gapertimmy Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 We're (me, becky, carolyn, porno puppies) are leaving bend this evening and will be getting in pretty late. Who else is going to be around Friday for craggin? I'm hoping (like always) to do some easier stuff that has walk offs as Becky don't like da rappel. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 castle rox icicle butt lower 8 mile peshastin snow crick see ya tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gapertimmy Posted October 9, 2003 Author Share Posted October 9, 2003 thanks drul! i'm gonna let chinook into your tent so you 2 can snuggle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle_Tricky Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 I'll be headed up there from Hood River shortly. Anyone who wants to climb this afternoon/tomorrow look for white trickymobile van with superstylie spoiler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 tim look for x/y crags right off the road across from 8 mile campground. great beginner cracks with east walk off and nice bolt anchors. also some shite in madmeadows. treee route on lower 8 mile is good too!!!! take your shoes to the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 gapertimmy said: I'm hoping (like always) to do some easier stuff that has walk offs as Becky don't like da rappel. Any suggestions? R&D (4 pitches of mid fifth) has an easy walk off. Recomend the cocaine connection alternate start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gapertimmy Posted October 9, 2003 Author Share Posted October 9, 2003 what about puppy friendly crags? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 xy crag!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! or clam shell cave or mad meadows just do what i say and it will all work out!! and i read your anti insurance comment smart guy!! we are watching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gapertimmy Posted October 9, 2003 Author Share Posted October 9, 2003 erik, you are so "kind" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 For truly moderate multipitch routes and a simple approach/descent Castle Rock has the finest and most scenic climbs in Leavenworth. Hands down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 You in the pickup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gapertimmy Posted October 9, 2003 Author Share Posted October 9, 2003 Yep, the pickup is returning to the icicle to get its windows broken out, again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 gapertimmy said: Yep, the pickup is returning to the icicle to get its windows broken out, again. and we will insure that your experience lives up to your every expectation!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoker Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 I'll be around the 'cicle on Friday. I'll keep an eye out fer yer pups and say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Pine Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 (edited) mattp said: For truly moderate multipitch routes and a simple approach/descent Castle Rock has the finest and most scenic climbs in Leavenworth. Hands down. The South Face of Jello Tower is similar to that stupid sport climb at Duty Dome that everybody loves (cover of guide one version ago), but kicks its ass in so many ways... ...course, it's not a sport climb. ETA: I remembered the name now, Jazzy Document. Edited October 9, 2003 by Al_Pine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 The South Face of Jello Tower (80 feet high; 5.8): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 i thought i read somewhere it was "5.8+" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 mattp said: The South Face of Jello Tower (80 feet high; 5.8): That is actually a fairly dangerous 5.8. A lot of folks have decked from that particular climb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 It could be 5.8+ but ChucK's point was that it is a good steep face climb (though short). And there are megabolts and chains at the top for the sport-type lowering set up. I don't think it is a dangerous climb if you know what you are doing, but I suppose it may be a dangerous climb for one who is relatively new to placing gear or who's belayer is going to stand away from the bottom of the climb and be all casual about it and stuff. E may be right, though, that people deck from it a lot. There is a cruxy move right near the start, and you have to place gear while hanging on your arms, and those gear placements are not 100% straight forward. Above this, there is a stretch where most people run it out on easier ground for a little bit, too. But I don't think it merits an "R" in the guidebook or anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pms Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 sandbagger mattp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 Why is it dangerous??? It takes bomber cams all the way up. Is it actually the route or rock that is dangerous, or the wannabe 5.8 trad leaders who can't place solid gear on an overhanging trad climb yet. Just curious as to your thoughts on this matt... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 ooppps, I should finish reading before I post...sorry. I saw a guy deck off of the bottom of Saber once... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Pine Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 Dru said: i thought i read somewhere it was "5.8+" It's more difficult than Jazzy Document Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 I've known of one person who decked and broke bones on the S face of Jellow Tower. They weren't that great at climbing, but never the less... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 CRASH PADS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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