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Special Thanks to Good Samaritans


scot'teryx
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Went climbing up at Clems Holler area yesterday. John and I made our way up to Retardant Rock after an enjoyable climb on "Gun Rack". We found most of Retardant Rock occupied except for a far left bolted 10a slab. I decided to give it a shot even though I don't like slab so much. I got the 7th bolt or so and after a few tries I decided I did not want to fall on this particular climb. He lowered me down and then gave it s shot himself. He made it to the next to the last bolt and then took a short 10 foot fall, followed by screaming and swearing. I lowered him down carefully only to find he was in a ton of pain. There was no compund fracture or blood, so we let him set for awhile and see what happens. Luckily, 2 of the other 4 people climbing next to us were wilderness first reponders, and I had been certified last year as a first responder. I immediately called for SAR, but instead they sent 2 deputy sherrifs with a wheeled litter and met our friend at the trail. After we got the litter up to John we started what became a 3.5 hour descent down to the roadside.

 

We had 4 people on each handle, and belayed him down the rocky and narrow trail.

 

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3 ropes were used and we did about 25 belays. W/O this technique it would have been very difficult and might have sent john down the hill in the litter.

 

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The ambulance was waiting for us once we reached US 2.

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He was taken to Cascade Hospital in 11worth, where it was accessed that he fractured his Talus bone and rotated it 90 degrees. He had to see a bone doctor that evening, so we drove to Providence in Everett and luckily enough an orthoopedic surgeon came in and immediately got him into emergency surgery.

 

Turns out the ankle was his sub speciality and it was going to need a screw. The talus bone is also one of the few bones in the body that can die in a few hours if not taken care of immediately (I was told).

 

John went into surgery at 3am and got out around 7am. I saw him this morning and he was dealing with it okay, considering he just got laid off from his job last month, and has no medical insurance. Not sure what happens for him at this point except he is staying with us for a few days since he has a 5 speed and it was his left foot.

 

Wish him a safe recovery, but he wont be on the foot for another 6-8 weeks I'm told.

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Dude, that sucks. Get well quick, Mr. Mefford.

 

When I was last laid off (many moons ago), I was offered that Cobra Insurance while my severance played out. That would be too bad if John didn't have the same insurance available. Albeit, I don't know what Cobra would cover in the event of a climbing accident.

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Update:

Just spoke to John and the doctor said that he has a 75% chance that the bone will die and he will lose some movement in his foot. Not a good percentage IMO.

 

But then again I had a 50/50 chance I was goinbg to lose my finger when I cut it off, but I beat the odds.

 

Positive vibes for John folks, okay?

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So I forgot to post about the original topic........

The 4 good sam's were Ryan and Marcy from Seattle, and Ben and Tracy from Bremerton.

 

Thanks to Elum and Mike Linde who also helped us with the entire operation

 

Thanks so much guys, we could not have done it w/o you!

 

Chelan County Sherriff's Mitch and Matt were awesome as well, it was a textbook evac and could not have been done any better.

 

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Dave_Schuldt said:

lummox said:

fucked up the belay didya?

 

THIS POST SHOULD BE DELETED!!!! AND THE AVATAR BANNED!!!!

 

Put more diplomatically, I believe this is a valid question. Scotty never said how it happened; however, it is completely his right to not discuss it if he does not want to.

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Scott sorry about the man.. Im sure he will be pullin again.

Sorrier about the shitty attitudes.

This is precisely the type of negative shit that could loose peopleon this site by the droves. I know many good people who are turning off this site. Grow a brain and evolve!

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i ask a simple fucking question and you folks get bent outta shape. fromthe spuds i gleaned this is what the belayer has noted:

1: when he tried it he got gripped.

2: when his partner tried it he fell 'a short 10 foot fall' from a place where 'His foot was maybe 1 foot above the last bolt'.

 

i thinkin that belay werent dynamic if you know what i mean. the belayer coulda reckoned just where the hard parts were and been primed to catch. didya?

this kina shit always makes me sorry for the person hurt and question the competency of the person holding the rope. i done fucked up myself and got a partner hurt from me being too clustered at the belay to reel in more than an armload of rope when he fell. self reflection never hurt nobody. give it a fuckin try.

 

believe me soctteryx. i could say a whole lot more shit about you posting story and pics of your buddy gettin hurt. hellno3d.gif

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Lummox, for once, just SHUT THE FUCK UP. If you want to know what happened, ask, instead of giving the guy shit. Your bullshit assumptions make you an asshole. Why the hell would you give him shit for thanking those who helped him? Yeah, people tend to give Scot'teryx shit, but now is NOT the goddamn time. STFU, it's that simple. madgo_ron.gif

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lummox said:

i ask a simple fucking question and you folks get bent outta shape. fromthe spuds i gleaned this is what the belayer has noted:

1: when he tried it he got gripped.

2: when his partner tried it he fell 'a short 10 foot fall' from a place where 'His foot was maybe 1 foot above the last bolt'.

 

i thinkin that belay werent dynamic if you know what i mean. the belayer coulda reckoned just where the hard parts were and been primed to catch. didya?

this kina shit always makes me sorry for the person hurt and question the competency of the person holding the rope. i done fucked up myself and got a partner hurt from me being too clustered at the belay to reel in more than an armload of rope when he fell. self reflection never hurt nobody. give it a fuckin try.

 

believe me soctteryx. i could say a whole lot more shit about you posting story and pics of your buddy gettin hurt. hellno3d.gif

The problem is the way in which you asked your question and the timing of it totally lacked sensitivity towards someone who just went through an ordeal. There is a time and place for analysis for everything, but the dude is still trying to get over it. Savvy?
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