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EJohnson

Approaching Forbidden West Ridge

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I did NOT climb the WR but did do the ERD which is a fine alternate worth examining.

 

But there was party that had a benighting on it last weekend and climbed it successfully.

 

It appeared to me the best way to access the glacier was to go around to the left and avoid ice that falls on to the slab. Definitely reasonable and doable by nearly anyone attempting it.

 

There are some ice blocks in the "couloir" that are better desribed as ice chockstones.

 

Let me see if I can dig up saturday photo that is of any use...

 

I defninitely think that if you are persisant enough you would be able to climb the variation start left of the "couloir".

 

Other than that I could not tell you any details.

Edited by Cpt.Caveman

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That'd be cool to see that photo cavey. i've been thinking of heading back to do that route sometime in October.

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Photo attached . Sorry I was not interested in photoing the route at the time I passed by. So it may not be of the best use but will give you a general idea.

 

Also I have no idea what the benighted party did. You should check the NCNP Ranger station for a report. Many people leave reports there and some are more detailed than others.

251529-forb.JPG.b4bebe339b8a7e2e745a67031345ad9c.JPG

Edited by Cpt.Caveman

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Thanks for posting the photo that helps. So is the start of the couloir bypass just left of the couloir under the gullys running down from the notch? Beckey lists it at several class 4 pitches. Anyone tried it?

 

What it all comes down to.. is were are going to try it in a day this weekend. I'm just trying to figure if its going to be too much screwing around to get up on the west ridge.

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EJohnson said:

Thanks for posting the photo that helps. So is the start of the couloir bypass just left of the couloir under the gullys running down from the notch? Beckey lists it at several class 4 pitches. Anyone tried it?

 

What it all comes down to.. is were are going to try it in a day this weekend. I'm just trying to figure if its going to be too much screwing around to get up on the west ridge.

 

Forbidden Peak is not an easy descent for most. Either way you choose to logically go - NE ledges descent of downclimbing the WR.

 

The variant start is left of the couloir. I have not done it. My friend Dan Hughes rates it at 5th class but had some mumblings that I recall not being exactly the rating in Beckey's book at 4th class. Since I was not there and have not done this I cannot confirm any of it. There may be an easier way than the way they went.

 

If you just want to climb Forbidden in a day I firmly believe the ERD route is probably the easiest for terrain issues depending on how well you can move over moderate terrain. It does not require a variation start that is less known. I believe the crampons are necessary for about 200 yards only since that is the only time we used them.

 

After talking with people on the route most discover is 8 pitches of rock at about a moderate rating. Most difficulties can be described as if you are in a hurry or in doubt bypass on the right...

 

If you want some details feel free to send message.

 

 

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Here is my info I sent to a friend not going this weekend:

 

Here's the recent info about Forbidden ERD-

 

 

 

The unnamed glacier is busted up. To gain the east ridge you will not need to walk on it though. To gain the west ridge you can climb around and left of the left edge to avoid falling blocks of ice.

 

 

 

If going for the ER then climb up the gulley on the right of the basin just out of the way of the falling ice. There are cairns marking some of the way. There will be water flows in the gulley but it will be away from the glacier ice that seems to fall whenever it wants..

 

 

 

Anyway the gulley ends at a sheet of snow\ice low angle. Put on some crampons (aluminums are fine) and hike about 200 yards up to where the snow ends angling up and right into another short gulley. Ascend the slabs and scree to near the crest and work left up towards the base of the route.

 

 

 

I recommend the NE ledges descent. That means if you choose to do this descent you can leave your packs at the base of the route.

 

 

 

Climb 8 pitches of rock pro to 2 inches 8 long slings or so. When in doubt bypass things on the right.

 

 

 

The east summit is the true summit. Just south of it you will find the first rappell. Make 5 rappels and then sideways climb back to near a gulley below the start of the route. Dont bother ascending the gulley. An easier option and better is to climb the rock just to it's right and up to your packs. Descend your way back home.

 

 

 

Be extra careful about the final rappel(5th) on the descent. I recommend leaving a stopper behind in the crack there. I left one but it could already be gone. Tiny ones should work. Test the anchor when you get there and you will see what I mean. It appeared good for downward pull but not outward...

 

 

 

If you go this is a good time of the year. No snow on the rock.

 

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I did the variant start to the west ridge a couple of seasons ago. The moves getting into the gully seemed fifth class to me, but not difficult. The gully itself is mostly loose, 4th class. You can get pro and there are plenty of established rap stations. We simuled the route up and down. Wear your helmut.

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We did the West Ridge via the rock bypass left of the couloir this past Saturday (10/4). What Highlander described is exactly what we found--a couple loose mid-5th moves in the gully just left of the couloir, then rather dirty 3d/4th to the ridge. Very straightforward. We did the east ledges descent, also pretty straightforward, though I downclimbed the last 3 of the 5 rappels. I thought the scree and sandy slabs from east ridge back to the basin was pretty unpleasant. If I were to go back in late season I think I'd just go back down the west ridge.

 

All this beta may be academic though. There was a message at the trailhead signpost that Cascade River Road was closing at the park boundary today for repairs . It did not say anything about when it would reopen. I'm hoping it's not closed for the season as there's some stuff up there I'd like to look at a little later, but I may be SOL.

 

BTW, if you lost an AMGA certification course book and log on the W ridge a few days ago, PM me if you would like it back.

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