Sphinx Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cluck Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 Another quality pagetop! Excellent..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjd Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 Flukes can be set with one hand. Â If you can place a fluke with one hand, you can certainly place a picket - much more versatile than a fluke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason_Martin Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 I have actually experimented with the knot system on a relatively dry glacier. There was little snow left at the time, but the first butterfly knot -- about a meter from the falling climber -- caught the fall nine out of ten times. Other climbers on the rope team didn't even have to self-arrest. Â With a spare prussik and good knowledge of how to use prussiks, it is not that difficult to extract oneself in this situation. The difficulty comes when a climber has to extract his or her partner. With a solid understanding of crevasse rescue this isn't all that hard either... If you know how to put together a good hauling system, the ability to pass a knot within the system isn't that big of a deal. Of course practice makes perfect. If you play with this system a bit, you might find that you like it. Â As far as the knots getting caught up on things, the difficulty tends to come more in the actual climbing than in a rescue. The worst situation for knots tends to be when there are a lot of penitentes on the glacier. Â I personally don't mind the periodic knot getting caught on the ice. The extra peice of mind that the knots provide are worth it. Â Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 Â just walk around unroped you sissies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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