Dru Posted September 24, 2003 Share Posted September 24, 2003 What is the best crack size? Vote!!! and post explaining why your choice is the best and the other ones suck. Note no option for face climbing. Sportos make their own poll. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted September 24, 2003 Share Posted September 24, 2003 Dru, you skinny mofo, what do you mean #2 camalot/cupped hands? #2 camalot is BOMBER hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 24, 2003 Author Share Posted September 24, 2003 no, bomber hands is #1 camalot/#2 friend. does this mean i'm gonna be fingerlocking up kunza where you had to dyno? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted September 24, 2003 Share Posted September 24, 2003 NO, #2 camalot is BOMBER HANDS. You'll probably fall off of Kunza, didn't you say on a different thread that you only lead 10d after 15 years? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted September 24, 2003 Share Posted September 24, 2003 fingerlocks and smaller is best because small nuts and cams are cheeper than big gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 24, 2003 Author Share Posted September 24, 2003 actually i lead 10d after i think it was about 9 years, and i don't know at the moment if i'm up for a 10+ onsight or not. i'm in great shape for some bushwacking and 10- first ascents though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted September 24, 2003 Share Posted September 24, 2003 you just've been given beta so your on-sight is screwed anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 24, 2003 Author Share Posted September 24, 2003 all of cracked's beta is in the guidebook anyway. WATTS IS AID Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted September 24, 2003 Share Posted September 24, 2003 The last 15 feet are the crux. There's a fixed wire right there. A sloper face hold and thin crack-corner-crimps and big stems gets you up to the next bomber finger lock. Yard on the lock, and you're essentially at the anchors. For me the crux was two moves. I had to stretch as far as possible to get that good fingerlock, you might not reach it. And #2 Camalot is STILL BOMBER HANDS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 24, 2003 Author Share Posted September 24, 2003 cracked said: The last 15 feet are the crux. There's a fixed wire right there. A sloper face hold and thin crack-corner-crimps and big stems gets you up to the next bomber finger lock. Yard on the lock, and you're essentially at the anchors. For me the crux was two moves. I had to stretch as far as possible to get that good fingerlock, you might not reach it. And #2 Camalot is STILL BOMBER HANDS! i didnt read any of this beta.... i am still gonna try and onsight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted September 24, 2003 Share Posted September 24, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted September 24, 2003 Share Posted September 24, 2003 A super tight #2 would be bomber hands, but at midrange the cracks a little wide. A #1 size crack is a little tight. I've got one #1.5 Camalot that BD made a couple years back. It rocks for hand-size! Wish I had bought more when they were out. Anyone else use this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 24, 2003 Author Share Posted September 24, 2003 Darin - that size is 2.5 Friend/DMM/HB or #6 Green Metolius. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 24, 2003 Share Posted September 24, 2003 My vote- since it will not let me vote Squeeze Chimbley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 24, 2003 Author Share Posted September 24, 2003 so far hands are the favorite but nothing has a majority the overall distribution is Gaussian around hands - maybe I better get a spreadsheet going and work out the statistics This is cutting edge research - I could get a grant! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted September 25, 2003 Share Posted September 25, 2003 Hands - which, for me is.....drumroll...a #2 Camalot. #1 Camalot sized cracks are off hands/ringjam hell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted September 25, 2003 Share Posted September 25, 2003 Doesn't matter what the poll says; the correct answer is tips! PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 25, 2003 Share Posted September 25, 2003 No no no Peter...its mono and two finger pockets...sheeesh... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted September 25, 2003 Share Posted September 25, 2003 RuMR said: No no no Peter...its mono and two finger pockets...sheeesh... whats her name? but i personally love a healthy thrutch. more crack equals the ability to use more body! much better for us fat people! once i obtain some strength, consider me game for the thinner stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mer Posted September 25, 2003 Share Posted September 25, 2003 Aw, honey when it widens to arm-bar size just turn around and layback the edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted September 25, 2003 Share Posted September 25, 2003 Mer said: Aw, honey when it widens to arm-bar size just turn around and layback the edge. muffin, i hope that misguided comment was not directed at me! layback a face crack!!! tho i think this weekend it is gonna be all fingers and hands for this kid!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted September 25, 2003 Share Posted September 25, 2003 Hands! Because it feels the best. I'm getting to like fingerlocks more than I used to, but still dig them handjams the most. I even like it better than sea kayaking, although that is what I'm doing this weekend. ( Erik) Let's Talk Hand Cracks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted September 25, 2003 Share Posted September 25, 2003 I vote for all of the above - LAYBACK! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted September 25, 2003 Share Posted September 25, 2003 cracked said: You'll probably fall off of Kunza, didn't you say on a different thread that you only lead 10d after 15 years? Once you're allowed into the miracle we call "bars" you'll understand young grasshopper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted September 25, 2003 Share Posted September 25, 2003 cj001f said: cracked said: You'll probably fall off of Kunza, didn't you say on a different thread that you only lead 10d after 15 years? Once you're allowed into the miracle we call "bars" you'll understand young grasshopper. At least I can climb, even if I layback occasionally. Only four more years! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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