Szyjakowski Posted March 6, 2002 Share Posted March 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Charlie: Looks like you guys got lucky last weekend, damn it! it's dumpin snow here in eburg so I'm sure the same is true for lworth- Guess winter's not over-ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! Good thing I'm going to mexico next week me so sad...I have to suffer and climb here in the cold...until march 21...then its vegas baby and jtree... Cancun in April... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: Crack of Doom was 5.9 when I first climbed it. The jams are rip-my-arm-off solid. Any one else find the no-hands rest near the top of the crack? Hello Retrosaurus,I would like to follow on that pitch. I can't seem to figure out how to climb it without pulling on the gear. Let me know if you head up there this spring. I could always mention that I am an icicle spyder by some sort of definition to persuade you. I think we met when you free soloed the South face of Jello Tower last summer. I was up there with the balding guy that never stopped chatting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 Flick, Sure. Maybe tomorrow afternoon? E-mail me. Mmmmm. Castle Rock, my favorite boulder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 Retrosaurus, I can't do it this week or next. Perhaps we will have to wait until the following one. I will send an email and take a sick day if need be. Maybe I will invite another local to join us if we can work it out. Can you drive to Index on a weekday too? Looks like good granite when it is dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrench Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 sorry, but i have to plead ignorance. I've only been on castle rock once, and the first move of the 2nd pitch you're describing sounds a hell of a lot like Midway. do both these routes have similar 2nd pitches, or were we on the wrong route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 The openning moves of the 2nd pitches on both routes are similarly committing, although Canary is a little more serious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrench Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 Gracias, Mitch. Didn't think that felt 5.8 -- glad to know ya'll aren't just a bunch of wimps! Not that that was ever in doubt! [ 03-06-2002: Message edited by: wrench ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: Flick,Sure. Maybe tomorrow afternoon? E-mail me.Mmmmm. Castle Rock, my favorite boulder. NO MAN ITS MY FAVORITE BOUDER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by wrench: sorry, but i have to plead ignorance. I've only been on castle rock once, and the first move of the 2nd pitch you're describing sounds a hell of a lot like Midway. do both these routes have similar 2nd pitches, or were we on the wrong route? different places completely...midway off tower and canary of of ledge to face Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 Get your own boulder, Slzyjakoffski. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: Get your own boulder, Slzyjakoffski. Hey Retrosaurus, I think Syzjakowski and you know each other as well. SBD 1st sent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haireball Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 On the subject of grade inflation: Having lived and climbed in Leavenworth since 1980, I can assure you that no one is inflating gradings. The truth is, the climbs are getting harder!!! Consider these true-life examples: 1) Jello Tower, south face: in the 1980-vintage guidebook, rated 5.7. I recall climbing this unroped in my running shoes, and thinking the rating to be fairly accurrate. and yet, a couple of summers ago, I led this same route in sticky scarpa slippers, after sewing it up with stoppers, and backing off to ground at least once to rest. The route had obviously increased at least a couple of number-grades in difficulty!! 2) Canary: this was the first rock-climb I did when I moved here, at the invitation of old-time local Mike Crosswaite, who, in those days,had a pizza place in the building now occuppied by Gustav's. Crosswaite insisted that this classic was the finest route on Castle Rock, worth doing even if it WAS raining that day. He graciously offered to lead the second pitch, warning me that the initial moves were "exposed & tricky". I remember thinking it a good solid 5.8, in raingear and mountain boots. And yet, within the last couple of years, I was sketching the finishing moves of the first pitch. No doubt whatsoever, the climb was definitely harder. 3)Mr. Clean: in October 1981, an old girlfriend whom I shall graciously decline to name returned to Leavenworth to complete the task of dumping me.We took an afternoon at Castle whence I led Mr. Clean (in alpine boots, it was cold), and she responded by launching herself out of Catapult and nearly breaking her arm. Yet last summer, in far more appropriate footwear I was unable to lead Mr. Clean without pulling on two pieces! 4) Cocaine Crack, Icicle Buttress: the first time I led this climb, in 1983, in EBs I complained to my partner that it was a "giveaway 5.10". Last summer, in modern sticky shoes, I fell off following the same pitch. Obviously,the climb had grown MUCH harder over the years. Plainly, all of these climbs are several orders of magnitude harder than they were twenty years ago! I can only presume that such evolution is occurring planetwide. Were I to return to Eldorado Canyon and repeat Bastille Crack (5.6 back in 1972), I'm certain that it would fully merit the 5.8 rating today's guidebook gives it. Twenty years from now, I hope to be able to climb Saber at a 5.10 rating... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 I climbed Canary, Mr Clean, South Face of Jello Tower and Midway and yanked on gear of Doom last summer. I climbed some of them years before... Mr Clean is 5.10a if you ask me. Canary is tough 5.8, South Face of Jello Tower 5.8 but steep not slabby 5.8 and Midway is well the major sandbag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin_page Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Szyjakowski: NO MAN ITS MY FAVORITE BOUDER Hey Spelzoffski, don't you mean boudoir? ANd aint ya bout ta grodyate frum kalluge? Have a great time down south! Oh yeah, what's with that belay station above the roof and between Devil's Delight and Fright. New route, not in the guide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 Maybe the problem is not inflated ratings but inflated waistlines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 Pretty funny Retrosaurus. You might have hit the nail right on the head. <--Too many of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by kevin page: Oh yeah, what's with that belay station above the roof and between Devil's Delight and Fright. New route, not in the guide Satanic Verses. Not so new, just never made the guide book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by kevin page: Hey Spelzoffski, don't you mean boudoir? ANd aint ya bout ta grodyate frum kalluge? Have a great time down south! Oh yeah, what's with that belay station above the roof and between Devil's Delight and Fright. New route, not in the guide I already told you dumbarss its She-a-KOWski beyotch...and after I go to redrocks and jtree Im goonna rest my fingers on the beach in the neat beaches of Cancun... oh yeah I hope I don't forget my (shades as cool is genetic) and btw..that retrowannabe is just a pompouss escaped convict from canada..so don't believe him for anything more than one cents worth... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 My rippling abs now ripple in the slightest breeze. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted March 8, 2002 Share Posted March 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by max: Erik, you're so Zen! yes your mother taught me to be so svelt of hand and light with the tongue in true zen fashion..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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