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bolt placement


erik

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so i can now rage along with allison on bolt placement...

yesterday at our fine eastisde basalt crag we all affectionality now as vantage....i was working my way up a fine little trad climb called cold cut combo.....funny thing is there are bolts on it??!?!?! but thats not the point...so i go clipi the 4th bolt and am getting some serious flame as i continue to miss the clip...ugh!! so i drop rope and prepare for my doom.....

dr jay did a fine job catching me!! but i was still lucky enough to hit the little slab right below the bulge!!!! now my foot hurts really fucking bad and my tailbone feels like it is vibrating this morning.....

now what i am bitching about is as i looked at alot of the climbs at vantage...if you fall from the second bolt you will deck...and sometimes you might hit something else.....

was any of this considered when they rapp bolts these lines????

eiher way my foot really really hurts mad.gif" border="0

i am going back to bed!

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quote:

Originally posted by Recriminator:
Eric think it could be karma ?Blasting sport routes at vantage than getting on one .Mike Massy and Matt kerns put up that route and it never was a trad route.I have done that route and unless there is slack in your system there are no bad falls .

Nice shot, man. Way to punch a guy when he's down. Certainly was a display of class on your part......low class, that is.

I've never done the route, but I just looked it up in Smoot's Falcon guide, and what do you know: the route's got an additional bucket carved into it since Mike/Matt put it up! Just makes me curious about what the hell is going on over there these days. Does anybody think anymore?

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Poor guy...see, guys, you CAN get hurt clipping bolts, even with the Good Doctor on the other end of the rope....! frown.gif" border="0

Ice, Vitamin I, Vitamin C (that's Codeine, my good man), elevation, ass time and the Olympics...and Xrays, maybe. Sorry to hear of your misfortune. At least it's wintertime.

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quote:

Originally posted by Recriminator:
Eric think it could be karma ?Blasting sport routes at vantage than getting on one .Mike Massy and Matt kerns put up that route and it never was a trad route.I have done that route and unless there is slack in your system there are no bad falls .

1st of all i was mostly pisseD cause my foot hurt too bad to go to index on sunday....

1st of all i never blasted sport routes at vantage, all i said was that i thought there is too much development there and that maybe whom ever is removing the hangers(not chopping bolts liket everyone cries about)and the current area develops should slow down and look what they are creating.......

second of all you have to believe in something(karma in this case) for it to be a concern......

3rdly i know who put the route up and i do know people who can lead it tradtional(i want to this year)

4th there was no slack in the rope, if you look at the route and get sucked over the the right holds at the bulge you are targeted right above that mini slab, so when i fell thats what i glanced off of....

and last thing recrim....this morning beofre i came to work i managed a nice 45 minute jog, so other then the superficial pain in my foot i will be okay....so i guess i was just moslty pissed that i missed a day at index

and i still think alot of the bolts out there need to be considered better.......

[ 02-11-2002: Message edited by: erik ]

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Bolts suck. At least when I dont have to rappel from them and they are "supplementing" a nice non flaring good crack. I can stick a cam into crack every few feet if I want most times.

Bummer Erik no need to get hurt. I clip bolts a lot but yes there are issues about bolt placement that suck. I dont know about Vantage enough to make a judgement on the routes located there. There are bad bolts everywhere though. I see them at Index too. Oh well. [chubit]

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Erik I like you and all but people need to take responsibility for themsleves when climbing. If you get hurt, its your fault, not the person who put the route up. Yeah some routes are bolted more inteligently or safer than other routes but blaming the route developer is the same attitude as that person who sued McDonalds when she spilled hot coffee on herself.

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i didnt blame anyone...and you are right it is my fault that my weakass fell......

i am just bitching

but one thing to consider, if you are installing fixed gear then you should be consider as many hazards as possible.......and if oyu notice i didnt say anything specific about the boltng on this route other then it made me think more about it......

i understand risk quite well since it is a major compoenent of my job...

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