Jump to content

First trad climb


mellsbells

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...
erik said:

an excellent 1st trad lead at smith would be the 1st pitch of spiderman buttress or the short crack to the right of it.

both are like 5.5 or 5.6 but so good.

 

 

the crack to the right of spiderman is an excellent choice. it's short and takes gear well. i've spent the summer trying to get my head back in order to lead after a fall. that crack was a perfect one for me. thumbs_up.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

iain said:

cinnamon slab is the worst climb at smith.

 

This is utter bullshit. Its a great climb for a beginning trad leader. Solid and a great confidence inspirer. Finish it off by doing the second pitch as well. The only down side--and perhaps what Iain is alluding to, is that it is often crowded.

 

Lots of easy climbs nearby.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

The student wall is not terribly crowded if there is not a group over there (easy to see before you go over there). Some people find the grades a bit stiffer than the main area, probably mainly because it is a different kind of climbing. More of a full-body basalt workout than the usual nubbin-pulling slabs. They are short.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lyco..... is a good trad climb. it's a corner crack and will take as much gear as you own. Anchors at the top to rap off of.

 

At smith also consider super slab by the red wall area. It's 3 pitches (5.6). Only downside I can think of for a new leader is the second pitch, though easy (5.0-5.2) is a slab traverse, with minimal placement opportunities. You could always rap after the first pitch though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...