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Looking for opinions on belay devices...


Rodchester

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BD ATC is pretty basic, and that's why I like it.

 

For bringing up a second, I prefer a Munter hitch; especially if I think they might have trouble. This is a GREAT knot, and it is stronger (more friction) than an ATC. As long as you keep the strands parallel, you won't have kinking/twisting problems (a smaller diameter rope helps with this, as well).

 

Greg_W (Latin American Diplomat Extraordinaire)

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Beck said:

i'm voting plaquette or stitch, love the modulation of a stitch plate with the spring, talk about a smooth feed and a graduated catch!

 

That's old skool, man!!! Don't you have to also climb in Converse Chuck Taylors while using a stitch plate? yellaf.gif

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i used to have atc's and i burned through 2 or 3 of them, the keeper cable always broke at the device.

 

switched to pyramid and they lastyed a lot longer and had more options for belaying (flip upside down for more catch) and lasted longer

 

still use em for most belaying but reverso for alpine due to autolocking & double belay of seconds.

 

i think the B-52 autolocking mode belay is weird cause you have to clip right into the slot instead of a loop like you can with Reverso. looks like it can offset load the device? unless you clip a biner into both slots....

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Let's keep discussion post here

 

I was playing around with the B-52 today, and may have discovered a bad design flaw that could allow you to drop a second when using the autoblock mode. We are going to investigate further, including some body weight tests, and video/pics if required.

 

Basically the problem is that the braking biner can get stuck above the "bump" on the bottom of the unit, and fail to lock. We were able to reliably duplicate this behaviour with a couple different ropes, and biners, but only while pulling on the rope, ie, not with full weight. There was still enough friction that you would probably be able to stop a person if you were holding the brake end of the rope

 

 

snoboy said:

Opinions? I got a few of those!

 

ATC = thumbs_down.gif

Pryamid = thumbs_up.gif

Revreso = thumbs_up.gifthumbs_down.gif

 

B-52 = thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

 

Having used a Pyramid for years, and a Reverso occasionaly, I recently tried out the B-52 and was so impressed I sold the Pyramid, and will get rid of the Reverso too.

 

It feeds smoother than any device I have tried. It locks up nicely when it is time. It works as an autolock plate on multi pitch. It is lighter than the Reverso.

 

I would even reccomend it to someone who will never use it in autolock mode, something I would never do with the Reverso. It is the all purpose unit!

Edited by snoboy
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