glassgowkiss Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 hey, i did buy a guide for skaha. climbed there before a couple of times. i just noticed the author is using YDS, you know 5.somethin (fine) and for sport routes french scale. now, maybe i just had bad luck, but the routes were WAAAAY off as far as french scale. i mean "blade runner" 7a+ , wings od desire 6c+????? , wings of steel 7b+??. i mean 7b+ at any decent crag in europe is no-giveaway. if that route is 7b+, churning at smith would be 8a or 8a+! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 Hmm. I thought you recently argued in another thread on the subject that ratings really don't matter and especially the soft ones in Canada... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrambler Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 glassgowkiss said: hey, i did buy a guide for skaha. climbed there before a couple of times. i just noticed the author is using YDS, you know 5.somethin (fine) and for sport routes french scale. now, maybe i just had bad luck, but the routes were WAAAAY off as far as french scale. i mean "blade runner" 7a+ , wings od desire 6c+????? , wings of steel 7b+??. i mean 7b+ at any decent crag in europe is no-giveaway. if that route is 7b+, churning at smith would be 8a or 8a+! I don't know nuthin about french grades so this might be off topic. Howie Richardson's Skaha Rockclimbs (2003) has sport & trad routes listed in YDS, 'cept he calls it Yosemite Dumbass System. I guess he recognizes the limitations of a grading system. He has Blade Runner listed as 5.12a, fer instance. Richardson's previous edition had French for sport and +/- for gear routes. Richardson says: Grades will never be anything more than a rough subjective indicator of difficulty. and this: My intent is to try and avoid sand-bagging a first time visitor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 is that French system still in the new edition of the richardson guide that came out a few months back? French grades don't mean much to me, nor I think many of the people who climb at Skaha. But if they are going to be in the book they should at least be accurate. You are probably one of few local people with the international experience to make the call of accurate french grades in that book. Are you going to set Howie straight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrambler Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 (edited) Why isn't this n te rock climbing thread? FYI, Wings of Desire is listed in Richardson (2003) as 5.11b & Wings of Steel as 5.12d. Looks like 5.11b is between French 6C, 6C+. 12d is approximately equivalent to 7C so it looks like the rating on Wings of Steel was listed wrong(?) in your guide. I don't climb at that level but seems that Richardson gave a reasonable answer to why he listed the ratings as given. Edited October 9, 2003 by scrambler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 scrambler said: Why isn't this n te rock climbing thread? FYI, Wings of Desire is listed in Richardson (2003) as 5.11b & Wings of Steel as 5.12d. Looks like 5.11b is between French 6C, 6C+. 12b is approximately equivalent to 7C so it looks like the rating on Wings of Steel was listed wrong(?) in your guide. Ummm...French 7b equates to 12b...7c is 12d...and as bob is saying 7b+ in buoux or or ceuse is bitchass hard.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted October 10, 2003 Author Share Posted October 10, 2003 fucking a 7b+ is hard! and the reason i didn't put this topic into rock climbing "forskin" (i mean forum) is because it is spray. so anyway, the points i am making are: too many places with soft grades don't use rating system that you don't know churning in the wake= about 7c, darkness hard 7b+/7c, rude boys= 8a, chain reaction, go dog go about 7b (hard) time's up 7c+. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted October 10, 2003 Share Posted October 10, 2003 huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted October 10, 2003 Author Share Posted October 10, 2003 what's up donkey? didn't catch that one? why don't you keep shpunking some shelaq syrup load onto your keyboard? btw, maybe he used french canadian rating system in the guidebook? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted October 10, 2003 Share Posted October 10, 2003 nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted October 10, 2003 Share Posted October 10, 2003 i am going there tomorrow... slowly mind you.. as we are fly fishing all the way there. i will let you know what i think of the ratings. i have climbed in europe, so i guess i have some understandings of the ratings, though i will not be able to fill you in on the 8+ categories. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted October 10, 2003 Share Posted October 10, 2003 have fun fence- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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