool. Touch and Go, Echo Cove- My favorite JT 5.9. Fingers and laybacking to a hand crack finish. Sustained. Invisibility Lessons, Split Rocks (I think that's where it is). Colorado Crack- Jumbo Rocks. A nice hand crack. Have fun finding your way off the top of the formation (it DOES go, just not obvious; welcome to Jtree! ) If you're solid to 5.9 you'll probably be trying some 10a's at least. So the following 10a's are not to be missed and are well-protected:Tax Man- IRS wall. Sustained crack goes from thin fingers all the way to offwidth.Prepackaged- Hemingway Buttress. This one is tight hands for me and feels hard for the grade. but i have huge hands. A great climb.There's another 10a on the far right end of Hemingway-the name escapes me. It climbs up right of a big roof then traverses out over it. Very cool, and not a giveaway 10a.Ball Bearings- Real Hidden Valley. Two pitches. The second one is a little thin on pro at the start but not too bad, and the anchor is good bolts. Nice face climbing connecting discontinuous crack systems on p1.Have a great trip. Note that my bias is trad, I'm sure someone out there who is more of a bolt clipping master can suggest some good bolted routes. I do know that the Echo Rock has some good and popular ones from 5.9-10c, but they are far from "sport" climbs. Heart and Sole (10a) is a great climb- but I found the first clip to be heady- holding a crimp 20 feet above a spanish-sword Yucca. After that you can enjoy the climbing! There's a 5.9 in the same area called Stick to What that is balancy-palming on smooth dishes- and if you blow the second and I think the third clip also you will hit the deck. Anyway, enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yungaburra Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 If you want to try to clip a couple of bolt on a harder but well protected climb, try papawolsy (spelling?) its in hidden valley, its about 10b/c. I worked it a few times, the falls are not bad at all, very safe way to push yourself. I would also recomend room to shroom. one of my favorates, I may be their in april so maby I'll see you. josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Yungaburra: If you want to try to clip a couple of bolt on a harder but well protected climb, try papawolsy (spelling?) its in hidden valley, its about 10b/c. I worked it a few times, the falls are not bad at all, very safe way to push yourself. I would also recomend room to shroom. one of my favorates, I may be their in april so maby I'll see you. josh Papa Woolsey...I second that endorsement, it is very well protected and a good confidence builder. For the opposite effect, go around the corner and climb Buissionier- what has to be the world's hardest 5.7. It's doable, but adjust your mind, it's a major sandbag. Oh yes, also- no trip to JTree is complete without doing Geronimo- the world's coolest 5.7. Climb either Double Cross or Dogleg on Old Woman Rock right above the campground, on the opposite side. Then find the big diving board with the wide crack. Climb up to it in a great position and throw over this with a bomber heel hook. Finally, for the world's most humbling experience, go try Bearded Cabbage. 10c, but that doesn't accurately describe what awaits you on this unique climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Breaking into 5.10? I'm not sure I'd second the recommendation for Bird on a Wire, as it is a multipitch climb with a hard-to-protect crux section -- maybe not the best one to break into 5.10 with. Bird of FIRE, on the other hand, is an outstanding 10A crack, mostly 5.9, with a 10A crux at the top with good gear. The start is bouldery and committing before you get gear, however. Hobbit Roof is a really fun 10B roof that is short -- thus the name -- and well protected at the crux. The bolted slab below the roof is 10d, but you can avoid it altogether by walking around it. The Exorcist is rated 10A but is really a bit harder because it's so polished -- but is super-well protected until the easy section at the top. I second all of "W"'s route selections. Note: they've moved the road through the park to the other side of intersection rock -- so things look a bit different now. Also, for a HARD 5.7, locate "Double Cross" on the Old Woman formation and have a go. Just protect well before getting out off the ledge onto the crack -- many visitors underestimate this section, leading locals to refer to this climb as "Pumpkinhead." Have fun! goatboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Anderson Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Check back issues of Climbing or Rock and Ice (I think R&I) . . . There's an article on the classic .10s of Joshua Tree. It came out just before a trip I took and was fantastic. It also included a good list of sub.10s. Realize that J-tree ratings are stiff, even for old schoool trad places, and the monzonite often requires a mind expanding experience before you realize exactly how weel your shoes can stick to it. As I recall, Bird of Fire was nice, and could probably be TR'd, Solid Gold was nice (bolts, that one). One of hte best single pitch routes there is a right lieaning .10b that I forget the name of, As aI recall, a tough lead for the grade, but the pro is there. TR's would require directionals - It really well known and I think is in Real Hidden Valley - Can some one help me out, here? Finally, its probably stiffer and less protected than what you are looking for [There's a run out to the first bolt (i.e. its hard to see) and the the crux hits you when you're 10 - 15 feet directly left of your last bolt], but if you're feeling really good towards the end of the week, or if you have a rope gun, the end-=all be-all climb at J-tree (imho) is Figure's on a Landscape - It's is one of the finest climbs I have ever been on. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Another good one that is well-protected (fixed) is Loose Lady (Houser Buttress near Real Hidden Valley). Excellent 5.9+ face climbing and a little longer than many one pitchers at Josh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 A couple of my favorites are Illusion Dweller (10a) and Run For Your Life (10a/b) in the Real Hidden Valley. Have fun, you'll have lots of great routes to choose from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Don't forget Walk on the Wild Side (5.7+). Slab-o-rama. Suposidly the longest route at Josh. (3p) Careful on the first pitch, it seemed like you could ground from the 2nd and 3rd clip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Matt Anderson: Check back issues of Climbing or Rock and Ice (I think R&I) . . . There's an article on the classic .10s of Joshua Tree. It came out just before a trip I took and was fantastic. It also included a good list of sub.10s. Realize that J-tree ratings are stiff, even for old schoool trad places, and the monzonite often requires a mind expanding experience before you realize exactly how weel your shoes can stick to it. As I recall, Bird of Fire was nice, and could probably be TR'd, Solid Gold was nice (bolts, that one). One of hte best single pitch routes there is a right lieaning .10b that I forget the name of, As aI recall, a tough lead for the grade, but the pro is there. TR's would require directionals - It really well known and I think is in Real Hidden Valley - Can some one help me out, here? Finally, its probably stiffer and less protected than what you are looking for [There's a run out to the first bolt (i.e. its hard to see) and the the crux hits you when you're 10 - 15 feet directly left of your last bolt], but if you're feeling really good towards the end of the week, or if you have a rope gun, the end-=all be-all climb at J-tree (imho) is Figure's on a Landscape - It's is one of the finest climbs I have ever been on. Matt Matt,You're referring undoubtedly to Illusion Dwellar in real Hidden Valley. That is without doubt one Joshua Tree's best climbs, and is my favorite climb I've done there. Most of it is actually .9 to .10a, but it's that way for every move. The crux is the last move, which might be .10b, but whether it actually is or not, you're pretty tired by then so it certainly feels it.I haven't done Solid Gold but everyone says the runouts on it are thought provoking even where the climbing isn't that tough.Another good .10b lead is Rollerball, in the Outback. The .10b moves are face moves, and protected by a nicely located bolt, and it is strenuous! Then you have to shake out on a nice rest ledge before tackling a very steep overhang split by a bomber hand crack. Classic! Figures is the beauty of Josh, but both leader and follower have to be solid due to the traverse you describe- at least one person I know whipped there and twisted an ankle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by W: Papa Woolsey...I second that endorsement, it is very well protected and a good confidence builder. For the opposite effect, go around the corner and climb Buissionier- what has to be the world's hardest 5.7. It's doable, but adjust your mind, it's a major sandbag. Oh yes, also- no trip to JTree is complete without doing Geronimo- the world's coolest 5.7. Climb either Double Cross or Dogleg on Old Woman Rock right above the campground, on the opposite side. Re: Papa, it's facing into the HV campground loop, about 3/4 of the way around the loop. Well protected, basically steep slab work with a funny little "mount the saddle" move. It's companion climb, Mama Woolsey, is just to the right and at 5.9R is not a sandbag...one commiting move low with a less than perfect piece, then it pros up well. I'd hesitate to call it "r" except that if you blow the move and your piece pulls, you will hit the ground from 12'. Second the opinion on Buissonier...not hard pulling, just awkward. Took me longer to lead that pitch than anything I've seen at that grade. Toejam is an "interesting" 5.7 as well right in the CG. Orphan, at 5.9 is an often overlooked climb. It's on the backside of Old Woman or the Blob, don't remember which, but just right of Double Cross etc. Good crack and tight chimney moves, pros well. Dogleg is alot of fun too. For the .10 stuff, Right Ski track on intersection is fun. Really bouldery crux down low with a fun crack higher, kind of out of character for the area. Might be a little harder than the .10b it's graded, but not much. It protects very well, from decent stances/rests and blowing the crux will not get you hurt if you place intelligently. Blue Nubian is a .10a finger crack in a corner that rarely gets done and is close to the CG, crux protects well with TCUs and nuts, and take a #3.5 and #4 for the anchor. Felt spot-on grade wise, one or two powerful lieback moves through the crux. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr._jay Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 also don't miss out on hemingway wall--many classic lines and a breeze of an approach. the trip out to wonderland is definately worth it too. the first pitch of solid gold is great, especially since its pretty damn intimidating when you're at the bottom looking up. its right next to figures and the crux looks pretty funky, but after watching a party of three take turns doing huge whippers and have an epic struggle i never got a chance myself because it got dark. and i agree with all the talk about illusion dweller--what a great crack, just make sure you have enough daylight to finish. its a pretty exciting crux in the dark and cleaning in the dark is no fun at all, especially when you get near the ground. have a great time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr._jay Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 also don't miss out on hemingway wall--many classic lines and a breeze of an approach. the trip out to wonderland is definately worth it too. the first pitch of solid gold is great, especially since its pretty damn intimidating when you're at the bottom looking up. its right next to figures and the crux looks pretty funky, but after watching a party of three take turns doing huge whippers and have an epic struggle i never got a chance myself because it got dark. and i agree with all the talk about illusion dweller--what a great crack, just make sure you have enough daylight to finish. its a pretty exciting crux in the dark and cleaning in the dark is no fun at all, especially when you get near the ground. you really can't have a bad time at josh unless you try rreally hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Its been a few years ( my mind might be going) but one of the following climbs I think is at the grotto and the other near it. Black President and Dance of the Woo Li Masters are very good climbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Its been a few years ( my mind might be going) but one of the following climbs I think is at the grotto and the other near it. Black President and Dance of the Woo Li Masters are very good climbs. Woo-Li Masters is the left hand 10a in the grotto that I couldn't remember the name...it looked great. Don't know about black president. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 oops...that jars my memory further.. it's not "Dance of the Woo-Li Masters" which is the title of Bridwell's account of his and Mug's climb of the Moose's Tooth in 1981, but the name of the route is Dangling Woo-Li Master Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Damn! We must be getting old. Now I'll even venture an opinion which was that the Woo Li is somewhat burly for for a 10a. My mind seems to remember it at 10d. But I am a bolt pulling wussy. Both of the routes are very good. Definately much better than the average scruffy JT route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Damn! We must be getting old. Now I'll even venture an opinion which was that the Woo Li is somewhat burly for for a 10a. My mind seems to remember it at 10d. But I am a bolt pulling wussy. Both of the routes are very good. Definately much better than the average scruffy JT route. PP-Woo Li is trad, so is all the other routes in the Grotto. The only route I climbed in there was Caught Inside... it was just a year or two ago I was in there. As I remember it, Woo Li was on the left and was 10a (but looked hard for 10a, very steep!), then Book of Dreams, (or Book of whatever it was called) at 10b, on the left in the back, then straight in the back/center was a .10d flaring chimney/corner/thin crack that looked like PG/R protection. You know those typical Josh climbs where the crack doesn't quite reach the ground? Both of the latter two are like that. Caught inside is not one crack, but is climbing up cat-scratch-like discontinuous cracks, and very steep early on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 I know it's trad. I was suggesting it probably seemed harder than 10a because I am usually considered a bolt pulling wussy on this site. Making a little joke! Actually without any joking around it is harder than 10a. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: I know it's trad. I was suggesting it probably seemed harder than 10a because I am usually considered a bolt pulling wussy on this site. Making a little joke! Actually without any joking around it is harder than 10a. Sorry I misunderstood, it read differently to me- as in, "it seemed harder because I don't climb bolted climbs very well", as opposed to the actual meaning which is that you are primarily a bolt/sport guy. There was another team on it and it did look burly for the grade. Everything in there I think was full-value for the grades... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by miker:Has anyone done Figures on a Landscape? It's out on North Astro Dome near Solid Gold, 10c-d, 3 pitches. miker[/QB] Great route - I started to write some beta, but realized that in the 20 years since I did the route, details have gotten a little fuzzy. Grab the lead on the 1st pitch if you want the best pitch. [ 03-12-2002: Message edited by: russ ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 LOL Actually I rarely climb sport routes, but that has more to do with not really liking most WA sport areas than any dislike of bolts. I think someone mentioned Illusion Dweller. That climb is unbelievably overrated! BUT it can often be climbable on those cold windy days when everything else is gettign blasted. So my advice would to safe it for one of those days. A bit harder yet a very good pitch is the first pitch of Desert Song. It is just to the left of Illusion Dweller. It is 10c/d I think. [ 03-12-2002: Message edited by: Peter Puget ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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