Tricouni

[Ced]

Looking for route information on the ridge to the true summit as seen in 103 hikes pg. 66. Ridge would follow the right sky line of what appears in the photo as two small peaks (Not the west summit). Ridge is reached from Tricouni medows. I'm not sure if this is the South Ridge or east ridge. Any info would be great, planning a trip up there this weekend.

Cheers

Ced

[fern]

I don't know what the picture is you refer to.

 

You can reach the south, east and north ridges all as an

easy day trip from Tricouni meadows. You can get quite high

on the logging roads from the south east side (Chance Creek).

 

You can access the S. Ridge by hiking up talus towards a narrow

bushy north facing gully. This gully is very easy but may look

intimidating from below. The south ridge has a big gendarme,

which you can avoid by descending off the S.Ridge and traversing

a basin on the W. Side until you can get on a short W. Spur.

There are smooth slabs here, probably tricky if wet, and a little

loose sandy rock on the spur. 3rd class.

 

I think you get on the East Ridge by scrambling up past a waterfall

into a perched basin. 4th class

 

The north ridge you drop through a narrow col onto a glacier (the

glacier is not on the topo maps), and traverse west and up

scrambly mixed terrain to an obvious shoulder on the ridge.

The ridge is narrow, lichen covered,

and technical. 5.6 or so.

 

You may find an ice axe handy for all the routes.

[jade]

i went backpacking there last summer after two months of dry weather...and still there was A LOT of mud on the trail. The first 2 to 3 km was the worst. It rained at night and dry in the morning. I'm short and it was almost knee deep after a couple nights of rain. So don't forget the gaitors. Beautiful hike.

[Dru]

ced the right skyline you speak of is the south ridge and is class 2 easy peasy as was already mentioned.

[Ced]

Thanks Dru,

Is it easier to get to the N. ridge from the medows side or the east side?

Ced.

[Dru]

according to people that did it like fern and snoboy the north ridge is best reached from the east side

 

i have only done the east ridge and descent by the south ridge

 

i did take this pic of the north ridge though

 

basically you go through the pass east of the east ridge then follow your nose onto the north ridge crest and up

 

 

[snoboy]

Something like this...

 

 

 

[jordop]

It should be noted that the FULL N ridge is a much larger climb, one currently on my to-do list, and perhaps quite nice and worthy. Bruce Kay claims the FA and FWA of the full ridge (solo) in '92 I think. The description in Fairley is presumably only the top bit, but considering it is one hour from Chance/Roe Creek FSR, I would suspect that the full ridge had been done before Kay's ascent. I have approached it and it looks quite impressive.

[babnik]

wooooweee! got some nice turnsup in there!

[jordop]

All turns in the Squa/Chek divide are intoxicated by two-stroke smoke

[snoboy]

jordop said:

It should be noted that the FULL N ridge is a much larger climb, one currently on my to-do list, and perhaps quite nice and worthy.

 

I talked to some one, can't remember who, and they said the lower part of the ridge was not worthy. They had done it.

 

Maybe as a winter route it is good! That is an awesome photo, thanks.

[jordop]

snoboy said:

jordop said:

It should be noted that the FULL N ridge is a much larger climb, one currently on my to-do list, and perhaps quite nice and worthy.

 

I talked to some one, can't remember who, and they said the lower part of the ridge was not worthy. They had done it.

 

Maybe as a winter route it is good! That is an awesome photo, thanks.

 

Guy Edwards did it in winter too, apparently. Prob scruffy. Photo is not mine, es de el Sr. Paul Kubik

[Dru]

the Baumann et al FA of the north ridge was made via the lower portion of the ridge direct from Roe Creek.

 

i heard it sucks to get from Roe Creek to the base unless you like devils club

[jordop]

Dru said:

the Baumann et al FA of the north ridge was made via the lower portion of the ridge direct from Roe Creek.

 

i heard it sucks to get from Roe Creek to the base unless you like devils club

Why then would Kay call his ascent the FA of the full ridge He does: '91 CAJ: "complete north ridge. FA/FWA February 27/28, 1991"

[Dru]

jordop said:

Dru said:

the Baumann et al FA of the north ridge was made via the lower portion of the ridge direct from Roe Creek.

 

i heard it sucks to get from Roe Creek to the base unless you like devils club

Why then would Kay call his ascent the FA of the full ridge He does: '91 CAJ: "complete north ridge. FA/FWA February 27/28, 1991"

 

fairley guide for original baumann asc. describes approaching from west via a "contouring" from the pass to Nw but it looks to me like you would descend to ridge toe in the winter photo from W. as the shelf part way up looks hard to gain directly. i don't know who told me you approached from roe creek. maybe it was guy.

Edited September 15, 2003 by Dru

[murraysovereign]

Did it with the brother-in-law a couple of summers ago. We descended from the col in the winter photo, roughly following the shadow line, until about 1/2 way down, then contoured over to join the ridge on the large shoulder, then went up from there. Pretty straight-forward, fun day out.

[fern]

I went in here again and climbed the E.Ridge last weekend. The Chance Creek FSR is still in good shape for highclearance 4WD access almost to treeline. This access is probably shorter and easier than the access described in Matt Gunn's new scrambles guidebook.