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Reverso, and auto blocking


skyclimb

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I am wanting to go solo some routes at smiffy tomorrow, and am curious how well the reverso works at auto locking????

Plus what system works best??

I have seen people weight the ends of the rope(top-rope), with a weighted bag, and then hook the reverso in with a locking carabiner?? thumbs_up.gifthumbs_down.gif

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Led_Hed said:

That's the dumbest thing I've ever heard. thumbs_down.gif

I wasn't asking your opinion, your post is about the stupidest fucking thing i have ever heard.....

I was asking for analyitical beta on logistics based on a concept i have seen work many times. Learn to read and then you won't look like such a fuck wave.gif

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I wouldn't do it, simply because it isn't a well accepted method, and hence it hasn't been proven. Plus, it seems like it would take a damn heavy counterweight to pull the ropes through. Plus, if you fall off and want down, you can't go anywhere but up. I have always felt 'if you aren't sure, don't do it' when it comes to things like this. Be safe.

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Though you may have seen people use the Reverso for soloing it was not designed for such. You should avoid using climbing gear in ways other than what is generally considered acceptable by the manufacturer. If you wish to solo, buy a device that has been designed for soloing.

 

Instead of attacking people who are somewhat taken aback by your proposal, you should pay attention to their responses. Ego has probably injured or killed more climbers than anything else.

 

Jason

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Yeah, i was planning on using the system on top ropes at the student wall, and the north point. I wouldn't dream of going fromt he ground up with a system like that. I guess the error was in my post.

For those of you who haven't seen the reverso, it is a basic ATC, bisected with another plate. So you clip in the reverso to you harness, run both top ropes through, and then clip another locking biner' into the bisecting plate. This makes the ATC into a auto locker. Thus, when climbing, and you fall, it locks up. to go again all you need to do it continue upward.

Turns out i obviously bailed on smith today, but am going to go fuck around at skinners butte, and play around with the system. rockband.gif

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Sky, what u missing is the feed factor….it will be a pain in a butt to make the Reverso suitable to lead with. the biggest problem of all of the solo devices is the feed (modified GriGri seems to have a lot less feeding problems but this is a complex issue) unfortunately no mechanical device can do this yet Geek_em8.gif

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For those of you who haven't seen the reverso, it is a basic ATC, bisected with another plate. So you clip in the reverso to you harness, run both top ropes through, and then clip another locking biner' into the bisecting plate. This makes the ATC into a auto locker. Thus, when climbing, and you fall, it locks up. to go again all you need to do it continue upward.

Turns out i obviously bailed on smith today, but am going to go fuck around at skinners butte, and play around with the system. rockband.gif

The trick with the auto locking part of the reverso is that it is designed to be auto locking if both rope ends hang down...(like when youre at the top of a pitch and belaying seconds) I would think if you are rope soloing the mechanics of the reverso or any other auto locking tuber device..(b52 etc) wouldn't function correctly. The minitraxion on the other hand might be just the ticket fot the kind of rope soloing youre talking about.. its the shit for crevasse rescue and bag hauling too. bigdrink.gifsnaf.gif

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As i said, i will not be leading fromt the ground up with the device, but merely using top rope. I will weight the ropes with a light bag, so there is something to keep the lines relatively striaght, and taught. The ropes will then feed through the device smoothly, just as they do when on rap. When a fall occurs, the locking biner get sucked with the rope into the device.

THE DEVICE WAS MADE THIS WAY SO YOU COULD BELAY MULTIPLE PEOPLE AT THE SAME TIME. It is auto-locking. I will test tonight, and get back to you tomorrow on what i find. bigdrink.gif

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Sky-

I think the reverso has to be facing down in order to auto lock, ie: belaying two climbers coming up to you who are following. It seems like it might be hard to get the device to be properly oriented on your harness for TR soloing. But it will be interesting to see how it works after you try it.

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skyclimb said:

As i said, i will not be leading fromt the ground up with the device, but merely using top rope. I will weight the ropes with a light bag, so there is something to keep the lines relatively striaght, and taught. The ropes will then feed through the device smoothly, just as they do when on rap. When a fall occurs, the locking biner get sucked with the rope into the device.

THE DEVICE WAS MADE THIS WAY SO YOU COULD BELAY MULTIPLE PEOPLE AT THE SAME TIME. It is auto-locking. I will test tonight, and get back to you tomorrow on what i find. bigdrink.gif

Ok we'll slow it down a little. The reverso has two clip points, the one that connects to the rope while rappelling & belaying, and a second which you clip to the anchor while belaying a second, leaving the 'biner that is connected to the rope free to auto lock. When I rappel with the device I clip it into my harness through the rope. If you try this orientation with it clipped to your harness it will not auto lock. Then your other option is to clip the exterior loop to yourself and let the rope connecting 'biner to be free. It will autolock in this orientation but it does not feed smoothly. The weight of the line will softly lock the device and you will then manually feed it, if that is what you want....good luck either way mushsmile.gif

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you would have as much luck setting it up on autolock belay mode at the top and climbing up on one strand while pulling down on the other to keep your own rope tight. you wouldnt be able to lower off partway up, must climb to top to descend, due to autolocking

 

i still think the splat potential is big ditto the cluusterfuck potential

 

if you want a device that's much more safe as an auto belay spend the $$ and get a soloist, soloaid or ushba basic.

 

but hey maybe the extra $60-70 is to much to spend on your own safety right confused.gifwave.gif

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Actually the best TR rope solo is the Gibbs and the Petzl Micro-ascender and the CMI one pretty close behind…they all have VERY smooth feed and great stop vs. shear ratio the Ushba on (although I like it) seems to have a problem with stopping a falls and having a higher impact on the rope then previously thought

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Billygoat said:

What about the Yates Rocker?

 

I heard it was almost an exact copy of the Ushba but with a softer cam that grips more slowly allowing for a bit of slippage and thus increasing the force rating (cuts rope at ~8km vs ~5 for the Ushba IIRC)

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i think it would be reasonably safe, but the rope wont feed for shit in auto-bloc mode... you have to yank the shit outta it in auto block mode and that means you are climbing predominantly with one hand (mabe none at times)... why not just free solo? confused.gif or use some prussiks? it will be about as difficult to use a reverso as a prussik i would imagine... smileysex5.gif

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actually, quite a bit has been published about the yates rocker, ryland moore, you may not be reading enough,

 

but a test of Top Rope Solo devices in 2003 by a brit climbing mag showed the yates rocker to be superior device for TRS, and explained in detail why...

 

Yates rocker operates similar to the ushbai,

 

but with less potential for slicing into the rope.

 

and the yates was rated the freest feeding TRS device on the market.

 

when you try them out side by side it is apparant.

 

 

the poster is well recommended to give pause and consider what it is they are really trying to do..?...?...

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