AlpinistAndrew Posted October 5, 2003 Share Posted October 5, 2003 So my climbing partner, masternate32, and myself decided to do a day climb of East Wilman. It is in volume two of select climbs, so we figured it must be worthwhile. The approach was nice, not too hard. But there was no snow in the gully up to the ridge. Would it had been snow filled, it would have made the experience nicer. But the rock around the spire and on the spire was very loose and crappy. We still enjoyed the climbing, but we were expecting way more i guess. The summit was neat and so was the last rappel. But descending the gully back to Glacier Basin was hell. Very strenuous and ridiculously loose rock. Rocks were constantly flying. We were lucky to get out of that thing. Nice area, but we were unimpressed with the quality of the rock and the climb. We did find what looked like a TCU (maybe the powercam, it was way in this crack, we tried getting it out, but it was stuck). We found another one near a rappel sling in the gully, this one also did not budge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted October 6, 2003 Share Posted October 6, 2003 There have been numerous trip reports for East Wilmans on this site. I would agree that the best time to do this climb is when there is snow in the gully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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