dkemp Posted October 8, 2003 Share Posted October 8, 2003 This weekend, for the second time in my short leader career, I got to the bolt hangars at the top to find the nut loose. Not the hangar spinning (I've been told that a spinning hangar is okay) but the nut on the bolt turns - totally loose - I thumb-tightened it. I tried to tighten it with whatever I had at hand - I tried my nut cleaning tool but that didnt fit, I tried the open end of a hex but it wasnt quite the right size. I used the bolt in my TR system after backing it up with gear in a nearby crack. This happened at Icicle, Clam Shell Cave - route is Noisy Oyster. Happened at Exit 38 a couple months ago. Do y'all encounter loose bolts often? Perhaps I should carry a nut wrench? It occurs to me that my Metolius brand nut cleaning tool should have a nut wrench built in - maybe I should suggest it to Metolius, eh? If you have a wrench, how tight do ya make it - as tight as you can get it? I dont even own a wrench. Should I report the loose nut to someone? Yeesh, I feel like a newbie with this one. Maybe I should stick to snowclimbing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted October 8, 2003 Share Posted October 8, 2003 hand tighten it and unless you have a wrench forget about it. grivel offers a nut tool with hex holes in it, tho it is metric so most bolts in the us will not tighten well with it.... just hand tighten them with a little extra at the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmberBuxom Posted October 8, 2003 Share Posted October 8, 2003 loose nuts arent a big deal. hand tightening is fine. sounds like you set a yoyo tr after the lead and not being able to see if the nuts are unscrewing is a natural concern. a bit of duct tape will temporarily fix that. question is: who is the ass still placing wedge type anchors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted October 8, 2003 Share Posted October 8, 2003 I carry a multi-tool on my harness when I climb outdoors. It has come in usefull on more than one occasion including the tightening of loose nuts when I get to the hangers and opening that beer when I get back to the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 8, 2003 Share Posted October 8, 2003 AmberBuxom said: question is: who is the ass still placing wedge type anchors? wedge type anchors rock for granite, yo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkemp Posted October 8, 2003 Author Share Posted October 8, 2003 at the risk of sounding really stupid... what is a wedge type anchor? An anchor built from passive gear?? Thanks in advance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted October 8, 2003 Share Posted October 8, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted October 8, 2003 Share Posted October 8, 2003 type of bolt and mounting hardware. the tighter you make the threads the cone of the wedge expands making it tighter in the hole. google it!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 the wedge is the bottom part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmberBuxom Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 Dru said: AmberBuxom said: question is: who is the ass still placing wedge type anchors? wedge type anchors rock for granite, yo. 5 piece bolts can be removed at a later date so the hole can be reused. and they have a lower profile less likely to snag a carabiner gate open. my nizzle. yo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 well if you wanna be all public serviced and all. i thought you were advocating some lame glue-in technology. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 AmberBuxom said: Dru said: AmberBuxom said: question is: who is the ass still placing wedge type anchors? wedge type anchors rock for granite, yo. 5 piece bolts can be removed at a later date so the hole can be reused. and they have a lower profile less likely to snag a carabiner gate open. my nizzle. yo. Lummox, you are wrong. I explained it to you last time you posted the same thing. The tip of a 5-piece bolt is almost impossible to retrieve from the hole and drilling through it sucks. A wedge anchor is not that hard to remove and the hole can be oversized and reused. Wedge anchors work fine in good stone. That said... I do however agree that a 5- piece is still a better choice. In addition to the lower profile "hex", It uses a hardened grade 5 bolt and has way better pull out strength in shitty stone. They are pricier, $1.35ish compared to a wedge at about $.50. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daler Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 Dox, I think a BD stopper size 9 fits most 3/8 nuts and can give you a little more leverage then just turning it with your fingers. Try the sizes and double check what size it is. dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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