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any current beta on DC route?


Monty_Smith

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Any recent beta on the route conditions on DC?

 

I’m looking at taking three climbers up – each are experienced (Mazamas Basic plus about four peaks each), but this will be their first time up something like Rainier, and none of them is especially proficient at crevasse rescue (in case *I* fall in!).

 

What’s the route like this year, and is taking three less-experienced folks up in October just a really, really bad idea?

 

And when to the ladders come down?

 

I did a one-day up-back last year at this time and thought things were fine. Good route-finding, minimal scary crevasse crossings, etc. But with the long, hot summer…

 

Monty

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I one-dayed it weekend before last. no ladders and it was passable and basic, no real trouble. the DC itself was totally dry. above the cleaver, the route angled slightly left and up, then takes a Long traverse over to the emmons before switching back around over the ingraham.

 

boot track was obvious and the route seemed fairly stable, though I think I might have overheard RMI talking about it being their last weekend. the penitentes were sweet.

 

well, in any case, I guess it's a moot point, since the weather's now gone to crap.

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yeah, at least the glaciers were still there, but otherwise cathedral gap and the dc were all sorts of talus and scree. nothing was as loose or as steep as I expected (was my first time on the mtn), but still, not the most aesthetic climb I've ever done.

 

It was fun though

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